I wanted to share some turbo removal instructions with anyone on here who is worried about how hard it is to remove the turbo. Please be sure to share any info you have on removal.

And, well, I'ma tell you up front. If it has not been removed in a while, I hope your strong and have some time.

I've included a picture of all the tools you'll need for turbo removal except for some sorta breaker bar or board.

You'll need a pipe for your wrench to help break the exhaust bolts loose.
And a board to pry on the wrench for the other exhaust bolts.

13 mm socket, 10 mm socket, 10 mm wrench, 1/4 inch swivel, extensions and a 15mm wrench.

This should be all the tools you need. The pry bar helps for the pass side rear pedestal bolt. You will have to take that one out last, and you need to pick up on the turbo to do it, so you wedge it in between the exhaust housing and the turbo exhaust intake to lift it up.

Having removed my turbo and installed in about 5 times in the last week while dorking around with things and my upgrades, I've got pretty good at this.

 

One of the more important things to remember is to soak the bolts with PB blaster on the exhaust coupler. or whatever you want to call it.
These suckers are gonna be pretty rusty up.

Secondly. You want to remove the lower 15 mm bolts before you remove the top bolts.
This is important!!!!!
If you take out the top 13 mm bolts first, the 15mm bolts will not come out as easy. the top bolts keep it held together. So take them bottom ones out first.

Lots of people have made some fancy tools on here, and yes, they would probably help, but you can do it with just a 15 mm wrench and some sort of board to wedge in there for some leverage to break it loose.

Its tough, but if you have the right bend on your 15mm wrench, it will be easy.

Really easy if you have a ratcheting one that has a pivot on it.

You can pick up a Gear Wrench at Lowes pretty cheap for this.

I remove the rear turbo bolts first as well.
You can reach the back drivers side one with the 1/4 inch 10 mm socket and the swivel and some extensions.
Its tough with the EBPV housing there, but doable.

For a few extra dollars, you can pick up another gear wrench at Lowest with the pivot and ratchet for the pass side, which is the hard one.
I'll loosen this one first to break it loose and get it up, then take out the front 2 pedestal bolts.
Then you can raise the pededstal up to get the back bolt out.

And viola, its out!

 

Wiliam,
Thanks to share that, the tips are very important in this cases. Reps sent.

 

Thanks for the write-up. Subscribed and reps, especially since I'll be doing this in the next month or so.

 

I'll gladly answer questions.

I have an EBPV delete article I'm working on as well.

I"m a bit short on pictures, and nobody seems to have them.

In my opinion. if you pull the turbo, you should remove the EBPV.

 

I didn't bother removing the pedestal this time. Since I put anti-seize on the bolts, nuts for the exhaust and EBPV it was so much easier coming off this time.
The four bolts on the bottom of the turbo aren't too bad to get to with a modified 5/16" combo. All I did was grinded off the open end part seemed to work pretty good. Plus when you go to put it back on the bolts are already in place since they can't go anywhere

 

so everybody is all against the EBPV... Why don't more people leave the stock EBPV in and rewire it to use it as an exhaust brake? I understand that the housing being on the pedestal makes it a pain to get that rear bolt, but seems easier and cheaper than buying the $600 EBPV from whomever and putting it in place of the stock one... which is kind of retarded sounding to me... unless of course there is a viable reason for it..?

 

Can you please, elaborate more about the grinding part?, any pic? . Thanks

I use as an exhaust brake and Im very happy with it. I know that several people do the same with good results.

 

The reason you remove the EBPV is because its a big leak waiting to happen on the pedestal.

When you actually realize what is keeping your oil from pouring out the end of that hole where the rod comes out, you'll freak. If the spring iniside is weakened, then it does not keep the hole sealed.

Thats where I lost 6 qt's in 4 hours.

As for the turbo EPBV removal, have you seen how big that thing is?

its a 1/2 inch rod with a 1/8th inch butter fly on it.
Its a HUGE exhaust restriction.

To use it as an exhaust brake, you have to have your RPM's up high, and a TQ lock up installed.
I believe I read that it will not have any effect under 1800 RPM's.

Cooler EGT's as well from butterfly being removed.
50-100 Degree cooler.

I say remove it, its just a leak and a problem waiting to happen as it did for me.


However he got the pedestal out, I have no idea. Fuel pump in the way from my recollection.