spark plug change?
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, Canada
start removing them and pray.
I have heard that you should make sure the block is cold as well.
The problem is that the plug threads hang with about 1 thread hanging under the head. If the plug threads are all carboned up you will rip all of your threads out on the way up.
Somebody chime in if I'm wrong..
I have heard that you should make sure the block is cold as well.
The problem is that the plug threads hang with about 1 thread hanging under the head. If the plug threads are all carboned up you will rip all of your threads out on the way up.
Somebody chime in if I'm wrong..
New User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Take them out when the engine is cold. The biggest problem i've seen is people over tightening or not tightening them enough. Carbon on the exposed threads could cause a problem. I work at a shop that does BG fuel injection cleaning and also intake a combustion chamber cleaning. most shops i've seen charge between 80 and 100$ for that but if your doing a tune-up it is a service that i highly recommend to do as well.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: York, PA
It's not bad once you get the hang of it. I use a spark plug socket that will find the center of the spark plug tube. The socket should have an OD that is just under the ID of the spark plug tube so the socket will find the center of the hole and ultimately the center of the plug.
Once the plug is out (if you don't have a socket with the rubber boot inside to grab the plug tip) you can use one of those long flexible pincher things to grab the plug and bring it out.
Alldata says the gap for the 5.4 is 1.32-1.42 mm.
The replacing is reverse of the removal and using a centering socket is key. A bit of anti seize (just a dot) only the threads only will help removal next time.
A bit of di-electric grease on the coil end and you're done.
The right side is a bear once you get to the rear spark plug (number 8 I think) because it sits under the electrical connections, heater hoses and part of the body but with patience and some swivels you'll be fine.
I climb up on the truck and kneel on the radiator support to get a good reach into that area.
Once the plug is out (if you don't have a socket with the rubber boot inside to grab the plug tip) you can use one of those long flexible pincher things to grab the plug and bring it out.
Alldata says the gap for the 5.4 is 1.32-1.42 mm.
The replacing is reverse of the removal and using a centering socket is key. A bit of anti seize (just a dot) only the threads only will help removal next time.
A bit of di-electric grease on the coil end and you're done.
The right side is a bear once you get to the rear spark plug (number 8 I think) because it sits under the electrical connections, heater hoses and part of the body but with patience and some swivels you'll be fine.
I climb up on the truck and kneel on the radiator support to get a good reach into that area.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: York, PA
There has to be another problem though if the plugs are getting carboned up. I have 200K on my Expy and just had one of the heads off. It looked brand spanking new in the cylinders and the heads were clean.
start removing them and pray.
I have heard that you should make sure the block is cold as well.
The problem is that the plug threads hang with about 1 thread hanging under the head. If the plug threads are all carboned up you will rip all of your threads out on the way up.
Somebody chime in if I'm wrong..
I have heard that you should make sure the block is cold as well.
The problem is that the plug threads hang with about 1 thread hanging under the head. If the plug threads are all carboned up you will rip all of your threads out on the way up.
Somebody chime in if I'm wrong..
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New User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I just changed mine the other day 3.5 hrs. Actually I found the drivers side the easiest because they angle to the front. The passenger side angle toward the firewall. And I didnt need to use a swivel on any of them.
Heres a good write up
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ark-plugs.html
Heres a good write up
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ark-plugs.html
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
There's a crazy amount of information in this thread..lots of useful tips.
Well.. My '01 Expy 5.4 now has a code P0305 that apparently its cylinder #5.
Looks like the easiest coil to get to..luckily. I will be attempting to swap a new one tomorrow.
Seems all I have to remove is the power steering pump bracket, besides the air intake. But don't have to pull the fuel lines..I think.
Any input will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Well.. My '01 Expy 5.4 now has a code P0305 that apparently its cylinder #5.
Looks like the easiest coil to get to..luckily. I will be attempting to swap a new one tomorrow.
Seems all I have to remove is the power steering pump bracket, besides the air intake. But don't have to pull the fuel lines..I think.
Any input will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
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fun_suv
1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator
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Feb 28, 2008 04:59 PM
