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Preparing to work on turbo (again)

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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 02:40 PM
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Preparing to work on turbo (again)

Well from my previous postings I tried to remove the turbo out of my 04 F350 and didn't have much luck since both my back and side mounting bolts were stuck and needed more time to break them off. Unfortunally I didn't get a chance to take it off but went ahead and put everything back together and she's working ok at the moment.

Well in the next few weeks after I get the hardware and seal kits I'll be trying to get the turbo out and clean it and then re-install to get some of the power back. I've been trying to find some good pads to clean the turbo with, I bought a Dremel with some sanding discs and other disc.

Has anyone used a Dremel to clean the housing and everything around the turbo?
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 05:07 PM
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Jon i used a dremel to along with a right angle die grinder , the dremel pads wear out really fast . The die grinder with the sctoch brite pads work the best, you have to cut one down to fit between the pins on the housing .
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 06:16 PM
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Since your Turbo mounting bolts are seized and Cooked in there good Use a 6 point wrench to break them free might even be best to have a helper to hold the wrench on the bolt while you push the wrench with a big bar or something

DONT use a Socket with ratchet to break free it will round the bolts off especialy the Rear Bolt.

A socket on the feront bolts may work on the front ones since you can see to hold it on there straight I used a socket that I ground so it would fulley seat on the bolt with 3-4 extensions on it slipped inbetween the wire harness and stuff in the road to get it to a point that I could get a GOOD Crank on it
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Since your Turbo mounting bolts are seized and Cooked in there good Use a 6 point wrench to break them free might even be best to have a helper to hold the wrench on the bolt while you push the wrench with a big bar or something

DONT use a Socket with ratchet to break free it will round the bolts off especialy the Rear Bolt.

A socket on the feront bolts may work on the front ones since you can see to hold it on there straight I used a socket that I ground so it would fulley seat on the bolt with 3-4 extensions on it slipped inbetween the wire harness and stuff in the road to get it to a point that I could get a GOOD Crank on it
I think I said that twice. He will get it! Use lots of PB blaster.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006powerstroke90
I think I said that twice. He will get it! Use lots of PB blaster.
I thought so but couldnt remember them bolts can be a PIA mine was never again will it have that rear bolt LOL
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by wulfman
Jon i used a dremel to along with a right angle die grinder , the dremel pads wear out really fast . The die grinder with the sctoch brite pads work the best, you have to cut one down to fit between the pins on the housing .
Well unfortunally I don't have a right angle die grinder, currently I have the dremel, a rigid multi tool, and my dewalt drill/driver and impact.

Whats the best pads that I can get for all of these, of course with the dremel I can go to lowes or home depot and get excellent quanitity of pads which I'll just need to get the right pads.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 08:09 PM
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Should be able to get some pads that fit your Drill that work Good or the same as a 90* grinder

The right angle driver just easy to control but no Big Deal breaker IMO
 
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 07:23 AM
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I picked up some Scotch Brite Roloc brake rotor cleaning pads, http://www.automotivetoolsonline.com...asp?catid=they come with an arbor that has a hole in the center and makes quick work of cleaning around the pins. Like 20 bucks. and this flat scotch pad tool from harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of...scs-99985.html 10 bucks, got the job done quick with a cordless drill.
 

Last edited by mtnxtreme800; Mar 25, 2012 at 07:32 AM. Reason: add
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