1986 CC 460 factory air.
New to me this year, P.O. said the air did work, then it didnt, a friend checked it, yada yada yada.

So, i have no idea where to start, although i have researched some really good threads here. I want to order my parts then get started on this.

Anyone have a parts list on what definitely needs replaced and what should be optional? I asuume i'll go to 134a, i would guess r12 in it now, if it wasnt all leaked out. I also already have a good compressor on standby if mine is shot.

Truck is mostly unmolested, so should be striaght forward.

 

I'm not a guru on this and I know we have some, but until they respond here are my thoughts. I would check to see how much charge you actually have - just to get a handle on how bad the leak may be. If you have some charge then you must not have a huge hole, so can proceed to replacing parts.

It is my understanding that you can replace just the orifice to convert to 134a. However, I would replace all the o-rings since you'll already have the system apart. And, maybe the receiver/dryer depending on cost. After all, the 134a is going to be fairly costly, so having to start all over if you have a leak or a bad dryer would be a shame.

 

thanks gary, i figured teh accumulator, i didnt know if i should just spring for the condenser and/or evap as well. Also, i wonder which size orings?

 

I know it's not the right way to do it but it worked for me, on 3 different vehicles including my truck. But they were all 134a already.

I would start the car and turn the A/C on max. Then I feed in 1 can of lubricant followed by a can of stop leak with dye in it. By this time the compressor usually has started to run. Then I would finish it off with a 134a till it reached the required pressure. I never found a leak on any of them, even though I used the stop leak with dye. Just every year or so I would have to top it off but usually no more than 1/2 can or so.

I don't know if it's something with the R12 systems that have been converted or what but this usually works for me. I read it on the web somewhere to try this before spending money on repairs and it worked.

Anyway, take it for what it's worth but my truck is still going strong after 2+ years.

 

The original accumulator is NOT compatible with r134a, the dessicant material is different. That has to be changed. It is recommended to go with one step smaller o-tube due to the density differences between r134a and r12, blue to red, red to orange, etc. The smallest I would use in a Ford is the Orange. You can hang sides of beef with an orange tube. Especially in hotter climates. Another choice is a variable orifice that can change as the outside climate changes. The cutoff switch is adjustable so replacement is not necessary. For max efficiency replace the condenser, all aftermarket units are now made to handle r134a. A full flush of the system is also best. Most parts suppliers can give you a reseal kit that has all the o-rings for the vehicle. Getting a hold of a vacum pump or recycling station is a must. On the 134, this time of year Big Lots is usually getting it in for around 8 bucks a can. Current street price on a 30lb can is 130-150 depending on the region. It is slowly going up as the season gets closer.

 

I TOLD you we have experts. Thanks, Matt.

 

You can't just "replace" things and expect it to work, unless you want to replace everything and have a new system. You probably have a minor leak somewhere, and you will just have to find it. The best way is to give it a quick going over and look for any A/C components or fittings that are oily or have dirt stuck to them from oil being on them. When you have a leak, the oil that lubricates the system leaks out with the refrigerant, and that's a good way to tell sometimes where the leak is. You may find it's oily around the shaft of the compressor, and that's a sign that the compressor seal has a leak.

So there is no way we can tell you what parts to replace to make it work. You need to find out how much refrigerant you have to see if it's low. If you can turn the A/C switch on and jump the low pressure switch with a jumper, and the compressor kicks in, then most likely you are low on refrigerant.

If you are low on refrigerant, and don't see any obvious leaks, I would go ahead and put refrigerant in it. You will first need to suck the old refrigerant out and pull a vacuum on it. You have your choice here; You can take it to a shop and pay them $200 or whatever it costs to pull a vacuum and put the refrigerant in it, or you can do what I did and go to Harbor freight and buy a vacuum pump for $80 and a r 134a gauge set for $50 and do it yourself.

You will find all kinds of advice on the internet, and if you go to a A/C shop they also may recommend replacing this or that to convert it to 134a, but I am like the other poster, I have converted several systems over, and didn't change a thing, and they work fine. I suck the system down with the vacuum pump for a hour or so, see if it holds vacuum for 15 minutes, if it does, I then put the r134a with the oil already in it in the system, and it cools fine for me. And even if I have a minor leak around the compressor seal, it usually lasts me the whole summer. Another little bit from a can the next summer and I am good again.

 

Well, according to Archion, I do need to replace a couple things first. Accumulator and orings and orifice tube since i'll be converting to 134a.
My dad has a recovery machine and the knowledge to charge, i was just wondering any items that are no-brainers for replacing, and i know that now.
Thanks.