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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 08:31 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by danskool
Interesting that different chip suppliers state different things.
My 5th whl states GVWR 11600. I bet i am not that much weight even with all my crap on board. So i got the 60t. With your 15k, and the mods you are intending to do, I would lean towards the 40t.

20 hp tow codes- for towing weight capacity exceeding 15k lbs. or more.
40hp tow codes- for towing weight capacity between 13 and 15k lbs.
60 hp tow codes- for towing weight capacity between 9 to 13k lbs.
Yeah my GVWR is 13,000 but like you I doubt I'm maxed out so realistically let's say I'm at 12-13,000. Does that make a difference ?

Brian
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 12:02 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by trekbasso
I will, but it will be two weeks or so before I hook up to trailer. Most people I have noticed cured their surge, but not all. I am hoping to avoid the more costly ported housing. They are around 400, where the ww is 100.
Will see!
Here comes another possibly stupid question: Will I know when I have surge? How will I be able to tell?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 01:01 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by smithrock
Here comes another possibly stupid question: Will I know when I have surge? How will I be able to tell?
I could hear mine or you can see it on the gauge. I think it is also known. As Turbo stall.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 01:40 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by smithrock
Yeah my GVWR is 13,000 but like you I doubt I'm maxed out so realistically let's say I'm at 12-13,000. Does that make a difference ?

Brian
Yeah, generally the less weight you tow the more HP you can use safely ... I figure the different manufacturers make their recommended settings based on what their particular chip alters in the programming at that setting that should still be safe to use in a stock engine...talking with the chip programmer about your particular needs and what mods you have will let them recommend an optimum program for your use...

I tow light and not very often and want optimum fuel economy and reliability, my 6 position chip has: Stock, Drive Thru (lower idle), 80 HP DD, 100 HP Perf, 65HP Tow, and AntiTheft ... I don't use the 100 setting and should have gotten a higher idle instead - I could send it back to change the setting but I found an Aux Idle controller so I'm covered there now...
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 02:03 PM
  #35  
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I'm pretty much in the same boat...lol
I'm really happy with my truck the way it is, it runs amazing and never lets me down. I'm nervous about adding the chip/tuner/programmer and changing that. I'm concerned about the tranny and "burning out" the engine.
From what I read that is very unlikely and pretty much everybody on here that has gotten one is more than happy they did.
Power Hungry Performance - Gryphon™ CS & CTS - Diesel

This is the one I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on.
It is a programmer with all the gauges built in which (I think) gives it a really clean look.
PHP has a good reputation on here too, many happy users so....
I think thats the way I'm gonna go.

Oh and not that I have anything against any of the others out there, I just really like the idea of having digital gauges built into it.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 02:20 PM
  #36  
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Sorry I'm late to the party!

I told everybody I wasn't going to chip after I bought mine. I figured the whole mess would run about $1500-$2000. Chip, tunes, gauges, and 4"exhaust will get you there. I lost my transmission from stupidity and I wanted the tools to protect my new one - so chip it is. Guess what? It blew me away - BUT, my old truck could do better if I fixed everything on it. So here come more exhaust upgrades and a few other items. Everything is wonderful (as far as I knew), but I open the can of worms that is AutoEnginuity (service sofware to link with the truck so the dealership can get bent with their $100 hookup) and collect baseline data. Upon reviewing the AE data, I discover my High Pressure Oil pump is weak and there's more untapped power lurking in the shadows.

Basically it's not unlike going to the casino: You have to walk into it with a set budget of how much you're willing to lose. At least I have something to show for my expenditures: Look at the linked upgrades in my signature, which gave me a highly efficient tow monster that will growl right past the fart-tube foreigners with the shiny wheels. Do I regret the mods? NO WAY! How does my wallet feel? Like this:

 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 03:42 PM
  #37  
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Pig, Rooster and Tug- thanks for the input! I've gotta take it one at a time with the mods. Don't have $2k to throw at it right now.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 04:48 PM
  #38  
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Now is it absolutly necesary to go with a larger exhaust to run a programer/tuner?

