Yes, the more fuel you can dump in, the closer to TDC, while burning it... the more power you will make. Currently the best way to do this is with my camshaft and DPS stage 1 injectors.

Very well said, couldn't of said it better myself.

I have said this over and over.... are the Moose parts bad? No, I don't think so. People do seem to love them, but the premise they work on is entirely different.

People love the Moose misters because they make the engine run soft, and low smoke. Mike explained why, very well above.

To get power, you don't want it to burn the fuel in the PC.

As a general rule in a stock app an IDI burns 40% PC - 60% CC... and sometimes maybe 50/50.

As for the Supermoose vs my DB4, beings I seen Mel chime in with pure garbage the other day.... the SM isn't in the same league as my DB4.

The supermoose is still a DB2. My guess is with .35 sized plungers. It is jamming 110-120cc's of fuel through 1 fill port, and 2 plungers. This is extremely stressful on the internals, and reliability is compromised. Before the DB4 was built... this is how Ken got power to IDI pullers, and they blew lots of them up.

My DB4 being called a "hybrid" is being thrown around much too loosely.

My pump is built with an industrial app, brand new, from stanadyne, DB4 head and rotor. The cam collar, housing, and everything else is custom machined, to fit it all into the DB2 housing.

There is nothing DB2 about my pumps fueling system. It is a true, genuine DB4 head and rotor. 4 plungers, 4 fill ports. Fill ports are larger to get the extra fuel in, cam ring is custom, ect. The only DB2 specific parts retained in my pump (I say specific because DB2 and DB4 share common parts between the pumps) is the housing itself, even the shaft is the same for a DB4 application.

The "unknown reliability" factor with my DB4 is the fact that 75% of the parts inside of my pump are custom made, to make this thing work. It has never been done before, not because its pushing the limits of what the DB4 can push out. I turned over 4,000 miles yesterday, but even when I turn over 40,000 miles... people will still have crap to say.

He also made the comment that my DB4 isn't "streetable". Go watch my videos and tell me its not streetable. I drive my truck, every single day, a minimum of 50 miles a day, about 50% I5, and 50% stop and go Tacoma/JBLM traffic. It is perfectly streetable.

 

Well said.

 

Well guys, you are making me think, not that I wasn't before . I havn't spent to much time over at OB but there does seem to be a general consensus among those over there on the moose pump. But I keep an open mind, so I'll keep a look out for the best options.

For my setup I won't be making more than 15psi boost and probably closer to 10, so I wonder if I will need anything more than what I already have. Any over fuel problems on the DB4 at low boost? I assume whether it be the sm or your DB4 a higher boost is recomended to stay efficient. Unless I'm stuck on this efficiency thing to much. Just trying to keep my egt's down.

 

The turbo cal sounds right up your alley. The fuel and timing curves are changed slightly from stock to help take advantage of the turbo.

I might have missed it, but are you planning on doing head studs? Good insurance on a 6.9 and would let you run 15-20lbs safely.

 

Studs are on and it is basically ready to go save the cam. My injection pump is rebuilt, which was the last thing I needed to do this year before the engine was considered completely rebuilt.

I will never run head bolts on the 6.9 again. I had 2 bolts that were broken before I rebuilt it and then I had a new one brake later. My torque wrench was off by five pounds but a head bolt shouldn't be on the edge of brakeing like that. It may be I had a batch of bad bolts but it makes me a lot less paranoid having the studs on.

 

If you reuse head bolts they can break Brant, thats why they always recommend new head bolts.

 

The ones I found broken first were broken when I bought the engine. Probably someone replaced the gaskets and used the old bolts. After the rebuild I installed a new set of bolts and one of them broke. From there I went directly to studs. Like I said, maybe just a brittle batch. Probably should have gotten a refund.

 

I've heard about the db4 setup a few places, and it sounds great, but is there anywhere to buy one?