Low Boost
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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Low Boost
now that i have a pyro i decided to try turning up my feul. i took the cover off of the IP then found the fuel screw. it would not turn by hand. so i got some vice grips. i "think" i turned the screw 1 flat max. i test drove and noticed no difference. egt's were the same, maxed out at 850-900*. boost maxes out at 5psi. both of those max numbers happen once i get to about 65-70mph. taking off from a stop civilized i see 3psi and 700*.
how quickly does your egt's and boost numbers rise?
how quickly does your egt's and boost numbers rise?
ok, so i plugged my wg hose with a bolt and wired the wg arm shut so it would not open. that actually lowered my max boost. i now max out at 4psi. it climbs good to 4 then it WILL NOT get any higher, yet my egt's continue to climb. the only way to hit 4 psi is to go WOT from a near stand still.
i am mystified by how plugging my wg would lower max boost.
i am mystified by how plugging my wg would lower max boost.
i put a tight fitting bolt in the hose between the comp housing and wg actuator. i also clamped it with a hose clamp. and i tied some wire around were the wg bolts to the comp housing to the linkage on the exhaust housing so the wg would not flop open by itself.
i took the bolt back out and hooked it everything back up.
the fitting on the comp housing for the wg was a little loose. i tightened that. i also used some of me exhaust sealant to seal were the comp outlet goes into the intake snail. those two things did not change anything.
i do know that i did turn the fuel up do to the fact that i can now roll coal. it did not effect egt's at all though.
i took the bolt back out and hooked it everything back up.
the fitting on the comp housing for the wg was a little loose. i tightened that. i also used some of me exhaust sealant to seal were the comp outlet goes into the intake snail. those two things did not change anything.
i do know that i did turn the fuel up do to the fact that i can now roll coal. it did not effect egt's at all though.
ok so i tested my boost gauge.
my boost gauge is consistantly reading 5psi less than what i have my air comp regulated to. so a/c set to 20psi, my boost gauge reads 15psi.
so this is telling me that when driving and my gauge reads 5psi i am really pushing 10psi? under normal acceleration my gauge reads 2-3psi so this would really be 7-8psi.
not sure how the gauge could be messed up since it is mechanical so it sounds like the line is kinked/pinched some where.
the odd thing though is last fall when i had my sunpro gauge set up as my boost gauge i was getting the same readings. that had a straight shot for the boost tube between the turbo and the gauge.:dunno
also i turned my fuel up half a flat from the way it came when it was rebuilt and it gave me a CONSIDERABLE more amt of black smoke. it's like i increased fuel but the boost did not increase resulting in not enough air.:dunno
also if all ^^^^^ is correct how would plugging the wg lower my WOT boost and not make a difference in normal acceleration boost?
my boost gauge is consistantly reading 5psi less than what i have my air comp regulated to. so a/c set to 20psi, my boost gauge reads 15psi.
so this is telling me that when driving and my gauge reads 5psi i am really pushing 10psi? under normal acceleration my gauge reads 2-3psi so this would really be 7-8psi.
not sure how the gauge could be messed up since it is mechanical so it sounds like the line is kinked/pinched some where.
the odd thing though is last fall when i had my sunpro gauge set up as my boost gauge i was getting the same readings. that had a straight shot for the boost tube between the turbo and the gauge.:dunno
also i turned my fuel up half a flat from the way it came when it was rebuilt and it gave me a CONSIDERABLE more amt of black smoke. it's like i increased fuel but the boost did not increase resulting in not enough air.:dunno
also if all ^^^^^ is correct how would plugging the wg lower my WOT boost and not make a difference in normal acceleration boost?
i decided to see if the muffler was causing issues. i took the intermediate pipe off again an went for a drive with just the dp. that did not do enough to warrant a new muffler or deleting the muffler.
would i be able the take the exhaust elbow(thing the dp connects to) off of the turbo and use a mirror to look at the exhaust wheel.
would i be able the take the exhaust elbow(thing the dp connects to) off of the turbo and use a mirror to look at the exhaust wheel.
all of these boost numbers start moving once i get over 2500rpm.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,851
Likes: 3
From: Buckley, WA
where is your reading coming from?
your 100% positive you have no leaks in the intake/exhaust?
no leaks at the fitting on the boost gauge?
do you have any trailers or big hills near by?
my fuel screw was mighty tight as well but once it got turning seemed to ease up. dont think 1 flat would make a huge difference
whats your timing set at?
have you ever taken your turbo off?
hows your air filter?
your 100% positive you have no leaks in the intake/exhaust?
no leaks at the fitting on the boost gauge?
do you have any trailers or big hills near by?
my fuel screw was mighty tight as well but once it got turning seemed to ease up. dont think 1 flat would make a huge difference
whats your timing set at?
have you ever taken your turbo off?
hows your air filter?
