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Impact on a spark plug

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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 08:12 AM
  #1  
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Impact on a spark plug

Does anybody use this method? I'm guessing the same for a V-10??

Ford 5.4 Liter 3 Valve Spark Plug Removal - YouTube
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 09:34 AM
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Well I don't know. My question is what shape are the threads in afterwards. Hot engine, aluminum, quick removal from impact......Just seems like if the threads start to gall on the way out you'll wipe them out. I never even was tempted to use an impact to change plugs.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dkf
Well I don't know. My question is what shape are the threads in afterwards. Hot engine, aluminum, quick removal from impact......Just seems like if the threads start to gall on the way out you'll wipe them out. I never even was tempted to use an impact to change plugs.
I've spent a few hours looking, recovering from back surgery.... nothing else to do, and it seems most used an electric impact that has low amount of ft lbs. The vibration and constant turning helps. There was some guy on a 150 forum who is a Ford tech and respected there that said that's what he does at work and on his own with good results. I've seen other posts too. I called the service guy at the dealer I've gone too and asked. He said the techs use the low impact with good results. I was just curious about it and wonder if anybody here does. I'm at that point it time to change them.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 03:08 PM
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Wow, I would be afraid to use a impact to change my plugs. I like to do it by hand so I can feel what is going with the threads. I noticed he used anti-sieze, I know some techs do not use it and have good results.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 07:27 PM
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And people think I'm somehow mean or rude when I say some "professionals" are clueless gorillas or hacks....

And supports why I believe so many spark plug blowouts were caused by gorillas and not the design.

Just because something is convenient and fast does NOT mean it is a good idea! You may get away with it 98% of the time... but the 2% that results in damage is still YOUR fault. I guarantee that "master mechanic" will LOUDLY blame the 2% on "a bad design by Ford". But but he will fix it. On your dime.

In other words, a win-win for him. He is still charging you to do it the right way. If all goes well, the time he saves is money in his pocket. When it backfires, he gets to make even more money by repairing his damage.

Maybe that is the definition of "good results"? It works well enough that they can get away with it?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 07:37 PM
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And that is NOT a thin film of anti-seize. Use about 1/2 that, and no need to put it on the threads if you use modern nickel plated (bright silver) plugs.

But I do give him credit for recommending to run cleaner through the engine first.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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what is the induction cleaning thing he mentioned. I am assuming its some kind of cleaner that is run through the engine before taking the plugs out. If it is how is it done, is it an additive that is added to the gas and run for a while?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 08:06 PM
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My understanding is "induction cleaning" involves putting a cleaner in the fuel, throttle body and intake manifold to clean up deposits.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by dkf
My understanding is "induction cleaning" involves putting a cleaner in the fuel, throttle body and intake manifold to clean up deposits.
Any idea what to uses, how much and how long before doing the plug change. I must agree with a couple of you, I wouldnt take my plugs out with an impact wrench, nor would I take them out when the engine is warm. Taking them out of a warm/hot engine could cause the aluminum threads to pull out.
 
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