Tugly, I have learned a TON from your experiences!!! lol Thank you for that.
I just hope my tranny lasts a bit longer.....
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:13 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by roostercrows
Now is it absolutely necessary to go with a larger exhaust to run a programer/tuner?....
My OEM exhaust works fine with any of the calibrations that I have. For reference, I am using PHP on two of my trucks. Hottest tune I have for either of those trucks is 80hp.

My other truck has a Bully Dog programmer using the 75hp setting. Also 3 1/2" exhaust and it does just fine (EGT-wise...).

As far as I know, I am not having any sort of exhaust issues with any of the tunes that I've chosen to run so far. I can't speak for any of the 100-140 hp tunes out there since I have never tried them.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 07:54 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by smithrock
Here comes another possibly stupid question: Will I know when I have surge? How will I be able to tell?
Sorry, just got home from work. Like was said, you can hear a flutter type noise at max boost. Mine was in 4th gear and loaded, like a medium size hill where I didn't have to downshift right away. It shows as a very erratic boost once it hits 20+ range. Someone has a good video with sound out there in forum land, I don't remember who??
That is where the gauges come in, because with a quiet filter setup it won't be audible.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 07:56 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by smithrock
Pig, Rooster and Tug- thanks for the input! I've gotta take it one at a time with the mods. Don't have $2k to throw at it right now.
I hear ya mah fren ... I like the quicker throttle response of the 80 HP Daily Driver setting...but ... I could "get by" with just my muffler deleted and maybe a more open intake (AIS is on my want list) along with my other DIY mods that "suppose" to help everything breathe easier...
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 08:40 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by smithrock
Pig, Rooster and Tug- thanks for the input! I've gotta take it one at a time with the mods. Don't have $2k to throw at it right now.
If you want to ease into it, start with simple stuff - like making sure there are no exhaust leaks between the block and the turbo. If all is well there, consider that I started with getting more air in (this precedes a tune in my experience, but others will feel differently about it). I have the AIS and there are many reasons for being happy with that choice. If the truck is running good, gauges are your best friend (pyro, boost, transmission temp). They tell you when things are right/wrong and how to manage your driving under heavy loads. THEN the tuner will give you fantastic benefits up to 80 HP boost - I was simply blown away when I first fired up my DP with a 60 HP boost. After you tire of the bennies of 80 HP boost, the 4" exhaust gives you the "I thought the tuner was a bump, but this just keeps getting better" feeling.

Just getting the truck past the high-mile hangover with ordinary repairs/upgrades (like bellowed ups to fix an exhaust leak) will give you returns in economy and power. Don't be afraid to mod - just do it in a monetarily digestable way so you can afford the fuel to drive more because it's so pleasurable. Start simple, and go as the wallet allows - with one ear to the rails here at FTE. We're here for you, brother.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by roostercrows
Now is it absolutly necesary to go with a larger exhaust to run a programer/tuner?

Tugly, I have learned a TON from your experiences!!! lol Thank you for that.
I just hope my tranny lasts a bit longer.....
Thank you for that, roostercrows. I appreciate everything I've learned from the brotherhood and this is how I show it - I share right back.

To answer your question, nope. You don't need 4" exhaust - but the 4" after you've driven the tuner for a while will poke the 8000-pound gorilla with a stick again. You'll remember that feeling you had the first time you fired up a tuned diesel. Even the stock tune is a whole new beast, but if I had to do it all over again - tuner before exhaust.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 11:58 PM
  #44  
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I got the tuner before i did exhaust !.. BIG-BIG MISTAKE !.. My wife understood the benefits of the tuner. If i told her i needed the exhaust before i got the tuner, I would have had both now.. But after countless trips with the camper with no issues, "why do you need the exhaust, truck runs good, I want a new couch ! "

Another lesson learned on that one.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 01:28 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by danskool
I got the tuner before i did exhaust !.. BIG-BIG MISTAKE !.. My wife understood the benefits of the tuner. If i told her i needed the exhaust before i got the tuner, I would have had both now.. But after countless trips with the camper with no issues, "why do you need the exhaust, truck runs good, I want a new couch ! "

Another lesson learned on that one.

Haha, Dan, did we marry the same woman? Gotta love them, but spending money on the truck is WAY down the priority list.
 
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