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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Likes: 2
where is your reading coming from?
your 100% positive you have no leaks in the intake/exhaust?
no leaks at the fitting on the boost gauge?
do you have any trailers or big hills near by?
my fuel screw was mighty tight as well but once it got turning seemed to ease up. dont think 1 flat would make a huge difference
whats your timing set at?
have you ever taken your turbo off?
hows your air filter?
your 100% positive you have no leaks in the intake/exhaust?
no leaks at the fitting on the boost gauge?
do you have any trailers or big hills near by?
my fuel screw was mighty tight as well but once it got turning seemed to ease up. dont think 1 flat would make a huge difference
whats your timing set at?
have you ever taken your turbo off?
hows your air filter?
i don't have anymore exhaust leaks. the wg tubing is not leaking. the comp outlet to snail is not leaking. i am not 100% on the snail gasket. i don't know how i could test that for leaks. same for testing a leak at the boost gauge fitting.
no trailers. no big, long hills either. some brief steep hills.
i don't want to turn my fuel up any more b/c the thing smoke to much right now with the little that i turned it up.
no idea on the timing. it is advanced 2 dimes widths from the marks, but no actual numbers.
i have never touched the turbo.
air filter condition has never made a difference on boost level.
unless i have a massive boost leak somewhere i don't understand why sealing my up-pipe has ZERO effect on boost.
how hard is it to take the intake snail off?
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,851
Likes: 3
From: Buckley, WA
are you using the skinny 1/8" plastic style tube? might try running a different set up with the larger vacuum or fuel rubber hose, just to see if the line is causing any issues.
if your smoking to much with one flat then you defiantly dont have enough air going through there, does the impeller spin free? maybe even try a cone filter set up
does your CDR leave oil residue on your intake/turbo? if so then you should be able to use a flashlight and mirror and see the back of the snail, you might even find some oil drips coming from it
ive heard on GAS motors if you have an intake leak and you spray some carb cleaner or brake cleaner around the intake gasket if it changes the idle then you found your problem....IM NOT SURE IF THAT WILL WORK ON DIESELS so dont try it unless you find out for sure
if your smoking to much with one flat then you defiantly dont have enough air going through there, does the impeller spin free? maybe even try a cone filter set up
does your CDR leave oil residue on your intake/turbo? if so then you should be able to use a flashlight and mirror and see the back of the snail, you might even find some oil drips coming from it
ive heard on GAS motors if you have an intake leak and you spray some carb cleaner or brake cleaner around the intake gasket if it changes the idle then you found your problem....IM NOT SURE IF THAT WILL WORK ON DIESELS so dont try it unless you find out for sure
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,322
Likes: 789
From: Mi'kma'ki
no boost until 2500 rpm.....no way i could live with that.id just run n/a lol.
did you upgrade to the banks DP yet?
when was the ip/injectors replaced?
how many miles on the turbo?
try retarding the timing one dimes width.
did you upgrade to the banks DP yet?
when was the ip/injectors replaced?
how many miles on the turbo?
try retarding the timing one dimes width.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,061
Likes: 2
are you using the skinny 1/8" plastic style tube? might try running a different set up with the larger vacuum or fuel rubber hose, just to see if the line is causing any issues.
if your smoking to much with one flat then you defiantly dont have enough air going through there, does the impeller spin free? maybe even try a cone filter set up
does your CDR leave oil residue on your intake/turbo? if so then you should be able to use a flashlight and mirror and see the back of the snail, you might even find some oil drips coming from it
ive heard on GAS motors if you have an intake leak and you spray some carb cleaner or brake cleaner around the intake gasket if it changes the idle then you found your problem....IM NOT SURE IF THAT WILL WORK ON DIESELS so dont try it unless you find out for sure
if your smoking to much with one flat then you defiantly dont have enough air going through there, does the impeller spin free? maybe even try a cone filter set up
does your CDR leave oil residue on your intake/turbo? if so then you should be able to use a flashlight and mirror and see the back of the snail, you might even find some oil drips coming from it
ive heard on GAS motors if you have an intake leak and you spray some carb cleaner or brake cleaner around the intake gasket if it changes the idle then you found your problem....IM NOT SURE IF THAT WILL WORK ON DIESELS so dont try it unless you find out for sure
the cold wheel spins free although i have never seen an example of a "good" one and a "bad" one.
CDR does leave oil residue in the air box box post filter and residue in the cold wheel. nothing crazy though. i did use a mirror to look around the entire snail and ZERO oil coming from around the snail gasket.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,061
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IP & injectors are under 10K miles.
PRETTY sure turbo is original so 208,xxx miles. but i don't know for sure.
i will try retarding the timing.
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