Ya know after reading most of these threads I know that there has to be some really great things people have done to there Expy's that everyone would like to try for example the4by4freek post on this thread on how he put a switch just inside the back door to turn the lights out.. Well that made me run to wally world and buy a switch. Does anyone else have any ideas?? Now I'm not talking about filters, exhaust...etc


Thanks,
Ken

 

Thats a GREAT IDEA!!!!!!!!! If anyone has some mod or trick that the rest of us don't know about and is something that we might need or want POST IT and let us know how you did it.

This is off topic but I remembered this from reading this post. Just a TIP:When installing the gas tank skid plate: It's ALOT EASIER WITH THE GAS TANK AS CLOSE TO EMPTY AS POSSIBLE AND A JACK!!!!!!

P.S> I am going to do the switch today. Thanks 4X4Freak!!!!!

 

Here's a good idea....When welding on a new muffler, keep the torch away from my airbag ***EDITED FOR CONTENT***!....At least he admitted it, and payed for it....

 

Because I'm trying to keep the interior as temperature stable as possible for carrying cameras and film in desert heat, I removed all the carpets, and all the plastic trim panels on the inside of my Expy. I cut to fit sections of hood insulation from AutoZone (1/2 felt, one side aluminum foil) and glued them to the inside of the panels before replacing them. I covered the entire floor and kickpanel areas with the same stuff but did not glue it down. Replaced all the panels and carpet. The result was worth the four hours work. Very much cooler in summer, warmer in winter, and as an added bonus, much quieter inside.

Added a valve stem extension from the spare to the trailer hitch so I can easily top off the spare tire pressure when needed.

Unbolted the LLS switch from it's place under the dash, and brought it out to the edge of the dash near the kick panel. Used existing hole to bolt it on, facing the passenger seat. Easy to reach and see, does not interfere with passenger feet, and no flashlight needed at night to operate. No modification needed to existing wires.

Windshield wiper blades tend to whistle or moan at speed when wind is from certain directions, so I fill the backside voids of the metal parts with silicone caulk... no void, no noise.

I write the current date and mileage on the end of the new oil filter when I change oil and filter, so I can't forget or lose my reminder about when to change.

I wire all my auxiliary lights (2 long distance drivng lights, 2 cornering lights, 2 fog lights, 2 large backup lights, 1 roof mounted spot light) with relays using the battery as the the direct, fused source. That way, no one system failure will affect the other systems.

I use a plastic bag from shopping trips, to line the oil catch pan when I change oil. After I pour the old oil into a container for recycling, I then put the old filter in the bag, tie it up, and put in the garbage. No mess, no fuss, no leaks in alley way when the garbage truck comes for my can.

I removed the drain plug from the engine sump and replaced it with a spring loaded valve. For oil changes, just turn the handle to open or close the oil flow so that it stays in the catch pan.

On the rear floor board, behind the second seat (I don't have a third seat) I mounted 6 pad eyes from Home Depot, to hook my bungee cords or rope ties to hold down cargo so it doesn't shift on bumpy roads or very steep grades off road. Three on each side. I have a vinyl cargo liner so when that is in place for dirty loads, I use a short length of line to make a loop from each pad eye, so the loop is available for tiedowns.

I made a U shaped bracket from a strip of 1/8 inch aluminum strip. Turned it upside down, mounted each leg of the to the sides of the center console cover, just in front of the cup holders with 2 pop rivets. On top of this I mounted another bracket that hold my weather/CB radio and mike. On top of this is my GPS mount. This setup doesn't interfere with drinks in the holders, or carrying small stuff in the coin tray compartment, and doesn't get in the way of any controls on the dash.

I bought and cut to fit 4 small stainless and rubber mud flaps. Installed one at each end of the running boards with pop rivets to block mud being through up by the tires onto the running boards. Sealed the gaps with weatherstrip and silicon caulk. Works great.

Installed universal type 2" wide black rubber lip molding from JCW in wheel wells. Looks great and keeps gravel and mud off paint.

I hang a plastic cereal container from the earphones "hook" on the back of the center console with a length of small rope to act as a trash container easily reached while I'm driving.

I strung a length of bungee cord on either side of the rear most side windows about four inches above the side panel. I keep neck pillows, coat, hat, small soft travel stuff between the bungee cord and the window glass. It stays up out of the way and stays clean.

I guess that's enough for now. I've had 6 years of fun with this vehicle off roading, in competition, in rescues, trailer towing all over the US, and just tinkering. Maybye one of these days I'll get a picture of it on this site.

 

I dare not compete.....that's alot of very useful info, and I'm glad you've had fun these past few years thinking them up, and putting them to use. Good Work!

 

That's quite a list tsdrallyer, good job! I like the idea about the interior insulation. How long did that take?

 

Vol_freak, that insulation job took about 4 hours. I used 3M spray adhesive. Placed the aluminum foil facing to the outside of the vehicle.

 

tsdrallyer,

did the insulation add alot of "bounce" to the carpet? Living in Florida, this might be a good thing to do?


Thanks

Big Mick

 

97expy5_4,
No, it is fairly firm and flat. There is no rubber like characteristic to the hood insulation felt.

 

Thanks

tsdrallyer

 

I attached Velcro to the read door pull down strap and to the rear door panel. I was tired of hitting my head on that annoying handle, now its Velcro-ed up and out of my way. If my wife needs it all she has to do it tug and it comes loose. I suggest wiping all areas with an alcohol pad to better adhere the Velcro glue.

 

Allan, I never even thought of that. Thanks!!

 

Made a kill switch that works with my remote start system. Pull the engine fuse box, it's only held down with spring tabs. Find the fuel pump fuse wire, it's the 20 amp maxi fuse on the top left. Cut the short wire that goes from the fuse to the fuel pump relay (relay inside same fuse panel). Run some high quality 12ga. wire into the cabin, and mount a switch in a out of sight location. I put mine up inside the garage door opener compartment. Throw the switch, and presto, an inexpensive theft deterrent. Hide the wires under the hood inside some flex loom tubing so they blend in with OEM wires. If you have a remote start system, you can wire a standard relay to close the switch while it is remote started. When you enter the vehicle and use the key, the relay will open, so close the switch first or the engine will stall. Total cost : about $12 in parts, and probably a better deterrent to theft than most alarms. Email me with any questions

 

tsdrallyer,
When you put the insulation in the floor did you take out the seats, console, everything or work around the seats?

 

did any body put a cargo slide on a 98 expediytion how to atach things to 3rd seat brackets like the one from kwikee producks