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Finally, got to install my upgraded trans pan with internal filter.
I've always heard the stock internal filter was just a screen, but I had a similar looking filter to the '08+.
Stock pan with the old filter, it has an internal mesh-type filterOld filter p/n
Painted it with VHT so it would look purty.
Lots of fine grit on the old magnet.
The stock filter being a screen that let's large debris through is a huge misconception that I don't know who started it.
But if you squeeze the end cap of the filter in a vise it will pop the plastic welds loose and you can slide the cartridge inside out for further inspection.
. The fuzz on the magnet is normal.
What is it with these brakes? Apart from the hard lines and ABS everything is new. Yesterday I drive 200 miles, all OK, nice and cool. Drive around village, make a couple of calls, must be all of one mile, fronts so hot they smell. Later on we go to a steak place about 10 miles away so i take the beast to see what happens. Again, brakes stay cool
Originally Posted by Yahiko
That is what I am thinking too.
It's also the prime reason for the new flex lines. When I removed the
caliper it was not hard to compress and the guide pins had grease on
them and no rust. I am not looking forward to the front flex lines. $$$!!!!!!!
The only brake problem I've had other then wearing out pads is having the rear backing plate rust out at 6 years, so replaced everything at the wheel ends with new at that point. Addressed that and now at 16 in two months plates are still good and went through one other set of pads.
The only brake problem I've had other then wearing out pads is having the rear backing plate rust out at 6 years, so replaced everything at the wheel ends with new at that point. Addressed that and now at 16 in two months plates are still good and went through one other set of pads.
The motor however, ain't been so friendly.
What brake pads are you guys using.
A couple of weeks ago I installed Powerstop ceramic/carbon fiber pads along with slotted rotors. Beast brakes like a champ. The real test will be tomorrow when we bring the camper home.
This will be the first time I get to actually haul with this truck. My wonderful and beloved 04 F150 did awesome. The camper was just a little too much for a long haul I think. Such a good truck to me. She even let me change the plugs without breaking one.
The only brake problem I've had other then wearing out pads is having the rear backing plate rust out at 6 years, so replaced everything at the wheel ends with new at that point. Addressed that and now at 16 in two months plates are still good and went through one other set of pads.
The motor however, ain't been so friendly.
What brake pads are you guys using.
Jack I went with the Ford OEM blue pads. Stops really well.
I did get a set of Dorkman backing plates Ford was beyond ridicules.
The stock filter being a screen that let's large debris through is a huge misconception that I don't know who started it.
But if you squeeze the end cap of the filter in a vise it will pop the plastic welds loose and you can slide the cartridge inside out for further inspection.
. The fuzz on the magnet is normal.
I wonder too, who started that. Probably someone misinformed, like usual.
But as Mark K has stated, its the TP filter that keeps the micro size crude out of the solenoids........
But I don't change the TP filter, mostly cause I just cannot get the external housing apart. Oh well.
Ok folks I am in need of some help. I am on the road and broke in North Carolina. I have sprung a leak from one of the lines coming off the upper fuel filter. My question is this. What all do I have to take off the truck to get this tube off. 2nd do the connections have gaskets that I can try to replace beings it is *pm on Sat and ford dealer does not open until Monday.
Jack I went with the Ford OEM blue pads. Stops really well.
I did get a set of Dorkman backing plates Ford was beyond ridicules.
At the time I replaced my backing plates I had to get the full Ford assembly, with knuckle. At that time they were close to $200 per side and I believe I ended up around $360 for the pair.
Dorman may be getting the plates from the original supplier if the stamping is exactly the same.
I started to write my thoughts but maybe it's best to do a separate thread .....
I finally got around to installing my new boost gauge since the gs ones keep pissing me off.
Nice 1/4" line to feed the gauge.
Where it now goes through the firewall
Nice new cobalt mechanical gauge. Unfortuantely the one gs gauge i had planned to keep because it was the only one that behaved decided today was a good day for it to short out so now i gotta start saving for its replacement.
Jack I went with the Ford OEM blue pads. Stops really well.
I did get a set of Dorkman backing plates Ford was beyond ridicules.
I went with dorman too, it's not exactly a critical item. As for the brake pads, tends to be what is available here, they all seem to work ok. What is harder to get is the rotors, 2005 and up models just don't seem to be available within Europe. Rockauto can deliver fast though, the m/c arrived in 48hrs (express shipping). I was impressed!
At the time I replaced my backing plates I had to get the full Ford assembly, with knuckle. At that time they were close to $200 per side and I believe I ended up around $360 for the pair.
Dorman may be getting the plates from the original supplier if the stamping is exactly the same.
I started to write my thoughts but maybe it's best to do a separate thread .....
As much as I hate the"Lifetime Warrantee" b.s. It does have one for rust through.
I think when I looked last summer they were pushing $500 for both with hardware.
Originally Posted by 87crewdually
MTH
where is it leaking? At the fitting? There's an o-ring in a groove on the fuel bowl fitting that seals with the flat face of the line itself.
This would be one of those times where Dorman would be acceptable for O-rings.
Just be sure to replace them soon. One place to check would be a hydraulic shop.
Look for one that has weekend 24 Hr emergency service. Also one other very good
place to check would be an International Dealer parts and serves counter. You
should be able to find something to help out of all the choices.
The one thing to watch out for is the type. If I recall correctly the fuel system
O-rings should be a Nitrile based O-ring.
04-22-2017, 03:48 PM
so now i gotta start saving for its replacement.
sounds like a road trip lol