Hey guys, I'm curious if it is possible to cut the original springs right by the "eye" on the main leaf, flip it, then weld it back into place? Or would it make the metal Too brittle?

 

I certainly wouldn't want to trust my life to a deal like that.

 

I'd just take them to a spring shop and have them reversed by professionals. Improperly welding and heating on the spring steel can make them brittle or weak which could lead them to crack or fail. If not properly done, it will kill the high carbon content of the spring steel.

 

If you have a spring shop reverse the eye make sure the lenght of the spring is right. I have been told that doing this can change the lenght. I have never had a leaf spring modified so I don't have first hand experience. there are lots of options for new leaf springs which I feel is better than modifying old springs. But guys have been doing this for years.

 

To cut off the eye and weld it back on - I'd say that would be madness. Spend the money on some properly manufactured springs - its not worth your life to save a few bucks...

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I was just curious about it, I'll just stick with what I got lol thanks again!

 

It is possible to reverse the eyes cold by disassembling the spring, and either take the main leaf to a spring shop and request they re-arch the leaf in the other direction, or it is possible to re-arch it by hand if you have enough patience and asprins (or good ear protection) To re-arch by hand, you'll need a short length of large I Beam and a 5# crosspeen hand maul. The maul looks like a short handled small sledge hammer with one side of the head that comes to a dull wedge shape.
First totally clean the leaf of all rust and dirt. If you sand or wire brush, be sure to go in the long direction ONLY, NO CROSS scratches! Trace the leaf's arch onto the floor, a sheet of plywood or hardboard, you'll need to refer to it as you go.
Next lay the I beam on it's side so the center web is horizontal and the two flanges point upwards. Lay the leaf across the flanges at 90*. if it does not lay onto both flanges, you will need to raise the I beam up until it does. Make sure your platform is sturdy and solid and won't bounce apart, cross laid and spiked 4x4s for example.
Now start hammering starting near one eye with the wedge end of the maul striking the leaf exactly across the leaf with the blow centered between the I beam flanges using medium force strikes. You should not make much if any mark in the spring metal.
Move the spring about 1" and strike it again with as close to the same force as the first blow. Continue the move 1" and strike technique until you get to the other end.
Check your progress against your arch tracing. It should be a little flatter. Continue the hammering process working evenly end to end until the leaf arch is reversed and matches the original pattern. If a section is curving more than the rest, ease up on the force of thes trikes thru that section until it evens up again. If the leaf starts to curl or twist you are not holding the spring square across the I beam or you are not striking the spring squarely. Adjust your hold and/or your hammer blows to compensate. Each leaf should take 1- 2 hrs to reverse, so be patient! Trying to do too much too fast will result in an uneven arch or damage to the spring that may give a crack a place to start.