i definitely want so see this project finished, just give it some thought and take it one small step at a time

Dave

 

What Dave said. If it's the engine management that is roadblocking you, perhaps it's time to consider Megasquirt or some other after-market EMS. That should allow you to eliminate all sorts of electrical complications.

As for sheet metal, I'm thinking that should be the "easy" part as long as you have decent fabrication skills.

BTW, no quitting allowed - forum policy.

 

I'm curious if this could be an option.
I have checked their website out because I bought connectors from them.
But their main business is engine management.
It's at least worth an email to them to see if what you need is possible.
Totally understand your frustration.

 

It has turned out that the sheet metal will be most difficult part over-all.

Because the late model cabs are HUGE compared to the old cabs it is creating a major issue.

2011 Cab~Dash 24"

1966 Cab~Dash 15"

In order to fit the new dash into the 66 I need to gain 9" of clearance in depth of dash.

As I said before the height of '66 frame is 6" while the 2011 frame is 11"

Pretty much all the 2011 features have to be installed in the '66 in order for it to work properly.

The MegaSquirt EFI is only engine management so it flat out will not work.
Yes I could use MegaSquirt or other EFI just to run engine but at this point I am too far into it for that.

I have 4 other FE powered trucks and really want something different with EFI, Thats why I started this project in the 1st place.

I pretty much decided which would be a unusual and neat engine and chose the EcoBoost. I did not want to know how difficult it would be in beginning as I would have never attempted the project!

I searched for a wrecked low mile eco that was hit in rear for a reason, I was aware of the huge difference in wheel base. 129" vs 145" and was completely unknown if I could get this to work or not.

Because I sold my Semi Tractor and now also my car hauler to make this work I am not going to give up so easy. About gave them BOTH away. Still very limited in funds $$ and want to utilize as much of the 2011 Eco as possible to save costs.

If I cannot get the entire dash from the '11 into the '66 along with HVAC I will most likely give up simply it makes no sense to me to have a late model EFI engine and no A/C.

In today's market the Regular cab F150 with a 5.5' Box has a 125.9" wheelbase compare that to a 1966 F100/250 with a 8' Box and there is only a 3.1" difference. Its all in the size of cab & wheel location.

What I am in process of doing before I give in is yesterday and day before worked on removing the mid firewall from the 2011, drilling out spotwelds upside down is not so fun . . .

What needs to be done next is to remove the entire floor of the 2011 and set it on frame which is bent severely then check cab orientation of '66 to the 2011 floor. Forward and aft it can only go in O N E spot and that is so front axle centerline is in proper location to front wheel opening in fender.

Next up will be to chop apart the '66 cab because of height of floor and the frame in back being 10" wider than the '66 frame.


The good part of this if it works is the 2011 cab has QUIET STEEL in it and its simply amazing when you hit normal steel then the quiet steel and what takes place with sound absorption.

See for your self: Yes, its been part of plan but my first mention of it.

Ford "Quiet Steel" - YouTube

I actually have this same part on hand.

Ford F150 vs Other Trucks - Quiet Steel - YouTube

Now it will be up to the wind noise of the '66 cab . . . LOL

Ford F150 vs Other Trucks - Quiet Steel - YouTube

More in a bit . . .

 

Couple other points:

The 1966 cab is approx 53" Tall

The 2011 cab is approx 60" Tall

The C A B on the 2011 length

I was in middle of typing when I got side tracked and just noticed I went for 12+ hrs straight... Now I plumb forgot what I was typing here.

 

Boss, since the windshield on the eco sticks out so far at the bottom compared to the 66, could you make the cowl solid on the 66?

In other words, eliminate the air vents between the wipers and weld the area up. Could the eco dash then work into that cowl area, giving you the 9 inches needed. I only ask because it looks like there is no cowl on the eco trucks.

 

Still looking into solutions.

There is a HUGE cowl area on the 2011 Eco but it is in front of windshield. It houses the wiper motor assy. A very basic and simple assy.

Another big issue is the windshield on the Eco is 34 1/2" tall on the but only 21 1/2" tall on the '66. The HUGE rake in Eco windshield gives it a TON of room.

Long day today for sure . . . A few friends stopped by when I was in the middle of typing earlier today and now sat down for first time trying to make some headway.

