Hi guys -

I've done searches, and have found all sorts of EXCELLENT advice on everything there is to know about return lines and o-rings (viton #111, vaseline, olives, oh my!), but what I'm hoping someone may have is a link to step-by-step instructions, preferably with pics. This is my first diesel and my first time doing this job, so I'm pretty nervous about it (especially after reading all the horror stories about those who have done it only to have things go from bad to worse).

I'll also be doing the glow plugs at the same time, so any detailed instructions for that as well would be great. Bonus points for anyone who has tips/tricks on doing the ones that are tough to get at, especially with a Banks kit installed.

And really, ANY advice you could lend would help. Dumb it down as much as you like!

Mike

 

I guess there's not a detailed step-by-step procedure anywhere because it's really simple, you'll see.

Loosen the nut on each injector with a wrench. I want to say they're 5/8".

Pull up on the injector line enough to pull the plastic return cap up and off of the injector.

Proceed like this and remove the old return lines in big pieces - driver's side chain and passenger side chain.

Then cut new fuel hose the same length as the old ones, and reproduce the "chains" exactly as they appear but with new pieces.

Pull all of the old O-rings off. If you remove the bottom one first, you can roll it over the top one. Otherwise, the bottom one will slip into the top groove and you'll have to dig it out again.

Lubricate all new o-rings. I just used ATF. Really, any sort of oil will work.

Roll the new o-rings into place.

Install the new return line "chains" you made earlier. Push down gently on each plastic cap until you hear it "pop" into place. The better lubricated that the caps are, the easier this will be.

Push the injector lines back into place and tighten each one.

Many people also replace the "olives" when doing this. They are not part of the return line system, but they go inside of the line between the fuel filter and IP (I think). I haven't ever replaced these so I'm not sure how to.

-Matt

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7390771

was easy for me to find.i remember who wrote it and did an advanced search.im a cheater.

doh!
good job there too Matt.

 

Use a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/4" extention with 1/4" universal joint and 1/4" drive 3/8" deep socket in that order that is the ticket.

Use a shop vac with a funnel on the end to clean around the glow plugs before you remove them so you dont get curd in your cylinder.

 

do not over tighten the injector nuts you can mis-shape them and they will always leak instead tighten and loosen them a small ammount 3 times progressively, getting them tighter every time it will make a good seat that way.

 

use a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/4" extention with 1/4" universal joint and 1/4" drive 3/8" deep socket in that order that is the ticket.

 

So, getting the old lines off and new ones on seems straight-forward. What about bleeding/priming the system once everything is on? Also, if you were doing both these jobs, what order would you do it in? Glow plugs first, then return lines? Or other way around? Or GPs while return lines are off?

Mike

 

Ok about the Banks kit... remove everything accept the turbo and the air box mount and soak your cdr valve overnight in gasoline while you are at it.

also a affrin nose spray cap works awesome for sliding on your o rings so you dont cut them on the injector threads.

 

Remove the return lines just thread, dont tighten the injector caps so you dont get crud in your injectors, do the glow plugs then install the new return lines, bleading the system just crank over the engine a few times before you tighten the 7 and 8 cylinder the last half turn you will see diesel coming from the top of the injector cap when it is primed then tighten them down.

 

Remove the return lines just thread, dont tighten the injector caps, do the glow plugs then install the new return lines, bleading the system just crank over the engine a few times before you tighten the 7 and 8 cylinder the last half turn you will see diesel coming from the top of the injector cap when it is primed then tighten them down.

 

I use high heat anti-seize on the GP threads I think there is a torque spec on the GP's too I will dig around and try and find it for ya'

 

OK, complete newb question. What's a CDR valve?

Mike

 

Crankcase Depression Regulator ... On a gasser it's called a PCV Valve!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

The CDR is open to the crankcase. It's supposed to allow the pressure in the crankcase to equilibrate. Inevitably, oil will find it's way into the CDR and clog up the valve over time. A dirty CDR will allow oil into the intake, which will cause you to burn oil. It's not a huge deal but if it's bad enough, it can raise the cylinder temperatures and cause head gaskets to fail. I think that's pretty rare though.

Mostly it just requires you to top off the oil more often. Soaking it with gas dissolves all the oil and crud that has settled on the valve over time.

If your CDR is original, though, just replace it. I don't remember for sure, but I want to say I paid $40 for mine.

-Matt

 

Ok I cany fint a difinative answer but the concensus it 12 ft lbs on your GP's, sounds about right to me.

Read this before you remove the GP's
"Glow plug removal article"