Stubborn rear drums

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Feb 19, 2012 | 07:48 PM

lwclark

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Joined: Dec 2010

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From: Austin, TX

Stubborn rear drums

I've read about a dozen threads on this site with tips on how to coax stubborn rear drums off a Ford 9 inch, but mine are still on there.

One tip that seemed like a great idea was to take a file to the gap between the hub and the drum face. I did that, but dig as I might, I can't find the gap. It all seems like one piece of metal. Where should the gap be? Does the axle/hub face with the three holes have square shoulders, or are they tapered?

I took a couple of closeups so you can see what I'm dealing with.

As always, thanks for your help. You folks are great.

Feb 19, 2012 | 08:11 PM

spurredon

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From: Upstate NY

I would spray with PB Blaster and let soak for awhile. Then hit the outside of the drum with a good size hammer. Sometimes this method has to be repeated but it always works. If they are hung up only on the end of the axels, perhaps you could put a little heat around the edge of the drum and not the axel itself. The drums will often be hung up on the shoes themselves and then it is truly hammer time!

Feb 20, 2012 | 01:11 PM

Buzz44

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From: colbert washington

You will probably need to use ox acetalene torch or mapp gas torch. It has to be hot enough to expand the center of the drum propane will not be hot enough. Heat between the studs on the front of the drum. Dont heat the studs or the axle face. If you get it hot enough the drum will expand and break loose. If the shoes are worn out so they are not contacting the drum it should come right off. If shoes hung up you may need to get a slide hammer with hook ends to grab outside edge of the drum. Hammer lightly between the studs may help loosen not to hard as you will break the drum if you hit to hard. Before you hammer near the studs put the lug nuts back on to flush with the top of the stud so that you dont bugger up the stud threads. I would wear saftey glasses when heating the drum have not had one explode but they do pop with gusto when they come loose.

Feb 20, 2012 | 05:28 PM

ibuzzard

See A Man About A Horse

Joined: Apr 2003

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From: Mariposa, Ca.

Not sure if the F100 is the same as the F250,but my F250 has a few screws through the drum and into the hub that must be removed.Did you remove yours,if they are there?I ask because,I think I'm seeing a couple screw slots in your photos.It is difficult to see through all the years of rust and crud,but cleaning everything reveals surprises sometimes.Scrape with a beater screwdriver,then chuck up a wire wheel in a cordless drill, and finally degrease/shoot with PB Blaster.

Feb 20, 2012 | 08:05 PM

spurredon

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From: Upstate NY

No screws in the F100 drums. Only a few loose ones behind the steering wheel! LOL!

Feb 23, 2012 | 12:57 PM

3414

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Joined: Jun 2008

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From: N E Ohio

Look closely at your first picture. The slight change in texture on the snout of the axle flange is where the drum ends.
What I have done is drive one of the wheel studs in so that you can apply penetrating oil where the drum is against the axle flange. I also give the face of the drum several good wacks with a heavy brass hammer. Between the vibrations that causes and the penetrating oil, usually things loosen up. Often the rust is at the face also.