Thanks guys. I'll digest all this as soon as I can. I went to town today and just got a chance before bed to check this thread. Boys got a basket ball game in town tomorrow so I am hoping to get back to this tomorrow afternoon. Again thanks guys I'll ask in the engine forum then also.

Night All

 

Quote from ND:

Tricky, I need to know a coupla things...

I need the front axle ID tag to look up the hubs (without it, it's a PITA as there are over 100 front driving axle parts lists ).

The tag is under one of the bolts that retains the inspection cover to the housing. Do not be surprised if the puppy is missing.

Your Bronco has styled aluminum wheels. Which type of hubcaps are present, black plastic or plastic chrome? Are the hubcaps 4 5/16" or 7 1/8" in diameter?

If the hubcaps are black, so are the screws. If the hubcaps are chromed plastic, the screws are chrome.

Here is the tag info Bill:

3.50 E4TA ANA
6 10198-15

The hub caps are chrome. And 7 1/8th OD
And on the inside what do I find but numbers.
E2TA 1A097-GA-4X4
AND
E2TA 1A097-FA-4X2

Are these numbers good?

 

The Edelbrock Carb does not come stock with the lever for the FORD transmission kickdown. Does yours have it? also checkou the Vac modual on the side of the C-6. If it's an AOD transmission then you need a special cable and bracket from Locar. hope this helps.

 

The kick down isn't hooked up. Right on. It's a C6 not an AOD. I am thinking about changing the C6 out when I put the Marine engine in. I got two good A4OD's, one a recent rebuild from Transmission Exchange down in Seattle. I understand they will bolt to the 351W. What about the rest of it, mounts, special cable and what not? Whats the better and most feasible 4 speed auto for this application. The A4OD, AOD, or an E4OD and why? I know little about theses three. The C4 and C6 I have rebuilt several commercially with excellent results. Are any of the OD's that I can use nearly as tough as a C6? And are they really Overdrive or just 4 speed with about the same engine RPM in high gear?

 

Originally, you could get the hubs or kits to repair them. Which would you prefer?

The kits will be a lot cheaper. The hubs are obsolete, so you'll be at the mercy of whoever has any NOS.

Lemme know what you decide.

1982/94 E150, F150 & Bronco / Be prepared for sticker shock! =

E2TZ-1130-C .. 7 1/8" O/A diameter Rear Hubcap-2WD/4WD / Chromed Plastic / Available from Ford.

MSRP each: $152.98 (I kid you not!) // PARTSGUYED.COM price each: $110.15.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
E2TZ-1130-D .. 7 1/8" O/A diameter Front Hubcap-4WD only / Chromed Plastic / Obsolete

Last MSRP each: $119.13 / Dealer net cost each: $71.48 / Available NOS, none in AK but a source in WA has 366! a source in WI has 357!

There are a coupla 100 more scattered across the US at dealers/obsolete parts vendors.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
389465-S45 .. Chrome Hubcap Screw / Same: 1977/96 F100/150, E150 & Bronco / Available from Ford.

MSRP each: $4.20 // PARTSGUYED.COM price each: $2.52.

The anchors are listed in my other post.

I may be able to find some of these hubcaps used at a local truck dismantlers yard. I'll be going there pretty soon, cuz they have a used '65 anodized grille that a member of the 1961/66 forum needs.

I've been procastinating for months, the member (Fritz) keeps bugging me, so I'll prolly go there next week.

 

Did you say Ticker Shock Bill!!!

All I would like is the two front caps and 12 screws and anchors

I'll order the screws and anchors and wait for you to check the yard for the grille and front caps.

I expect a little more snow in the next couple weeks than I will put the 33's and custom wheels back on for the summer.

PARTSGUYED.COM = Horizon Ford correct?
The anchor kit's consist of the anchors and screws only?
These I would like new.

Also on the locking hubs. I would like the price and numbers on both the kit and the complete hub if possible please.

Thanks Bill

 

The anchors and prices are listed in my first post (#29). They are dirt cheap, so buy more than you need, as they are very prone to failing.

Here are some sources for the front E2TZ-1130-D hubcaps:

HAVEN FORD (will prolly be the cheapest) in Haven KS has 2 = 620-465-2252.

WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has 2 = 606-787-5293.

SMACKOVER MOTORS in Smackover AR has 4 = 870-725-3961.

VINTAGE PARTS in Beaver Dam WI has 357 = 877-846-8243.

COLLECTORS AUTO SUPPLY in Oroville WA has 366 = 800-414-4462.

brb with the hub and kit numbers and prices, will edit into this post.

 

Bill's Micro fish machine is down. I am patiently waiting for him to clean it. He's a busy man. I have always believed if ya need a job done and done right than go to the busiest man in that field.

Really Bill I am just bumping my thread back up to show off my Bronc some more.

 

Great looking Bronco. Don't even list the E4OD as an option, they would require a computer ($$$$$$$) to control it and they are very picky even when everything should be 100%

The C4, C6, and AOD will all bolt up to the 351w with the proper bellhousing. I don't know if the AOD is as strong as the C6, but if you aren't towing or throwing serious power to through it I don't think that should be too big an issue.

As for your hub issue, sounds like you want to cenvert from Auto hubs to Manual lock-out style hubs. If so then this is the kit for you:
Manual Hub Conversion Kit, From Auto to Warn Premium
You mentioned wanting Warn Hubs, but there are other brands out there.

Edelbrock does list the Lokar cable as being required for kickdown operation on Ford transmissions.

 

Yes Brett. Them's what I'm looking for. And the price is right too. I will hold off a bit longer to see what Bill comes up with from Ford. And a trip to town to put some funds in the bank.

Anyone know how to safely get old clear coat off tail light lens's?

 

Double post

 

The best way I could think of is a real fine grit sand paper. Too harsh of a chemical I think would eat at the light. You might check the classifieds for a truck being parted out or local junkyards. They seem to run about $20 a piece to replace online.

 

Thanks again Brett. I just got done cleaning the rear lenses and putting on a bigger backup light. Now when I go into reverse at night I can see where I'm at and going I hope.

The AOD would prolly give me better highway mileage but do nothing for the stop and go driving right?

 

Pretty much. Stop and go performance would only change really with a rear end gear change (3.73 or maybe a 3.90)

 

Try some WD40, it will probably help and won't hurt.