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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 05:57 AM
  #1  
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Hot Wheel!

I noticed a burning smell when I had been driving for a while. I pinpointed it today, after I spotted smoke rising from the front passenger side wheel.
I took off the tire and the caliper and noted the worn inner brake pad. There was so much friction here that the heat spread all throughout the contact area (rotor, caliper, spindle, spindle cap, rims, lug nuts & hub cap were all scorchingly hot!) I had to cool all the parts down with water before I could remove anything.
I'm assuming that the source of the friction is the brake pad(s) meeting the rotor. Something tells me, however, that the generation of this much heat from such contact is atypical.
Since the pads wore quite unevenly, what might this suggest? Caliper problems? The need for a new rotor?
I bought a new set of brake pads and plan on installing them later on today but wanted some feedback.

P.S. the burning smell was, I'm thinking, high temp. axle grease that I used to pack the wheel bearing.

P.P.S. the worst-worn pad wasn't worn right through to the metal.....there was still maybe a quarter of an inch of pad left.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 06:16 AM
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Your caliper piston is not retracting or is completely frozen and not moving.

I would suggest changing the caliper, pads and rotor since the pads are worn and probably baked to crud (pad material actually does its final cure as you use your brakes) and the rotors have been heated very hot and quenched (when you sprayed the water) amd are probably warped or at least more suseptable to it now.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 08:04 AM
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Sticky parking brake adjuster/unequal tension will cause unequal wear/high heat on side that has too much tension...& if you check the rotors runnout with discard thickness, it should verify if they're warped as stated above....you' ll have piece of mind soon i hope...good luck!
 
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 08:27 AM
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I agree uneven pad wear with massive heat is a sticking caliper and frozen caliper slides not evenly distributing pressure between the pads, warped rotor, uneven pad wear resulting, your truck should have been pulling to one side and maybe a shuttering effect

Was it hard to spin the wheel up in the air?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 08:28 AM
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FRONT wheel...CAliper not sliding on track or puck stuck in caliper. If disc is burnt/ blue it probably is warped. I would replace caliper and disc and pads. CLean and wire brush all other.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 08:32 AM
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From: Olathe
Originally Posted by kidzstang
Your caliper piston is not retracting or is completely frozen and not moving.

I would suggest changing the caliper, pads and rotor since the pads are worn and probably baked to crud (pad material actually does its final cure as you use your brakes) and the rotors have been heated very hot and quenched (when you sprayed the water) amd are probably warped or at least more suseptable to it now.
This 100% its too risky to not to do.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 11:05 AM
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If the brake hose which runs to the caliper gets old and worn out, it may collapse and prevent the caliper from retracting. Make sure you check the hoses before you install all new parts only to have it happen again.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 10:07 PM
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Ok, thanks for the responses. I'm going to have to get new rotors and calipers. KBsupercrew: the truck has definitely been pulling to the right; the tire seemed to spin alright in the air.
Can the caliper be serviced? And should I replace the calipers and rotors on both sides? Might I get away with buying only one caliper, provided the other one seems to be working ok?
Cheers,

-Mike
 
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 10:37 PM
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Also, would a misaligned tire contribute to uneven pad wear/caliper trouble? I have noticed the tire in question is "toed in". I replaced the upper control arms a while back, maybe they need adjusting?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 10:47 PM
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I would change the rotors and pads both sides so you have equal thicknesses of pads and rotors and only the one caliper, hopefully your line isnt too badly rusted for the change over, dont forget the anti-sieze for the hub to rotor, I use the kind in the spray can it works well for me

Be sure to double check the caliper slides on the other side for free movement when you change the pads
 
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 06:52 AM
  #11  
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New rotors and pads for both sides and a new caliper for the passenger side. I have to wait til 9 am for Canadian Tire to open and I'm on my way.

Many thanks for the help. I'll let you know how things go.

-Mike
 
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 07:45 AM
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The caliper can be serviced but you'd need some special tools so most people now adays just replace them.

You don't need to change out the caliper that is working correctly. If it's working, it's working and a new one won't change anything.

It's customary but not required to change pads on both sides at the same time. That's why they are sold with both sides together.

Whether you change the other rotor is up to you and for me would depend on it's overall condition.

As an aside, it may be a.good time to purge out the hydraulic lines with new fluid.


Originally Posted by BruceJeremy
Ok, thanks for the responses. I'm going to have to get new rotors and calipers. KBsupercrew: the truck has definitely been pulling to the right; the tire seemed to spin alright in the air.
Can the caliper be serviced? And should I replace the calipers and rotors on both sides? Might I get away with buying only one caliper, provided the other one seems to be working ok?
Cheers,

-Mike
 
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 07:49 AM
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The short answer to your question is no. They have nothing to do with each other. However if your alignment is out it'll create other problems like an empty wallet after buying tires more often than one needs to.



Originally Posted by BruceJeremy
Also, would a misaligned tire contribute to uneven pad wear/caliper trouble? I have noticed the tire in question is "toed in". I replaced the upper control arms a while back, maybe they need adjusting?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 05:19 PM
  #14  
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The brakes are good to go. Thanks for your input, much appreciated.

-Mike
 
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