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When cranking the truck up I have to grind on the starter, it doesnt fire right away (turn the key on until the fuel pump shuts off, then fire it up). I just had my FICM rebuilt (for other reasons), brand new alternator and optima redtop. After I get it started I let it idol for a couple of minutes before taking off (it runs smooth), when accelerating the truck will miss fire until it is warmed up then it runs fine, it doesnt blow white or blue smoke when missing....maybe one of the injectors is sticking?
Lets start with year model, oil and filter type (OEM filter and cap I hope), mileage and mileage of last oil hange. Also get the truck scanned for codes please
Lets start with year model, oil and filter type (OEM filter and cap I hope), mileage and mileage of last oil hange. Also get the truck scanned for codes please
Hey Tim, Your crystall ball broke today or something??
Lets start with year model, oil and filter type (OEM filter and cap I hope), mileage and mileage of last oil hange. Also get the truck scanned for codes please
its an 05', and yes its OEM filter and cap, 143,000 miles last oil change was 1,000 miles ago, I had the truck scanned about a month ago and the only codes it was throwing were for the FICM which I had rebuilt.
Hey Tim, Your crystall ball broke today or something??
Yes and I couldn't read his user name either or look up his profile.
Tonka--how long have you had the long hard starts??? Do you have a way to monitor ICP and IPR %?? Has the STC fitting ever been replaced? What weight oil are you running?
Tonka--how long have you had the long hard starts??? Do you have a way to monitor ICP and IPR %?? Has the STC fitting ever been replaced? What weight oil are you running?[/quote]
its been doing it for a couple months now, and no i dont have any way to monitor my ICP or IPR%.....as far as the STC fitting is concerned I havent changed it so probably not, and I run 15W-40 Rotella T.
if the code is throwing for ficm, i'd still have tat tested again. we have a test procedure in our tech folder. it might be possible tat whoever did it may have missed something or didnt do it right. no disrespect.
are both ur batteries putting out 12v? if not, these can hurt ur ficm as well.
if the code is throwing for ficm, i'd still have tat tested again. we have a test procedure in our tech folder. it might be possible tat whoever did it may have missed something or didnt do it right. no disrespect.
are both ur batteries putting out 12v? if not, these can hurt ur ficm as well.
I just had the FICM rebuilt at the beginning of january so I hope it isnt that, and I just put a brand new optima red top in so i know one of them is, the other one needs to be changed (i had it tested and it tested bad one day and good the next) but i dont have $300 for a new battery....It still has an extended warranty on it so I might just have it tested at the dealership ($95) but if what is wrong isnt covered under my warranty then its gonna cost me an arm and a leg....
I just had the FICM rebuilt at the beginning of january so I hope it isnt that, and I just put a brand new optima red top in so i know one of them is, the other one needs to be changed (i had it tested and it tested bad one day and good the next) but i dont have $300 for a new battery....It still has an extended warranty on it so I might just have it tested at the dealership ($95) but if what is wrong isnt covered under my warranty then its gonna cost me an arm and a leg....
I'm willing to bet your issue is batteries. They should always be replaced in pairs on a diesel. Weak or bad batteries will also take out a FICM in a hurry. I went through the same thing on another truck the past THREE months. Batteries good/bad/good/bad depending on who checked it with what and finally almost shut the truck down. Hopefully it hasn't taken his FICM out but he's starting to complain about stuttering today......
FYI--you should be able to get a PAIR of Motorcraft MAX batteries for under $300.......3 yr/100 month warranty.