Fuel problems
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2006
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Fuel problems
My 06 SD 6.0 ran fine yesterday, but this morning, she starts right up, idles fine, but when moving, it is losing power, exhaust sounds like "blub, blub, blub and exhaust smells different. Wife put fuel in it yesterday, but only a quarter tank. Could I have bad diesel fuel? And if so, how do I correct the issue. Or is there another problem? Injectors? Fuel filters?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Need the maintenance history.
Last fuel filter change was when (and what brand)?
Last oil change was when (and what brand)" What brand oil filter?
Any recent mechanical maintenance or mods installed?
Tuned?
Last fuel filter change was when (and what brand)?
Last oil change was when (and what brand)" What brand oil filter?
Any recent mechanical maintenance or mods installed?
Tuned?
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2006
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Fuel filters were changed last spring, oil change done in August. Fram filters, Rotella oil. Replaced power steering pump last month (done by dealer). Truck is driven until low fuel light comes on (I'm not the daily driver) before more fuel is put in tank.
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Freshman User
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Might do the filters tomorrow, but don't want to start throwing money at it until I have more suggestions. Did not have gelling issues this winter as we used additive and the winter wasn't anything like last year.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Changing filters at 10k miles is routine maintenance. An answer like "Spring" indicates you might not be watching that as closely as you might ought to.
Most people drive around 20k miles a year, so last spring means they are due (or past due) now. Driving until the low fuel light comes on is ill-advised IMO. Just asking for plugged fuel filters.
If you think changing filters for troubleshooting is throwing money at it, I think you might be in the wrong truck. Sorry, but that is the way it coming across. A fuel pressure gauge is VERY helpful, but that is way more money than fuel filters. You put your $2500 injectors at risk w/ low fuel pressure (or collapsed filters).
Most people drive around 20k miles a year, so last spring means they are due (or past due) now. Driving until the low fuel light comes on is ill-advised IMO. Just asking for plugged fuel filters.
If you think changing filters for troubleshooting is throwing money at it, I think you might be in the wrong truck. Sorry, but that is the way it coming across. A fuel pressure gauge is VERY helpful, but that is way more money than fuel filters. You put your $2500 injectors at risk w/ low fuel pressure (or collapsed filters).
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Freshman User
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well, from the looks of your vehicle information, IMO, you have spent way more money than I will ever have or spent on my truck. My rig only gets driven right at 10k a year so two oil changes and one filter change a year does the trick for me and the intervals are apporved by my dealer. How about a six year old vehicle with 71K miles on it?
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
I think you'll find that Bismic gives VERY sound advice and is VERY knowledgeable about these trucks. AFA "dealer approved" intervals I don't think you'll find too many on this forum that give a damn about dealer approved anything unless it's warranty repairs. Most of the experienced people here know a helluva lot MORE than 99.9999999999% of the dealerships in this country when it comes to 6.0 repairs and modifications. Good luck with your "repairs".
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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I am sure I came across too strong, my apologies, BUT ............. remember you are asking for a diagnosis over the internet!
Answering specifc questions like "when was the last fuel filter change" with a vague answer like "Spring", well it is just asking for a little frustration to show. We ONLY have your answers to questions to go on.
Then to say that $35 is "throwing money at it" when they are essentially due anyway (last Spring is almost a year or 10k miles for you) ..................
At this point, all I can say is I wish you well with resolving the performance issue, and I mean nothing other than that.
As far as my truck goes, well I am pretty happy w/ it right now!
Edit (one quick piece of advice) -
I would drain some fuel out of the HFCM drain plug into a clear jar (I prefer glass) to get a good look at the fuel quality.
Answering specifc questions like "when was the last fuel filter change" with a vague answer like "Spring", well it is just asking for a little frustration to show. We ONLY have your answers to questions to go on.
Then to say that $35 is "throwing money at it" when they are essentially due anyway (last Spring is almost a year or 10k miles for you) ..................
At this point, all I can say is I wish you well with resolving the performance issue, and I mean nothing other than that.
As far as my truck goes, well I am pretty happy w/ it right now!
Edit (one quick piece of advice) -
I would drain some fuel out of the HFCM drain plug into a clear jar (I prefer glass) to get a good look at the fuel quality.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Breckenridge, TX
The ScanGauge II is usually recommended as a necessary purchase (higher end devices are also available) because by using it you can post up more specific information that can cut through some of the parts-swapping guesses and focus more on specific issues:
Amazon.com: ScanGauge II Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges: Automotive
When someone posts an idea, it's only as good as the info they're given, so the more info you can provide the more solutions you'll be given. You said you had an issue almost immediately after a fuel stop, so the common solution is new fuel and new fuel filters.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,872
Likes: 3,592
Tech Folder has a thread on checking the FICM. Usually you have codes for it (and yes you can have codes without a CEL). A code reader / scan tool can cost $150 though.
FICMrepair.com repairs the units w/ parts of higher specification (temp and vibration) for $250 - better than new condition IMO.
FICMrepair.com repairs the units w/ parts of higher specification (temp and vibration) for $250 - better than new condition IMO.