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5.4V8 DREADFUL SPARK PLUG ISSUE SOLVED !!

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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 04:39 PM
  #16  
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A few questions for the OP:

What is the torque rating on your impact? It is adjustable?
Did you "burp" the gun at all during the removal or did you just hit them hard until they came out?
Did you need to use in u-joint and extensions for plugs 3, 4, and 8?
Did you do any engine/fuel treatments prior to the removal?
Did you use any penetrating fluid at all? They look dry.
The electrodes/gap look in surprisingly good shape considering the miles.
I have ordered the sp515's also and although they are supposed to be crimped on much better, it is my understanding they are still a two piece plug.
Did the truck run well right away or did the computer need time to adjust?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 07:08 AM
  #17  
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Spark Plugs removal

few questions for the OP:
What is the torque rating on your impact? It is adjustable?
*My airgun maximum rating is 1000 Lbs of torque, yes adjustable . I went down to 250 Lbs.

Did you "burp" the gun at all during the removal or did you just hit
them hard until they came out?
*Yes, I did crank it in burts , did not hold down the gun until the plugs came out.

Did you need to use in u-joint and extensions for plugs 3, 4, and 8?
*Yes, I did use an impact U joint as well as 3" and 6" extentions. I tried to keep the extentions as aligned as possible to the gun.
Look at the picture from my initial post . It shows by the gun the black extentions and U joint I used.


Did you do any engine/fuel treatments prior to the removal?
*Yes , I ran Techron concentrated fuel additive. But at the time the intention was to ensure my fuel system was clean, I gues It could have helped soften the plugs, after all they did not look as bad at all even after 110.000 miles. ( Make sure you get the concentrated version of the techron ) There are two types. Walmart sells it for about 8 bux or so.

Did you use any penetrating fluid at all? They look dry.
* No, I used nothing at all.

The electrodes/gap look in surprisingly good shape considering the miles.
* Agreed , I was surprised the plugs look good. But it was well worth replacing it, I am now relieved that my truck no longer has a plug that could potentially break upon removal.

I have ordered the sp515's also and although they are supposed to be crimped on much better, it is my understanding they are still a two piece plug.
Did the truck run well right away or did the computer need time to adjust?
*Truck ran just fine when I cranked, no need for any adjustment, reset.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 09:33 AM
  #18  
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Oh, one other item................

ChemSearch “Yield”, is a product that most "Typical Automotive repair mechanics" would not be familiar with, although it is readily available. It is a product specifically designed for use (originally) for the aircraft industry....which uses a considerable amount of aluminum and in older models- magnesium. It is on the "Suggested" user list of both Boeing/Airbus & GE/RollsRoyce (who build the jet engines) for use on difficult srew/bolt removal potentially caused by steel/aluminum contact.

and if you look up the MSDS for what comprises it (available online), you will be surprised, yeah, us old guys of 40 years ago (not 30) dealt with things that many have forgotten......and now the "industry" is now selling as new "Tools & Techniques".


oh, the MC 515's are welded.
 
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Old May 12, 2012 | 09:16 AM
  #19  
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Hi Guys,

I have the 2005 6.8 V10, same issue as the 5.4 and today I am doing a plug and COP change. I have ran 3 tanks of gas worth with Seafoam injector cleaner, I have Kano Kroil creep for the penetrating lube, New MC Cops and the MC SP-515's, the nickel anti-seize and yes I have the the plug extractor tool if I break one. I even have a 3/8 impact if I can stir up enough guts to use it... I have seen the impact video before and thank the OP for creating this post. That was his 2nd video, the first one was before that one when he was developing the process.

The one thing I cannot seem yet to find is the plug torque when putting the new plugs back in.

My 2005 vintage Ford shop manual says 25 ft lb dry torque. That sounds high as it is around the 28 to 30 ft lb that rips the plug apart on removal. And yes I know the install is different than removal.

Yes, I do agree on the anti-sieze on the plug threads but applying lube will change the application torque down some 20 to 25% to be the same pre-load on the threads as dry. Which is then about 18 ft lb lubed.

What application torque on the plugs did you use and was it dry or lubed?

Thanks in advance.

John
 
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Old May 12, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #20  
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Plugs

I am not sure about the V10 , below is the torque specs for the expedition 2006.
Indeed it is 25lbs of torque....

 
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Old May 12, 2012 | 12:23 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mig25
I am not sure about the V10 , below is the torque specs for the expedition 2006.
Indeed it is 25lbs of torque....

