Rotor studs
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,388
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
Rotor studs
So I am putting the rotors back on the hubs and I am concerned the studs aren't seated all the way...
These photos are about the closest I could get considering the angle.
Basically I am using a 1/2-20 nut and a 1/2 flat washer to accomplish this. I can feel the nut bottoming out but am concerned the washer is simply hitting the spline part of the stud.
Does anyone have any advise on ensuring these studs are proprerly seated? Thanks!
These photos are about the closest I could get considering the angle.
Basically I am using a 1/2-20 nut and a 1/2 flat washer to accomplish this. I can feel the nut bottoming out but am concerned the washer is simply hitting the spline part of the stud.
Does anyone have any advise on ensuring these studs are proprerly seated? Thanks!
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,388
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
I just got done with the other hub/rotor... Drawn down the same way and there is still wobble between the two pieces so there is definitely more stud to pull though but thats all this approach is gonna get.
I am always happy to give preference to doing things the right way first... Is this press a tool kit I might be able to rent from the parts store? Cant really buy a big machine for this.
Alternatively, is there a safety issue or something with the wheel trick? I am thinking I will have to used this approach out of pure neccessity.
I am always happy to give preference to doing things the right way first... Is this press a tool kit I might be able to rent from the parts store? Cant really buy a big machine for this.
Alternatively, is there a safety issue or something with the wheel trick? I am thinking I will have to used this approach out of pure neccessity.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: Brisbane Australia
If you can find an engineering or machine shop with a hydraulic press it should take them 5 minutes to seat those studs.
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 685
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
So I am putting the rotors back on the hubs and I am concerned the studs aren't seated all the way...
These photos are about the closest I could get considering the angle.
Basically I am using a 1/2-20 nut and a 1/2 flat washer to accomplish this. I can feel the nut bottoming out but am concerned the washer is simply hitting the spline part of the stud.
Does anyone have any advise on ensuring these studs are proprerly seated? Thanks!
These photos are about the closest I could get considering the angle.
Basically I am using a 1/2-20 nut and a 1/2 flat washer to accomplish this. I can feel the nut bottoming out but am concerned the washer is simply hitting the spline part of the stud.
Does anyone have any advise on ensuring these studs are proprerly seated? Thanks!
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 2
From: Montgomery, IL
the press is the best but we just did this and took a nut that was just a little bigger than the threads so it wouldn't bind and slid it over the stud. Then we took a lug nut and tightened it down and the studs pulled right in, nice and tight.
I like the idea of the steel wheel too. Didn't think of that one when we were doing it.
I like the idea of the steel wheel too. Didn't think of that one when we were doing it.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 13,144
Likes: 348
From: THIS IS SPARTA!, ...Mo.
The big yellow thing in the background is a 20 ton press. No. You can't rent one from a parts store.
You guys have me curious. Why is beating them in a bad idea? I've been turning wrenches since these trucks were new. I put the stud in and turn it until I find the splines, then I use an air hammer to drive them in. Then I use a drift from the back to seat them if the air hammer doesn't get them all the way. After hundreds of brake jobs and decades of doing this, I never had a problem. What have I been so lucky to avoid after all these years?
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 2
From: Montgomery, IL
I don't think there is anything necessarily wrong with they way you are doing it, that is how most of us do it. But if I had a 20 ton press in my shop you better believe I would be using that!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 13,144
Likes: 348
From: THIS IS SPARTA!, ...Mo.
The main reason I don't is it takes too long to set up. By the time I get half of one wheel pressed in with the press, I can have both wheels done the other way. It takes about 30 minutes to replace both rotors with the air hammer and drift. (start to finish, done.)
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,388
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
So with the help of my soon to be 9 year old daughter, I decided to try the steel wheel approach... After repeating the torque pattern several times for each side, I was able to get these drawn down all the way. Here is what the studs look like now:
Nice and tight the way they should be.
The trick was having her stand on the tire to keep it from moving while I leveraged the tire iron. Just to be safe I will retorque these after driving a few miles but pretty sure they bottomed out.
Thanks again for all the feedback!
Nice and tight the way they should be.
The trick was having her stand on the tire to keep it from moving while I leveraged the tire iron. Just to be safe I will retorque these after driving a few miles but pretty sure they bottomed out.
Thanks again for all the feedback!
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