front brake rotor

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Jul 1, 2005 | 05:38 PM

roree

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Joined: Dec 2003

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From: staten island

front brake rotor

Hi all. Tomorrow I will be replacing the passenger side front rotor. The new rotor is about $40 and directionally vented. This is my first Aerostar rotor. Anything special I need to know? Anyone have any tips or caveats? Thanks, and yes, I will put in new pads too.

Jul 1, 2005 | 11:28 PM

96_4wdr

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Joined: Apr 2005

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From: Washington state

I would do both left and right rotor and pads to keep front braking balanced for safety in emergency stops.
Doing only one side results in substancial difference in braking power, different friction cooeficient of rotor and new pad compared to old side even after breakin period. One side will care most of the braking load and most of the heating, dangerous in rain, towing or and freeway panic stops with both feet buried on the pedal from 75 down to 0 in 200 ft. There is no anti lock brake system on the front of Aerostars so one is relying on performance balance of components.
Check calipers carefully for any corrosion and heat damage especially to the outer seal.
Clean rotor with brake cleaner and dont touch braking surface with hands, body oils on fingers contaminate pads and rotors.
Use new caliper pin locks and lube with high temp brake grease

Jul 11, 2005 | 11:32 PM

AerostarDad

Tuned

Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 325

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From: B.C.Canada, EH?

""TORQUE"" the wheel nuts to 100 ft/lbs ONLY!!!! I can't stress this enough!!! Not torquing (using an impact gun)the lugs will GUARANTEE the rotors will warp!!!!

Jul 13, 2005 | 06:10 AM

agelder

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From: Acworth, GA

I agree that you will need to do both, and when you remove the rotors you should go ahead and repack the bearings. Messy, but it needs to be done. Other than that, it's pretty straightforward, make sure you have a punch of some sort on hand to drive out the caliper pins.

Jul 13, 2005 | 01:01 PM

JTHill24

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Joined: Aug 2002

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From: Orland USA

I use a 9" 3/8 drive extension & a rubber mallet to knock out the caliper pins.
The extension has a flat end so it dosn't slip and it fits inside where the pin
sets so you can knock it all the way through.

Jay

Aug 9, 2005 | 08:15 PM

teg3

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Joined: Mar 2004

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From: colorado

also remember to put the lubricant on the pad for the noise reduction and squuk of the new pads and rotor.

Aug 10, 2005 | 12:29 PM

VanGo

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Joined: Apr 2005

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From: Wichita

Quote:

Originally Posted by agelder

It's a little late since the original post is dated in July but just FYI; You need to do more than just repack the bearings because the new rotor will come with a new bearing race. To do the job right, you should replace the bearings as well so that the surfaces will wear together correctly.

It's like the rule for replacing lifters when you instal a new camshaft. The two wear together. Unmatched surfaces will wear prematurely