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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

What's killing my batteries, PART 2

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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 08:11 PM
  #61  
BLADE35's Avatar
BLADE35
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Was that screw you checked on the FICM the one closest to the driver side Fender???

You shouldnt be getting 24.7 volts at any of the Screws.

theres three diffrent readings for the Ficm power

1. FICM Main Power= 48 volts
2. Ficm Vehicle power= 12 volts or B+ voltage
3. FICM Lodgic Power= 12 volts or B+ voltage

so with that said and the DVM was on the right setting and also Being tested at the proper screw for FICM Main Power and you got 24.7 volts the ficm is toast!
you should have 48 volts at all times during KOEO and starter crank and also while Runing


Did you follow this test procedure

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
A SGII makes this easy and its good to keep an eye on it from time to time FWIW
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 01:49 PM
  #62  
eagleinms's Avatar
eagleinms
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Posts: 116
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From: Laurel, MS
Originally Posted by BLADE35
Was that screw you checked on the FICM the one closest to the driver side Fender???

You shouldnt be getting 24.7 volts at any of the Screws.

theres three diffrent readings for the Ficm power

1. FICM Main Power= 48 volts
2. Ficm Vehicle power= 12 volts or B+ voltage
3. FICM Lodgic Power= 12 volts or B+ voltage

so with that said and the DVM was on the right setting and also Being tested at the proper screw for FICM Main Power and you got 24.7 volts the ficm is toast!
you should have 48 volts at all times during KOEO and starter crank and also while Runing


Did you follow this test procedure

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
A SGII makes this easy and its good to keep an eye on it from time to time FWIW
Blade's, I placed the +probe on the correct screwhead. 12.5vdc KOEO. Here is the question= After I replaced the t-stat and CAC boot the truck started up cold great. When I went out to pull it in the shop to start removing the valve cover it would not start. I guess you saw the post about having the tester on vac instead of vdc(blame it on the small print) that was giving the bad reads. 12.5vdc on each batt-seperated, 12.5vdc at FICM KOEO. Checked every wire from fan sensor to FICM and down to where I couldn't reach or see. Every thing at the filter bases and driver side valve cover are good. FICM is out, going to check harness back to firewall and grounds. Can't stop thinking there's a bad connect or ground with the sudden loss of vdc. If I can't find, I'll ship to ficmrepair.
God Bless and Thanks for the help
Eagle in Ms
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 08:52 PM
  #63  
eagleinms's Avatar
eagleinms
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From: Laurel, MS
THIS HAS BEEN A LONG TRIP, Thanks Blades35 for the codes for the SGII. It is the best thing I've seen since peaches on ice cream. As of today this is where I am. The loss of power is caused by the stereo, maybe the harness. Not a priority at this time. The FICM voltage loss was due to a poor connection at the back plug.
According to the scan gaugeII these are my readings:

FICM: 12vdc main, 48vdc koeo, 47.5 cranking
IPR: 14.4% koeo, 84% cranking
NEW ICP: 0psi koeo, 388psi cranking

I have not had a PO263(#1 inj contrite/balance) since I replaced the pigtail on the ipr and repaired a chafed wire by the oil filter base. I could not have made it this far without FTE and members like Blades35, Bismic, npccpartsman, 69cj just to name a few. I will check back tomorrow after church to see where you guys think I need to go from here. Our God is an awsome God. God Bless you all
Ed, Eagleinms
 
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