I removed the firewall from the Eco and also the Eco's complete Floor to point of 2nd rear cab mount which is apprx 6~8" past the cab on the '66.

I then installed the floor on the Eco Chassis with the '66 Cab hanging overhead.

In order for this to work the Eco Firewall would have to be mounted approx 6" further forward in the '66 cab than the '66 Firewall is. Its the ONLY possible solution I can see to be able to use the '11 HVAC assy.

I then removed the dash Assy from the '66 Cab in an attempt to see how the '11 dash assy would fit in the '66 cab. Surprisingly the dash pad itself is about the perfect width with approx 1/8" on each side to spare. Problem is the huge metal frame of the '11 dash bolts to "A" pillar and is covered up by plastic. So the length of the '11 cab along with the height make it near impossible to add the '11 dash into the '66 cab.

While removing the floor from the '11 cab (I ended up buying a super nice Milwaukee hand grinder and some 6" cut off wheels) I attempted to stand up the '11 cab inside the garage and did not even think to watch the ceiling just all of a sudden the cab stopped and was hitting ceiling and would not stand upright! The ceiling is 10' 4" too! HUGE to say the least and its only a extended cab. Its no wonder these trucks weigh in at 6000lbs. The '11 floor itself must weigh between 150~200lbs minimum.

Getting closer but still do not know which route I will be taking but is appearing if I want to make this work I will have to build a custom dash . . . The 11 protrudes too far into the passenger compartment and because the height of '66 cab is so much less than the '11 there is little room for legs.

Sure wish I had a program to draw something up instead of just trial and error.. Heavy on the "ERROR" LOL.

 

Dropped the '66 cab onto a cab cart, removed '66 dash assy. not much left of th '11 right now . . .

Pic of the floor on 11 Chassis to check for proper cab/firewall position.

Too tired to type anymore . . .

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That's one heck of a project, I'm hopeing it turns out well, good luck in your endavors

 

Thanks!

This gives an idea how far in the '11 dash is compared to '66 Dash and being the '11 dash is 9" deeper than the '66.

No place for windshield wiper's either. Location totally wrong as the '11 HVAC takes up so much room.

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Another big issue is:

While the dash is sticking out 4" further than it should its overhanging forward into windshield area. If moved further forward there is no room for defroster ducting or anything else. Already no room for HVAC assy.

I do not think it would look right to change the rake of windshield.

Sure wish I had one of those fancy computer programs to help me out here! LOL

This is flat out just not going to work.

Sometimes dreams become nightmares. This is one of those.

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Another issue is the '11 Eco has fly by wire throttle and adjustable pedals.
Something that cannot be done with a aftermarket Computer for EFI management without having the 2nd Ford Computer.

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Note with above where would the wipers go? Yup, Thats what I thought . . .

 

Personally, I think it would be way cooler to keep the original dash to the 66.

What parts of the 2011 a/c in the cab make it special to be able to run the newer system?
It looks like it just houses the heater core and a/c coil.Why not use the vintage air plumbing in the cab and tie into the 2011 a/c under the hood. You would still have the comforts and ride of the 2011 with the great look of the 66.

Sorry, I was typing while you posted more info.

 

I am thinking you may have to combine the two firewalls. I really can not say, since i am not there. It looks like you could cut the 11 firewall bulge where the pedals are and merge it in with the 66 firewall.

 

I agree the 66 dash would look much better. Its simply not big enough to house all the wiring etc.

I do not have another 12-1500.00 for a aftermarket A/C system. And then the aftermarket would probably be more difficult to tie into the current electronics.

Yes the plan has been to use at least a partial '11 firewall. Much easier to mount the pedal assy's, power brake booster etc. I also need to use at least partial '11 floor for cab mounting so this week when time allows will attempt that. Its possible my new frame will be here tomorrow some time so that will help a lot too.

I ordered a new rear axle (used) from LKQ but learned real fast you cannot trust them. Major price change and half the parts that were quoted were missing, Probably just order a new ford unit in pieces for less $$. The 3:15 rears are very difficult to find good used.

I will probably tear into the '11 dash to see how difficult it would be to blend it with the 66 dash although I would need 9" more dash to get it accomplished. Any of the '11 dash interferes with the '66 wiper's. Here A/C is more important than wipers . . .

I do have a Cherry used '66 dash pad so . . .