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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

need some HD Shocks

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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 10:08 PM
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need some HD Shocks

Hey all, I just added some overload springs to the rear of my '93 e150 and now the back end bounces like crazy. So I am looking for recommendations for a good (cheap) set of heavy duty shocks. Looking at Rock Auto, the monroe gas-magnums for $30 each seem like what I am looking for, but seem to get terrible reviews here, so I need some recommendations.

I am really not terribly interested in ride, just a good heavy duty shock that can take some abuse.

Brew
 
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 06:16 AM
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Look into Bilstein's-----and don't let the name give you immediate sticker shock! Try a site known as eShocks.com----they've got the best prices I've ever found. I bought a set of 4 HD's delivered the next day for $325--eShocks is just one state away though.

If your '93 shocks are as horribly difficult as my '00 this ain't a job where I'd ever use a "cheap" shock----one that would need changing out again in 30-40K miles.

Think of adding a rear sway bar too----I used Hellwig which is also a bit spendy but do it once and forget it is my motto!
 
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 08:26 AM
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I would love to be able to buy the bilsteins But at just about triple the price of a cheaper shock, that aint going to happen. I really can't justify putting $350 shocks on a $800 van. If a $30 shock would last me 30k miles, I would be happy. Honestly I don't see myself owning this van longer than a year.

Brew
 
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 10:25 AM
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I like KYB Monomax ..they are like 50 bucks each .... other than that, Monroe are your best bet or the Northern Auto/ Summit Racing House brand...
 
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 10:38 AM
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Thanks, I will check them out.

Brew
 
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by tsbrewers
I would love to be able to buy the bilsteins But at just about triple the price of a cheaper shock, that aint going to happen. I really can't justify putting $350 shocks on a $800 van. If a $30 shock would last me 30k miles, I would be happy. Honestly I don't see myself owning this van longer than a year.

Brew
Ahhh okay this makes all the difference then---I was thinking you'd be keeping this for a while! No, in your case the $30 versions would probably suit you perfectly---I just hate the process of changing them so opted for the (hopefully) longer-lived Bilstein's----maybe on your next van?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by JWA
I just hate the process of changing them so opted for the (hopefully) longer-lived Bilstein's----maybe on your next van?
What makes them so hard to change?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Crazy001
What makes them so hard to change?
only one is a SOB, the drivers front. so little space for the top nut.
the rest are not that bad.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JWA
Ahhh okay this makes all the difference then---I was thinking you'd be keeping this for a while! No, in your case the $30 versions would probably suit you perfectly---I just hate the process of changing them so opted for the (hopefully) longer-lived Bilstein's----maybe on your next van?
I am a contractor who normally uses a truck and a large trailer, but the gas mileage sucks. So this whole things was kinda an experiment to see if a regular van would work for me. I bought it fairly cheap from an auction, am cleaning it up a little, and most likely will sell it and buy a newer one.

I have been looking for one of those mini cube vans (cutaway?), but those might be out of my price range at this point. So I might end up driving this van for longer than I hoped though.

Brew
 
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 10:46 AM
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Miserable design/access of top end, rusty long threaded studs, of rear shocks are PITA. May need to use nut splitter or cutting torch to remove.

Originally Posted by Crazy001
What makes them so hard to change?
Just saw set of NIB Gabriel gas shocks on CL for $85 yesterday.

Pep Boys sells Gabriel w/lifetime, no questions asked, warranty.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 12:17 PM
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What makes them so hard to change?

Those @#$*+!&...shouldered bolts on the radius arms. It's a real gas when they break off Ask me how i know this
 
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Bbasso
only one is a SOB, the drivers front. so little space for the top nut.
the rest are not that bad.
Originally Posted by Club Wagon
Miserable design/access of top end, rusty long threaded studs, of rear shocks are PITA. May need to use nut splitter or cutting torch to remove.
Originally Posted by dennyo
Those @#$*+!&...shouldered bolts on the radius arms. It's a real gas when they break off Ask me how i know this
Thanks for the replies, I always figured shocks would be relatively simple compared to the struts that many other vehicles use. Apparently they can suck just as badly.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 04:47 PM
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I use a sawzall with a flexible metal cutting blade and cut the top threaded portion off the shock just above the lower rubber bushing. Works great, I've done this for both the front and rear shocks on the '04 and '08 vans. To install the new ones just use a flexi ratcheting wrench.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Crazy001
Thanks for the replies, I always figured shocks would be relatively simple compared to the struts that many other vehicles use. Apparently they can suck just as badly.
OMG you need to change a set of shocks on an E Van! The upper rear mounting stud nuts are sandwiched between the rear frame cross member and the body, MAYBE 1.5" working room between that mess. I'd snap a photo but even light has a tough time fitting into that space!

The fronts aren't too bad but as DennyO says the radius arm shoulder bolts can be a mess of their own. They've been known to snap off or a ham handed "mechanic" can damage the threads and sadly they're part of the radius arm without supposedly being replaceable. You'll see more than a lower front shocks thru bolted unless the entire radius arm has been changed when/if this has happened.

Just like spark plugs on the modular motors our E vans present some challenges most never imagine or anticipate. When installing my Bilstein's I applied a thin coating of nickel-based anti-seize to the stud threads, thinking that'll reduce time and effort if they need changed while I still own this van.
 
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