Thanks Mig25,

This does help. My 2005 Ford shop manual page 303-07A-1 copy righted 2004 states the same torques for the 5.4 and the 6.8 as they use both in the Super Duty's. Both for the plugs and the COP's

The guys at Blownoutsparkplug.com state this

FAQ on torque no 51 and 52

They also are using MotorCraft plugs and say they are nickel plated and do them dry at 28 ft lb.

25 ft lb by Ford and 28 ft lb by Blownout plug are close to the same.

There is the 13 ft lb torque out there but the years of the engine and methods of thinking have changed. I'm just trying to confirm if I can that on this 2005 3 valve modular the 25 ft lb dry is the latest thinking on MotorCraft plugs.

Right now I have all the COP's out and broke loose all 10 plugs. I put the table spoon of Kroil down in the plug well to let it soak and I came in for lunch. Man, are they in there tight and I only moved it a 1/8 of a turn.

On this 6.8 V10 plug 8 and 10 are going to be a treat.... I just may do the impact after the soak over lunch as the thoughts of pulling the ratchet on an angle is pretty high on those 2 cylinders. I hope I can even get the impact in there. It is a small 3/8 one but the room is limited.

Thanks for the pic post. It is truly appreciated.

John
 
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Old May 12, 2012 | 12:34 PM
  #22  
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I torqued my 2005 plugs with anti seize to 17 lbs. was that too loose? That is what I had read to do. Is it 17 with anti seize and 25 without?
 
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Old May 12, 2012 | 08:01 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Schlominator
I torqued my 2005 plugs with anti seize to 17 lbs. was that too loose? That is what I had read to do. Is it 17 with anti seize and 25 without?
Traditional fasteners require 20 to 25% less torque to gain the same preload on the thread verses dry.

If 25 ft lb is the desired goal dry, then 25% is 18.75 ft lb. Not all our torque wrenches are calibraterd to traceable standards so there is error in the average torque wrench from mechanic to mechanic.

Your 17 ft lb lubed is for all practical 25% less then 25 ft lb. 1 or 2 ft lb is not going to make or break the bank.

Hope this helps

John
 
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Old May 12, 2012 | 08:07 PM
  #24  
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Just reporting back. I did not have such a good day today. The score is 7 to 3 and I'm not winning....

To not hijack this post, see my saga here.
2005 3 valve 6.8 Plug Change - Cracked Insulators Thanks

John
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 12:25 AM
  #25  
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Great photos and tips. Thanks
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 04:59 PM
  #26  
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Hey guys yesterday my 2001 Navi started missing badly i knew it was time to do a tune up on it but i guess i put it off for too long. Bad choice. I got the 5.4L 32V V8 in it. Will the impact method you used still work on the 4-valver?? I noticed most of you are talking about the 3-valvers only.

Sorry if this is a stupid question i just graduated tech school im only 19 so yess im a rookie.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 09:32 AM
  #27  
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This issue affects only the 5.4 3 valve engines.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 09:45 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by iniguez310
Sorry if this is a stupid question i just graduated tech school I'm only 19 so yes I'm a rookie.
At least you were smart enough to ask instead of thinking you knew the answer. I'd say that's a good start to a post-graduation career.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 02:52 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by iniguez310
Hey guys yesterday my 2001 Navi started missing badly i knew it was time to do a tune up on it but i guess i put it off for too long. Bad choice. I got the 5.4L 32V V8 in it. Will the impact method you used still work on the 4-valver?? I noticed most of you are talking about the 3-valvers only.

Sorry if this is a stupid question i just graduated tech school im only 19 so yess im a rookie.

Welcome to the FTE.
Try starting a new thread with your question. Your problem is not uncommon and you will get help.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 01:03 PM
  #30  
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Ok!! so it appears you'd be the guy I need to talk to! So I was told my 2005 Expy EB was "mis-fireing" (probably did NOT spell that right, LOL) and that I needed a tune up. K, not a problem.. until they told me it would be $700!! So! NOW my engine is "skipping" or as they called it mis-fireing (WHICH BTW THEY TOLD ME THAT IT WOULDN'T HARM ANYTHING.. JUST KEEP DRIVING AS USUAL! Problem is its driving me batty!!!!! I cant stand having to let off the gas at 70 mph cause the way the truck starts chugging!!) and once it gets up around 2000 RPMs it almost sounds like it goes out of gear.. the RPMs go up, but it doesn't feel like its going any faster!! So now they said if I can find someone to put the plugs in for me, they should only be $7 -$8 a piece... problem is... I dont know anyone that could do everything you just showed you did!!! soooo.. gonna try and do it myself, lol , or have my brother help me! Any feedback would be great!!! thanks!!
 
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