It is getting warm out and I went to turn the a/c on in the truck and it just won't blow cold, so i got home and got under the hood and I can hear it kick on and the wheel on the compressor will spin then kicks of. Is this a sign of no coolant in the system. I did notice at the end of last summer it wasn't as cold as it should be and has been all summer?? Any help would be great thanks.....

 

So it is only blowing hot air? Is it all of the time or worse when the engine is loaded down?

 

Sounds like you might have a slow leaker. I'd start by getting a shop to check the charge (and have 'em squit some dye in there if it's low).

 

Its wied cuz it worked last summer now it doesn't, how much am I looking at , do you know how many pounds it holds?

 

This is not a "get 2 cans of refrig at K-Mart" kinda thing! If the compressor does not run them the system is prob in a low, or no charge state. Compr is controlled by pressure sensitive switch's, and other means.

Now if low. or no 134a, then there is leakage. Leakage equals moisture, which when mixed with the Pag oil in the system results in the formation of acid. And this will eat up parts in you AC...

Do your self a favor and have a pro shop check it out. If it holds a vacuum, then maybe just a recharge will work. If repairs are needed, then that would be a good time to flush the system and get rid of the Pag oil. Replace the Pag with a 'poly' type oil for peace of mind down the road.

Better to spend a few more $$'s now, then get hit with a biggie later, Si?

 

The under hood sticker on my '06 says 2lb,10oz of R-134a and 9oz of oil for the F-series. Unless you have equipment in your garage for this work, it's gotta be farmed out anyway. Last time I had one worked on they found the leak (was an o-ring) replaced the dryer, pulled it down and serviced it back up for $160. The time before that was a Chevy truck with a locked up compressor and metal in the system. The bill on that one was almost $1k. Yikes!

 

[QUOTE=Rusty Axlerod;11648933] Unless you have equipment in your garage for this work, it's gotta be farmed out anyway.

My experience w/ my '88 F350 6.9 IDI diesel was: Bought it new in Sept. '87 and ran the wheels off it. Mid 2002 the ac started down hill. Went to a large wholesale distr that also had a repair facility for a $35 check system deal. 1-1/2 hrs later gave me a almost $1500 estimate. All was junk, replace everything including all the drive belts like fan, ac, alt, etc. When I asked 'why new belts' the reply was; because they are worn out, that's why!' So I ask; are you sure? Reply was; If my tech sez they are worn out, they are worn out, period. Whew, whatta deal I said. And that I had just replaced all the drive belts less that 3 weeks earlier. Here is your $35, give me my keys.

Went online to AC Kits in Arizons, spent $1100 on a good vacuum pump, 4 valve gauge set, sniffer, scale, and other stuff. Got a good book and read up AC stuff. Went out and did it my self. Now all the family and friend's also. Overall the $1500 shop did me a favor as I did not have to replace any of the orig FORD components. The R12 was available and at a good price for 30#'er...

"IF" all one needs is a vacuum and recharge, let the locals do it. But if all is really shot, invest in some equipment and knowledge...

 

I bought a vacumn from Northern Tools few yrs back. Hook to a air line (90psi) and it will vacumn great. Changed compressor, dryer, orfice tube, evaporator core(in firewall), and condensor core last spring. 28 ozs of 134-A and $400 had the coldest vehicle in the family driveway. You have to know and understand head pressure, evaporation rate, and have a good set of gauges to DIY, but good gauges and vacumn only run about $150.
Some wise man on FTE says, If you want it done right you just have to do it yourself.
God Bless