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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

460 ring installation

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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 03:13 PM
  #16  
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I guess I wasn't looking at it right. To me, it looked like there is a big hole in the head.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 03:16 PM
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A few of the pistons I pulled from my 300 had the ring gaps lined up as well.

For some reason, it seems that RTV, missing bolts, and carelessness have become essential parts of today's backyard engine rebuilds.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BURNSF250
I guess I wasn't looking at it right. To me, it looked like there is a big hole in the head.
Those are shadows.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 03:27 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Fordzilla80
A few of the pistons I pulled from my 300 had the ring gaps lined up as well.

For some reason, it seems that RTV, missing bolts, and carelessness have become essential parts of today's backyard engine rebuilds.
I've got too much $$$ into this motor now. There's no way I'm going to hack it up!
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 05:47 PM
  #20  
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From 1983 Ford Factory manual for 7.5L



Need the steps that follow?

Rob
Lewis Center OH
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 05:50 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by rbalsinger
From 1983 Ford Factory manual for 7.5L

Need the steps that follow?

Rob
Lewis Center OH
Same diagram I quoted from the '81 FSM.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 06:08 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
This is an example of what NOT to do:

I don't understand why this should be, though. Those gaps are completely closed when the piston is in the cylinder, are they not? Then why would it matter how the gaps line up?

I don't dispute that the instructions say what they say, but I don't get the why of it.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 06:20 PM
  #23  
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GAPS ARE NOT COMPLETELY CLOSED , THERE IS A SPEC FOR END GAPS !
and with a bad or no air filter and operating in dust the end gaps can enlarge to look like the grand canyon !
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 08:16 PM
  #24  
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I guess it doesn't matter which compression ring is positioned where. I ended up positioning the top ring at 4:30 and the second ring at 7:30. Unfortunately, I broke the second ring on the second piston when I was placing the ring compressor over the piston. It didn't take much effort to break it. I was rather surprised.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 08:23 PM
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I easily broke one of my original rings trying to remove it, that's why I had my engine builder/machinist install the new rings on the new pistons.

There is a top & bottom orientation to the rings - IOW they can be installed upside down - but I forget how to tell which way is UP.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BURNSF250
I guess it doesn't matter which compression ring is positioned where. I ended up positioning the top ring at 4:30 and the second ring at 7:30. Unfortunately, I broke the second ring on the second piston when I was placing the ring compressor over the piston. It didn't take much effort to break it. I was rather surprised.
Bummer! Are you using a tool to expand them? Lots easier than your thumbs.

Originally Posted by ctubutis
I easily broke one of my original rings trying to remove it, that's why I had my engine builder/machinist install the new rings on the new pistons.

There is a top & bottom orientation to the rings - IOW they can be installed upside down - but I forget how to tell which way is UP.
The manual tells how to determine which side goes up, as do the other books I have. If that's an issue I'll look it up - in the morning.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 07:07 AM
  #27  
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I did use an expander to install them. I broke the ring placing the compressor over the piston.
All of the rings in this kit have a small dot on the side that faces to the top of the piston.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 06:38 PM
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man look at those valves!!! That is one high lift cam!!! Haha
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 09:10 PM
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You want to talk about worn, when I was at Camp Geiger during ITR, we still had M1s, one of the guys in my platoon had one so worn out the rounds literally fell out of the muzzle.
 
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