Bent push rod?
The crankshaft needs to be rotated to a Certain spot before the Pushrods are installed
Cant remember what location it should be in though or why
I havent been that far into this truck but from the Gassers Iv done it dont matter what position the crank is in once you torq the Rocker Arms the pushrods/Valves go to the position they should be in
The crankshaft needs to be rotated to a Certain spot before the Pushrods are installed
Cant remember what location it should be in though or why
I havent been that far into this truck but from the Gassers Iv done it dont matter what position the crank is in once you torq the Rocker Arms the pushrods/Valves go to the position they should be in
Look about half way down it's on there about crank postioning
It's in the tech folder under PDF files, Then head removal.
I always rotate it to the 6 o'clock position torque head down to first setp, then rotate the engine 2 full turns , ending back at the 6 o'clock postion (by hand do not use the starter) to insure there is nothing binding up if it is binding up stop right there and figure out the problem. I do this for both heads. Then once I do the final torque I rotate it again 2 full rotations just to be sure everything is good.
There are many different ideas of why the 6 o'clock postion. Some say it's not nessesary, but I have always done it, and have never bent a rod. The only thing I know about the 6 o'clock postion is that at that point none of the pistons are at TDC.
Had a 7.3 come back on a hook, same exact sound....sounded like it was coming thru the airbox....was on the pass side w/a bent push rod.
Look about half way down it's on there about crank postioning
It's in the tech folder under PDF files, Then head removal.
I always rotate it to the 6 o'clock position torque head down to first setp, then rotate the engine 2 full turns , ending back at the 6 o'clock postion (by hand do not use the starter) to insure there is nothing binding up if it is binding up stop right there and figure out the problem. I do this for both heads. Then once I do the final torque I rotate it again 2 full rotations just to be sure everything is good.
There are many different ideas of why the 6 o'clock postion. Some say it's not nessesary, but I have always done it, and have never bent a rod. The only thing I know about the 6 o'clock postion is that at that point none of the pistons are at TDC.
Might be better off towing it....
Right off the bat, I would order the new push rod and rocker arm/assembly, I thought my rod was just bent, but the rocker was broken and I had to wait another day for parts.
Goodluck.
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To rotate the shaft, use a breaker bar and a 18MM socket on the blancer bolts turn it clockwise.
There is a tool from ford to remove the rocker arms and change push rods. I belave this is the correct one OTC , 303-1170 Rocker Arm Relase Tool
There is a certain rod that tipicaly gets bent read this thread for a better explanation on witch one and correct way to go about the problem Help! 6.0 problem after head stud install - Page 3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Just curious though...the rocker arms aren't too terribly expensive from Ford, so why does some aftermarket brand insist on pricing theirs at $2,500 on XDP?! Seems like you could go through SEVERAL factory sets before ever justifying that cost...









