So okay I got this for $1600. No rust and is really tight.Although she's a dirty girl right now she is not torn up at all. Interior is very good. Outside needs paint and one small dent. I tightened up all three doors and took of the spare tire rack and got rid of most of the dirt road rattles. It's a 351W with a new edlebroc 4V carb. It's just a small one.Here's the VIN and some pic's. Tell me what ya all can and help with the gas mileage please. It got 5.5 when I limped it home and gets 6.8 now with the tune and smaller tires.

VIN: 1FMEU15H9FLA32673

First pic is the 33X12.5 that was on her when I drove her home

 

Okay more pic's. We all like pic's right.

 

So what ya think? I like it. Handles well for such a short rig. Damn Fun to drive and runs well after fixing a dead plug wire and tune.

 

Hey man once again, nice truck. I got the same rims

Also, i have the same cupholder thing haha, i can't really help with fuel mileage cause i don't know much about it but i can say good luck sir

PS:

 

Grusome? Theres a sister Ship to yours in town. A 78 or 9. Has been sitting for years but looks as good as yours. Word is he won't sell. I am going in tomorrow and will try and check on it.I also got that same Gif. But can't find it.

 

Oh ya? i don't think i have seen it. BUT if you happen to be in the area tomorrow and wanna stop by to check out TGM go for it, He/she is out for show all day and night. I grabbed that gif cause FTE didn't have one. Where is this 78-9 located?

 

So lets all stand around her and have a cold one and talk about what to do first while I fix dinner. First thing is fuel mileage. 6.8 don't cut it. Now it says Auto Hubs. With the wheel off the ground the axle and drive shaft turn. Is this a full time transfer case? I don't think so. So where to get a set of locking hubs? Warn, Ford? What and where Folks. That should pump up the mileage. I got a few bucks to spend on it so let's do it up right. Now I have a Marine 351 that is barely broken in. I could still see the cross hatching in the cylinders when I had the head off looking it over. Now it would have a straight up timing set and at least an RV type cam, Right. I am assuming the Bronc engine does not have straight up timing. Would the Marine have better heads as well?

 

The 78 or 9 is in Craig Alaska. The Island I am on. Prince of Wales

 

Oooh jeeze nevermind i thought you meant near me i am not in alaska... Anyways as for manual hubs i think you could get them off ebay, i don't know if Ford would have them. You might also be able to buy them from Jeffs Bronco Graveyard, either way i don't think you will be able to get them in store. As for fuel mileage, what i could think of is keeping your foot out of it, timing, check the setting on the carb if 85 had a carb?

 

Ya it carbed and I drive easy for the most part. She falls on her face if ya nail it over about 50. It will cruse at 65 or 70 all day but if ya nail it at 55 it will just howl like hell (4 BBLs sucking air) but wont accelerate till ya let off and ease into it. It don't miss or run rough at all since I found and fixed the bad plug wire. It's as smooth as silk. IDK

Now mind you the first hour of my 1.5 hour trip into town is on the worst road you can imagine. Pot holes, washouts, ruts, dirt and gravel. It's stop and go. On the brakes and back to the gas. Way worse than city driving or LA at rush hour.

 

Ya know what we need is Numberdummy Bill. I need some part numbers and the VIN decoded. Anyone know what is going on with him? I hope he is all okay.

Part numbers for the stock hub caps and screws. I only got the back two and not enough screws to mount them both.

And numbers for the lock out hubs for a start. I have not had a good time with e-bay. Only time I use them was a couple of month ago for some bike parts and got royally screwed.

 

Okay what do we need to figure out, what front end She's got? Jeff's Bronco grave yard needs to know.

This stuff off the door tag

FGWR 2600 LB

Type GVW U154

Axle 16

WB 105

Body KB

Trans K : I think this is a C6

What transfer case is in it?

 

I'm gonna take a stab at the power problem. I may not be correct but maybe I can give you a starting point. There are four things worth checking.

1. Check the pressure on the factory fuel pump. If you are getting less than4.5 or 5 PSI, then I would look at a replacement. If it's mechanical and they start to go out, the diaphragm can leak gas into the oil and start eating seals and bearings. (this is worst case scenario)

2. Check or change the fuel filter. When I pulled mine off, fuel sprayed out pretty hard from the inlet line telling me that it was full of goobers.

3. Check the floats in the secondaries. If they are sitting too low, you can starve the motor and lean out under WOT conditions. The float may even be stuck down. The reason you probably won't see the power loss at lower speeds is that you are not in the higher rpm range as long, not enough time to drain the secondaries.

4. Check the vacuum advance. This causes all kinds of trouble when you are above about 2000 rpms or so. It's not as common as the fuel related issues however.

I don't know if this helps you much but if the bronco was sitting for any length of time, it's likely that the fuel might have broke down a bit and made a little sludge. It doesn't take much to slow down the fuel system.

My theories aren't always correct but if you have issues getting the fuel to the motor, your foot is going to have to push harder to get you down the road. This could tend to lower the mileage a bit.

Also, if the front axles are turning when you spin the wheel with it jacked up, you should get manual hubs. This will free up a little more drag. I'm buying a set of Mile Marker hubs. They are like 60 bucks. I'm in a 78 bronco though. It's probably the same part #.

My .02. If nothing else, maybe just a good starting place.

 

All good stuff Justin. Lets take her one at a time.

1) Mechanical fuel pump is Napa new, About two months old.
Checking the fuel pressure is a good call. Will do.
No fuel in oil

2) Was told the filter was new as well. Will check it out better

3)Edelbrock carb is new and has no secondary float bowl I don't think.
It has manual secondarys and looks to be working well
Manual choke is working well also. I like this.

4)Vacuum Advance, Why did I not think of that. Easy to check.
Will do that as soon as it is light enough to see.

5)She hasn't been sitting but some octane booster is on the
grocery list for the town trip today.

6) I will see what Napa has for locking hubs today. Were's ND with the part numbers?

7)With around 150K on the clock what about a worn cam do to no zinc or lead in the oil?
What is an inexpensive oil with the right stuff for this engine that Napa would have?
Mind you the engine runs very well. No smoke, no miss, Smooth. But reminds me of
a 351M dog stock. It's got no guts.

I think I asked this before, Does this engine have the offset cam setup in it? I'm
pretty sure it does.
And I am thinking the new Marine engine will have straight up timing and a much
better cam. And what about heads? Where do I find numbers on them? And what
is the HO about? Is that just the 4V carb? Or is there more to it? Or did someone just
stick that air cleaner housing on there. Won't the Vin decoded tell if it is an HO?

Maybe I should start a thread over in the engine forum. But was hoping to keep it all here

 

If you have the Auto-Locking Hubs...Then you will need to get a Conversion-kit to be able to install manual locking hubs. Warn, Mile-Marker, And Superwinch I believe all sell the conversion kits. And I advise getting the Warn Premimium Hubs or the Mile-Marker Stainless Manual Hubs.

Yes there was a HO version. 4bbl Holley versus a 2bbl(Motorcraft I think?) and and a different intake.

Trans would most likely be a C6...Shift pattern on dash PRND21(C6) if AOD it would be PRN(D)D1

This year always confuses me lol. Rear end should either be a 9" or a 8.8
T-cases: NP208, BW1345 or BW1356...Im sure you can Id the rearend. The Borg-Warner T-cases can Be Id'ed on the rear of the case. It should be stamped on it 1345 or 1356 along with some other numbers I believe.

Axle Code 16 indicates you have an open 3.50 geared diff