Replacing 2002 muffler
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Replacing 2002 muffler
Hey guys, new to the forum here. I just picked up an 02 F150 XLT supercab with 70k miles on it, still in excellent shape. However, I think it sat for a while and there has been some rust on the muffler causing a few small holes in the muffler. Looking to replace the muffler and I'm not trying to spend $500 on a whole new cat-back system right now. Have you ever done only a replacement for the muffler? I was a throaty sound but with little cab drone. Also, what mufflers do you suggest? I'm currently looking at a Flowmaster 50 series but if you know of something better please let me know!
Any links to other threads with any of this info would be great too, thanks.
Any links to other threads with any of this info would be great too, thanks.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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i have a 4 inch diameter cut off wheel that is .045 inch thick in an air powered grinder. I have cut out several mufflers on a variety of vehicles and just jumped in a new muffler that i bought at Auto Zone for a lesser cost. THEy will sell you a 12- 18 inch length of pipe to go with it if you need to make up some distance. Most generic mufflers are more like 20 inches long. Just get the right in - out diameter.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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Ditto on what Steve says. The catalogs always shoe a certain muffler as being a replacement, but they are considerably shorter. I'd just add that if you go this route, you might consider double clamps on the joints ( if you can't weld them). Rural gravel roads (like I have travel) bounce the exhaust so much that I had single clamps start coming loose. Or get the HD clamps that are 3/8", so you can torque them enough to hold without snapping.
Dave
Dave
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Joined: Oct 2009
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If you want a throaty sound but little or no drone, get a WickedFlow MAX. These are designed specifically to arrest drone. I have them in all of my own vehicles, and I can't stand drone. You get the best of performance, there are no bottlenecks or choke points, just straight through performance, but they are designed to not drone. You can buy them at Bear River Converters - Wholesale distributors of catalytic converters. They also sell the leak proof clamps, so you can save by buying them front eh same retailer and bundle the shipping. The clamps they sell will not loosen once tightened.
I used to run a Flowmaster. They have a nice aggressive tone, but on mine, it did drone. Mine was an original 50 series. I've also used Magnaflow, they droned terribly, particularly at 2000 - 2500 rpm. The WickedFlows are nearly completely silent at 2000 - 2200 rpm.
I used to run a Flowmaster. They have a nice aggressive tone, but on mine, it did drone. Mine was an original 50 series. I've also used Magnaflow, they droned terribly, particularly at 2000 - 2500 rpm. The WickedFlows are nearly completely silent at 2000 - 2200 rpm.
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Thanks for the help guys, just picked up a flowmaster 40 series at autozone for only like $70 and had to buy some extra pipe for it, hopefully i'll get it done this week sometime. Interesting about the welding or clamping though. I heard some people say that welding is the way to go but other people say that it makes it harder for if you ever wanted to switch it out.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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i always clamp the pipes together. Only use a welder when needed. I normally measure the length and any adaptors, etc needed. Wire feed that all together as one piece, on the bench..., then slip under the truck and clamp at each end.. sometimes you need hanger to hlep hold things from turning, depends on the design and fit.
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