That's where I was going with that. dieselfiltersonline.com has the best price on the racor pump.

I had an issue this winter around 0 degrees where my truck seemed to be gelling up, the fuel bowl was empty. I didn't have a fuel pressure gauge yet but dumped in my bottle of diesel 911 and then the truck was fine. I pumped out all of the fuel and refilled with straight #1 and didn't have issues. A few weeks later with the snowmobiles in tow the fuel pressure started dropping off again and this was again winterized fuel. Another bottle of 911 and it cleared up. The fuel pressure was dropping a bit under 40psi on warm days at WOT. Replaced the fuel pump and never had issues again. Your pump is probably getting weak. Razzi will concur with me ToreadorDiesel

 

I picked up a new blue spring kit at the Ford dealer today. They were able to knock the price down to about $10 more than I could get online. That was great since apparently blue spring kits can no longer be shipped to CA legally!! Total BS, but hey it's CA so go figure.

Installed new kit and pressure slowly crawled to 58ish, which was after purging air with cycling the key. Then after a short time idleing I was about to go for a cruise and suddenly the pressures dropped and went back up...fluctuating between 40-55. Started bouncing really weird. Turned off truck and waited a few. Turned key on and the fuel pump sounded like it was struggling. It sounded like it was literally dying with some funky sounds.

Don't have time to wait for one to be delivered so picked up a pump locally. I will toss that baby in tomorrow morning.

This all blows right now because I just loaded the Atlas 40 and haven't really been able to see how it feels yet. I did romp on it a bit while watching the pressures earlier and the truck did want to scoot a bit more than normal!

 

Stupid double post...so I'll add that I used the 6.0 to pick up my ATF to do the '08 trans pan swap hopefully tomorrow after the fuel pump

 

yup poor little pump... if it wasnt for the fact it started running rough i was going to ask what kind of gauge you were running...

 

I first had a mechanical in the engine bay from a hose extension toward the firewall. Installed an Auber 2813 dual channel so I can do fuel and EGT. Since the Auber install I noticed fuel pressures acting funny. I left my mechanical in the loop and confirmed my Auber was reading the same as the mechanical. So pump goes in tomorrow!

 

thats why i have the mechanical sitting right on my regulator.. digital in the cab and another mechanical attached to a 8ft long line so if need be i can attach it and bring a mechanical in cab to see what its doing down the road when trouble shooting... while i prefer mechanical gauges.. i dont care for bringing fuel lines into the cab.. ive had enough problems with oil lines leaking inside the cab on my old truck... i dont want a repeat with fuel inside the cab..


on another note i am enjoying my new boost gauge... but i already miss the recall feature my old one had that this one does not.. but will just have to get use to it i suppose.. seems to read more accurately too.. lol and quicker to respond..

 

Where do you tap into the fuel pressure?

Richard

 

Yeah, with all the fuel sender issues I figured leave in for now. I will probably do the same with an additional hose to be able to run to the window if needed outside the cab. Fuel lines inside the cab make me crazy nervous.

Forgot to mention that I used my new fuel pressure tool I built with the .047 orifice to replicate WOT while idleing. Worked exactly the same with the same results as an actual WOT run, because I checked.

What boost gauge you go with? I'm thinking of doing another Auber, but just single channel for that. I'm using Torque and FORScan for everything else.

 

on mine i have an "altered" fuel setup... my regulator is sitting over near the alternator... which i have a summit racing mechanical gauge mounted right to it.. off the factory test port i have a t fitting off a 4 ft hose mounted to the air box where the electrical gauge is plugged into but i can pull the cap off the other end of the T to hook my other mechanical gauge to for diagnostics..

the one i have under the hood they said not to leave connected because of the vibrations tend to cause them to go bad.. but figured they did it for years on carbed gassers with no issues... diesels not gonna hurt it..

If you dont count the Scangauge on top the dash which i could never get the boost reading to work right on that.. same with the trans temp...

in my pod on the floor I use to run Glowshift gauge but it gave me nothing but problems since putting it in.. i would have liked to of put in a TelTek like my fuel pressure gauge but i didnt want to spend the money for it..so i just bought a not super cheap but not expensive Autometer one.. Cobalt Mechanical series is what i got.. 0-60psi full sweep 2-1/16 dia.. if i remember right it was about $80ish from summit..

what bums me out though was during the install of the boost gauge my trans temp gauge somehow shorted out.. so now i gotta replace that... ohh well ill just switch it over to a TelTek when i get the $$ together..

 

Nice. Thanks for the info. I initially had a snubber before the mechanical gauge, but it's now before the pressure sending unit. The mechanical is a liquid filled and wasn't too expensive so I figured it'll work for now as a secondary check. I'm going to reconfigure it all once I get this pump done.

 

i looked into the snubbers across other forums but decided it wasnt needed... it really seems to be personal opinion on them... some seemed to like it because it was thought to be needed.. but on ours what people have found out is it was really un-nessasary... Cummins seem to require it because of their fuel setup.. so from what i read i just went without it since it wasnt needed... readings have been just fine..

 

With me though, no matter what I decide it will be the wrong one...lol. Figured for $20 I would at least be able to say it's there since I've read about so many fuel sender issues.

 

It's good to know that it works as it should.

I agree with you. A snubber is more for when you have pulsations in the fluid that
you measuring. It keeps the needle from doing wild swings with the pressure waves
in the fluid. I also understand that is helps the gauge last longer by reducing the needle vibrations.

 

mine fluctuates a little but i feel thats more fords setup than the gauge.. i dunno why.. everyone here says they get nice steady pressure readings off that test port... but i dont.. regulators set to 70.. gauge there sits steady.. never budges.. electric ones in the test port, 66,68,73,70, 63,65,70,68.. ect ect.. its like the pumps not keeping up or something to keep steady pressure when its running. mechanical i saw the same thing just not as wild as the electric ones.. since doing the RR it hasnt been as bad.. almost wonder if i need to go with a Fass or airdog pump..

 

I can't remember if it was this thread or the coffee or wine one, but I got out of the truck and smelled hot brakes. My driver's side rear wheel was extremely hot.
I've never had brake issues before, so not sure what I need to look for.