Shes at it AGAIN!
Okay, so I am relatively certain i have an air intrusion problem. If i let my truck sit for more than 2 hours Its a mufu to get it started again. Funny thing is, when i go to turn it over, it will fire up for about 2.5 secs then die (do to lack of fuel) and then im cranking for probably 45 secs total crank time ( do it for about 15 secs at a time giving the starter time to cool down. Finally ill start to hear a glug, glug, then she fires. The WTS light is coming on and staying on 10-12 secs. The glow plugs are less than 2 weeks old. I think the problem is this F***ing S***ty *** F***ing damn sH**ted up return line system absolutely terrible design. 
I have two questions, is there a "better" way to do my return lines without having to use cheesy plastic caps and these halfassed clamps? I was thinking about using those clamps you can use a screw driver on and torquing them down would that make a difference? And how beneficial would it be to have an electric pump, a relative cost range to installing it as well.

I have two questions, is there a "better" way to do my return lines without having to use cheesy plastic caps and these halfassed clamps? I was thinking about using those clamps you can use a screw driver on and torquing them down would that make a difference? And how beneficial would it be to have an electric pump, a relative cost range to installing it as well.
Oh, and btw, a friend of mine that I car pull at work keeps giving me a hard time about a "check valve on the pump or somewhere" that is leaking or failing. Does this deserve consideration? I havent heard of a check valve i guess that would be a simple fix.
yep air intrusion. have you replaced you return lines, caps, & o-rings yet? if not that is most likely your problem. when they don't leek they work great. i have not had any issues with mine and i have worked around them and moved them and all is good.
there is the fuel selector valve i think the name is along the driver side frame rail on the inside back by the tanks.
there is the fuel selector valve i think the name is along the driver side frame rail on the inside back by the tanks.
Yeah, i replaced all the return lines, and caps, and ****ing orings. BAH! Im abouta give up hahaahaha. No, I think it just dawned on me what the problem is. I think i may have reused the old O-Rings. Come to think of it, I think thats exactly what I did. I was wondering why I had an extra bag of O-Rings laying in my truck. Well **** me. I guess Ill be redoing that tonight. Im an idiot and need not say more.
Haha feel free to say it yourself, this little incident of mine was pretty idiotic. Atleast i can admit I know some people that would blame it on someone else or something else and its good to laugh at yourself every now and a good while. Oh well.
don't feel bad man. i have been there. i needed to get some brake line for my truck. first time i went to the store i go the right length but it had the wrong fittings, i go back, get the right fittings but the new one was WAY to long. i noticed that AFTER i got back home. so i go back this time fittings were right and length was right.
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Haha, That would be a good thread, "Compilation of all the FAILS you have committed." Btw, would this be a good starter for my truck, its 91 F350, 7.3 L E40D. eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
lol!
i tell ya what,after buying my truck and reading these countless threads of miserable air leaks/draining back of fuel,i didn't even think twice.i ripped out the stock lift pump for an e-pump before i put mine on the road.
just remember when your busy cranking and swearing,it could be worse.you could be a 6.0h no owner with real issues.
i tell ya what,after buying my truck and reading these countless threads of miserable air leaks/draining back of fuel,i didn't even think twice.i ripped out the stock lift pump for an e-pump before i put mine on the road.
just remember when your busy cranking and swearing,it could be worse.you could be a 6.0h no owner with real issues.
Im glad you got a good chuckle out of it
. But could yo ucheck out that starter and tell me if it would be compatible with my truck and if its a dcent one to get. I thought these things were alot more expensive than this therefore im a little uneasy about this one.
Also, can you remember a round about price on what it cost you to put that E pump in?
. But could yo ucheck out that starter and tell me if it would be compatible with my truck and if its a dcent one to get. I thought these things were alot more expensive than this therefore im a little uneasy about this one.Also, can you remember a round about price on what it cost you to put that E pump in?
To answer your question regarding the starter, you have to get the right tooth count, To be 100% you need the tooth count from the old starter. They will all bolt up into the same hole but cause real issues when you go to use them. Whats wrongwith the starterin the truck?
Haha! Don't worry. I'm laughing WITH you, not at you. Definitely done some bone-headed stuff like that myself.
Here's a thread I made where I got some great advice on the return line job, including a few tips of my own from doing it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tructions.html
Hope it helps,
Mike
Here's a thread I made where I got some great advice on the return line job, including a few tips of my own from doing it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tructions.html
Hope it helps,
Mike
Yeah, the return system is kind of a **** poor design. I like the Mercedes Benz style return system. It has a nipple on each side of the injector you attach a return hose to. No O-rings or caps to fart around with. The only leak you could have is a bad hose or poor connection. I have been contemplating somehow welding on hose nipples to IDI injectors and running a similar system but it might be too tedious for welding. The return holes are small and so would be the nipple.
Yeah, the return system is kind of a **** poor design. I like the Mercedes Benz style return system. It has a nipple on each side of the injector you attach a return hose to. No O-rings or caps to fart around with. The only leak you could have is a bad hose or poor connection. I have been contemplating somehow welding on hose nipples to IDI injectors and running a similar system but it might be too tedious for welding. The return holes are small and so would be the nipple.
VW also put a clear hose between the filter and the pump so you could see right away if there was air in the system or crud in the line.







