No chip won't fix that. Its surge and I am pretty sure you can get it without a chip too. It is fixed with s wicked wheel (different compressor wheel) or a lot more expensive ATS housing.

 

So is it guaranteed that I'll get that surge if I do upgrade my intake and exhaust?

 

No. But you can try it and see. Not a bad job to install a WW. 7.3 powerstroke turbo wheel upgrade - YouTube


You have at least a EGT gauge? Or done the fuel tank mod? I would get the EGT and Trans temp gauge before you get the chip, Unless you already have. So you can keep an eye on temperatures.

Just tossing in a mod that could have had dad walking on one of his travel trips. Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
My filters were not bad, But Dads were so clogged i was surprised it didn't cause problems and leave him walking.

 

No gauges yet. I'm planning on getting them soon though. Probably going with Glowshift for price

 

It becomes a vicious cycle. You do one mod or upgrade and then you have to do others to make them all work or to get the benefits from them.

 

Yeah smithrock, welcome to the club! You will need gauges before the chip, as monitering the temps is a must.
On the surge, I have been told that mine probably did it before my 6637 filter, but I couldn't hear it and didn't have gauges (it shows up on the boost psi). The first time I noticed it was with the open filter, and towing.
I am about to put a wicked wheel on, hoping that cures it.

 

Haha, yeah I was kinda thinking that. Well, I'll do what I can when I can. I think I'm going intake/exhaust then gauges then chip and maybe some other small low $ mods!

 

We can keep you busy.. My air bags were a great install. Worth it for the camper.. A morryde pin box will be coming in the next week or so.
Won't give you more power, But this mod was pretty cheap..!.. Just a little bit of ROTOZIP work and lots of measuring. Tight fit and almost had to be perfect to fit. I love this mod. No more 5th wheel camper wire banging on the tail gate or coming unplugged..

 

Keep me posted if that does fix that!


Brian

 

Where you put that electrical connection-it's going to be able to plug in ok? By the look in the pic, it looks like it's gonna be tight due to that protruding area in the bed? I have mine on the side towards the rear near the bottom of the bed. Is that pin box your getting similar to an Airride?


Brian

 

The picture does make it look tight. But the receptacle and the camper's plug is unmodified. Plugs in nicely. I will have to grab a better picture, I see what you mean.
That was why the measurements were so critical. It was like it was made to go there but a 1/4 here or there will kill you. The rotorzip work was on the truck solely. Zipping the hole for the receptacle and behind the light, body sheet metal. near those two holes So the wires didn't rub or pinch them.

Air Rides look nice But costly. Going to try the morryde pin box. Rubber MOR/ryde Products

If that don't do it and make the ride better, I am going to toss my sloppy slider reese hitch over the side and look for something nicer. Then the new fancy hitch plus the morryde it should pull smoothly. My reese works good, Just sloppy which i am sure it don't help, Going to try to shim her up a bit. My goal it to drink coffee without spilling it on me from the chucking i get sometimes.

 

Haha yeah I know whatcha mean! I've got a slider myself- no problems with it, works great but it's heavier than cr@p to take in and out!

 

I've got an '02 F250 as well (4x4) ... after going thru it front to rear and making sure everything was serviced and all was well, I deleted my muffler and the Air Intake Heater and then decided on a 6 position (phoenix) chip from KT Performance - Kenny talk to me about my driving habits and what I wanted and made recommendations and answered all my questions to help me be sure I was getting what I needed...and all for $295 + shipping...

I normally keep mine on the 80HP Daily Driver setting and it makes the truck perform more like a gas burner with easier acceleration and being able to pass amazingly quick when you push on the pedal. Using the right setting on the chip for how you're driving or whatever weight you're towing is suppose to make it easier on the truck - as long as you drive like you want it to last...

Pulling 15K would need the 25HP Tow setting - good thing you got that bigger tranny cooler! Everyone says gauges first and with you pulling that much weight it would seem a good thing to have...I rarely tow and when I do it's 7.5K or less so I just got the 65HP Tow setting if I need it ... and if I were to need to tow heavier, I'll use the stock setting to be on the safe side...

So, the way I understand it is as long as you drive the truck like you want it to last, using a chip shouldn't hurt anything and should actually be an asset...

I love to hear my turbo whistle but I've read that using the 6637 open filter while towing can get on your nerves ... you may want to check out the high performance Ford Air Induction System that flows more air but does it quieter than an open system - that's the one I've got on my list ... oh, and make sure your exhaust exits behind the tires...

 

Interesting that different chip suppliers state different things.
My 5th whl states GVWR 11600. I bet i am not that much weight even with all my crap on board. So i got the 60t. With your 15k, and the mods you are intending to do, I would lean towards the 40t.

20 hp tow codes- for towing weight capacity exceeding 15k lbs. or more.
40hp tow codes- for towing weight capacity between 13 and 15k lbs.
60 hp tow codes- for towing weight capacity between 9 to 13k lbs.

 

I will, but it will be two weeks or so before I hook up to trailer. Most people I have noticed cured their surge, but not all. I am hoping to avoid the more costly ported housing. They are around 400, where the ww is 100.
Will see!