I am swapping the springs on a 2005 V10 with 100k miles. Not just due to mileage, but to improve handling and safety. I tow a 5000lb boat and may rent a trailer (8-9k lbs) once every other year or so. 99% of the time it is my wife's daily driver hauling our 3 kids.

Is there a significant ride difference between the B and B mod setup? I am leaning heavily toward the B mod for additional safety and stability. I would be curious to hear why you chose one over the other and how happy you are!

V springs will be go in front either way.

 

I don't think there is a ride difference. The reason people do the B mod is to raise the rear to match the front (after the V code install) without replacing the blocks.

The V code install raised my front about 1 1/2". The modified B code install raised the rear 2". I'm very happy with the stance of the truck now.

 

Yea I think the mod b is just a cheaper way to accomplish the same thing.

Like me, at the time I had money for v codes, I didn't have enough for b codes. So I bought a set of blocks from a member here. I plan on adding b codes when taxes come in.

 

I did the V/Modded B and gained 2" all around. I did it so the trailer I tow (heavy tongue weight) wouldn't sag the rear too much when towing.

LOVE the ride now, and the steering wander is gone.

 

If I go with and mod B codes, but want a the rear a little higher than the front ~0.5 to 1.0 inch, what block should I get? also, would a F250 rear U bolts long enough for the mod B?

 

I used the F-250 u-bolts with b mod and stock blocks and had to cut a bit off them.

 

What blocks will give me an additional 0.5 to 1 inch higher than the front? and will the F250 bolts length long enough?

Thanks,

 

It's like this...measure the thickness of the two bottom leaves of the stock springs - that is roughly how much additional lift you will get over the regular B code springs.

I run the V's in front and Modded B's in back on the stock blocks. I run with about 200-250lbs in the rear all the time. Without that weight I'd have a slight rake (maybe 1/2" to 3/4"), with the weight I sit at level to 1/4" of rake. With another 760lbs or so on the elongated hitch ball, I sit about 1/4" down in the rear.

My end goal is to limit the amount of 'squat' I have at any time. If I were to get taller blocks, unloaded I'd have a lot of rake. I want minimum rake and minimum sag, so I'll eventually add RAS to the rear. If I'm still too tall, I'll get shorter blocks.

IMO, if you get taller blocks alone, you are adding rake that gets 'sucked up' when you tow or haul a lot of weight. If you mod your B's and/or add RAS, you can limit how much rake you get and also limit the loss of rake when towing or hauling.

As for U bolts - I (and a lot of others) have found it's cheaper to have your U bolts made than buy them from Ford...they run about half as much. A local suspension shop can probably bend them for you in about 15 minutes. I was able to get mine about 1 1/2" longer than stock and I didn't need to cut any down. If you are worried, get longer ones and just cut off the excess (they are threaded so far down that you don't risk "running out of thread").

 

Thank you Robert,

I have not ask all the Springs shop around here yet, but the one I saw so far only swap out with after market. Guess I have to look for the real specialty shop to know if they do make the bolts.

Thanks again

 

Yup...look for custom suspension shops (ask the local rat rod or custom shops, they will probably know who does custom fab work). In all of Sac only one came up as 'common knowledge'...in Vegas I bet there is at least one.

 

I will probably have Eaton Detroit Spring Home do mine..They have 'rolled' threads which are stronger than cut threads. I had them do the U-bolts for us when we lifted my buddy's toy hauler fifth wheel.

 

Just curious...if you don't mind, take a pic of the ones they make you. The ones I had made had a finer pitch on the threads than the stock bolts. Wondering if "rolled" threads will be finer or as coarse as the OEM bolts.