So Ive been reading through a lot of the posts on here about the same problem. I have a little different experience so here we go:

1995 F250. 5.8L Auto. 93k miles. Just picked it up off a friends dad, it has the original plugs wires cap and everything. Truck sat for about a year before I got my hands on it. Changes the oil before start up. Fired it up and let it idle for about 6-7 mins until it stalled. Trying to start it again, it wouldnt fire. No chugs or burps or anything. After letting it sit for maybe 15 minutes, I got it to start again and drove it home.

Since then I have had a few stall-outs; it feels as though the entire ignition is getting cut... but all in all the truck runs good for being all original and 20 years old. This morning I fired it up... started easier than usual.. let it warm up, backed it up to the trailer and shut it down to get loaded. That was the last time it had any kind of fire in the cylinders. Replaced the fuel filter; not it. Pulled the coil wire and checked it with a light... not it.

Heres my question; when checking the coil wire... I get a steady light when cranking the engine over. Ive read that it is supposed to blink as the ignition would be firing... is this correct? From this point, I can so for sure its either in the dist. or the plugs/wires. And since this was a running or not running scenario, and not a rough running scenario, id say the plugs and wires most likely arent the culprit

Im thinking it may be the PIP... time for a new distributer?

 

It has the original plug wires, cap etc, and it's been sitting for the past year or so... I would start with a tune-up first before replacing the distributor; plugs, wires, rotor and cap. If it still has issues, take your ignition control module to an auto parts store and have it tested. Most places that can test it, will test it for free.

 

Did the plugs, wires, cap and rotor.. still nothing. Seems to begetting no spark to any cylinders. Im going after the PIP next

 

I would take Matt's advice to have the ICM tested first since its easy to remove and a have tested. I've seen it go both ways, the PIP and ICM when bad share the same symtoms.

 

Good info here: SBFTech.com TFI Module/Hall Sensor Testing Procedure

And more here: 30 Minute Ignition System Test for Remote Mounted TFI Bronco - FSB Forums

But wait.....there's more: Part 1 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Fender Mounted Module (ICM).

Haynes repair manual has a fantastic ignition diagnosis procedure too.

 

If you replace the ICM do not let them sell you a Gray one.
They will try to tell you that is what it takes, do not believe them.
It must be Black in color or you will set a code and you will have less power and lower MPG.

But the Black ICM very seldom goes bad so it is more than likely the PIP sensor.
Test the PIP sensor with an LED before replacing the distributor.

 

Ok took the ICM off and brought it to autozone.... they ran a test on it and said it indeed was the problem.

Get home, hook it up, nothing. So thats going back tomorrow

Im pretty sure its the PIP sensor now, dont know what else it would be....how do I go about testing this? Im not too sure what an LED light is

 

Does anyone have a part number for this sensor?

 

Clicky----> 30 Minute Ignition System Test for Remote Mounted TFI Bronco - FSB Forums

 

Motorcraft DU50

 

LED Test Light:

/

 

Ok checked the PIP sensor with LED light and that seems to be the problem... Ill let you know when its taken care of.

Can this part be had at a local napa?

Thanks!

 

Echlin MP716

or

Mileage Plus MP716SB

 

Ok replaced the entire distributor and the truck runs! Bas PIP is what it was.

Now it seems the truck had more power before the tune up..... Ive read the timing is 10* but is that retarded or advanced?

 

10 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC)...that is consider advanced.

Thanks for reporting back with the root cause and resolution.