Return line step-by-step instructions?
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 2
From: Poway, CA
Thanks! Yeah, that seems about right. Of course, that would imply I trust my torque wrench to that low of a value. Guess this is an excuse to go get a new tool!
So, what actually causes the tip of the glow plug to snap off? Are they THAT brittle? I have no experience with them, but it would seem an inherently flawed design for a serviceable part in such a critical location to be that fragile. I mean, is it 'breath on it wrong and it snaps' fragile, or 'I'm a giant ape who doesn't know how to GENTLY wrench on anything' fragile? Also, I found a couple different anti-seize materials at the parts store. One is good to 1200°F and the other is good to 2000°F. The higher-temp one has copper in it. Is that OK to use, or should I stick with the basic 1200°F stuff?
Getting back to the return line kit....... I've seen where many come with new copper washer for the injector. Is it common to go ahead and pull the injector while doing the return lines, or am I asking for trouble messing with them? Just trying to walk a fine line between 'good preventive maintenance' and 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'.
Mike
So, what actually causes the tip of the glow plug to snap off? Are they THAT brittle? I have no experience with them, but it would seem an inherently flawed design for a serviceable part in such a critical location to be that fragile. I mean, is it 'breath on it wrong and it snaps' fragile, or 'I'm a giant ape who doesn't know how to GENTLY wrench on anything' fragile? Also, I found a couple different anti-seize materials at the parts store. One is good to 1200°F and the other is good to 2000°F. The higher-temp one has copper in it. Is that OK to use, or should I stick with the basic 1200°F stuff?
Getting back to the return line kit....... I've seen where many come with new copper washer for the injector. Is it common to go ahead and pull the injector while doing the return lines, or am I asking for trouble messing with them? Just trying to walk a fine line between 'good preventive maintenance' and 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'.
Mike
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,111
Likes: 1,549
From: western SD
Thanks! Yeah, that seems about right. Of course, that would imply I trust my torque wrench to that low of a value. Guess this is an excuse to go get a new tool!
So, what actually causes the tip of the glow plug to snap off? Are they THAT brittle? I have no experience with them, but it would seem an inherently flawed design for a serviceable part in such a critical location to be that fragile. I mean, is it 'breath on it wrong and it snaps' fragile, or 'I'm a giant ape who doesn't know how to GENTLY wrench on anything' fragile? Also, I found a couple different anti-seize materials at the parts store. One is good to 1200°F and the other is good to 2000°F. The higher-temp one has copper in it. Is that OK to use, or should I stick with the basic 1200°F stuff?
Getting back to the return line kit....... I've seen where many come with new copper washer for the injector. Is it common to go ahead and pull the injector while doing the return lines, or am I asking for trouble messing with them? Just trying to walk a fine line between 'good preventive maintenance' and 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'.
Mike
So, what actually causes the tip of the glow plug to snap off? Are they THAT brittle? I have no experience with them, but it would seem an inherently flawed design for a serviceable part in such a critical location to be that fragile. I mean, is it 'breath on it wrong and it snaps' fragile, or 'I'm a giant ape who doesn't know how to GENTLY wrench on anything' fragile? Also, I found a couple different anti-seize materials at the parts store. One is good to 1200°F and the other is good to 2000°F. The higher-temp one has copper in it. Is that OK to use, or should I stick with the basic 1200°F stuff?
Getting back to the return line kit....... I've seen where many come with new copper washer for the injector. Is it common to go ahead and pull the injector while doing the return lines, or am I asking for trouble messing with them? Just trying to walk a fine line between 'good preventive maintenance' and 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'.
Mike
You don't need the copper washers to do the return line, they are used when installing new injectors. Unless you are having problems with the injectors I wouldn't mess with them.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 751
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From: Kodiak, Alaska
Where can i buy a new CDR valve?? - Oilburners.net
Some info on here. You can probably get one from ford or IH dealers. I am going to make a road draft tube that goes into my exhaust (example at the end of the thread above) I'm tired of the messy air intake manifold and leaky cdr valves.
Some info on here. You can probably get one from ford or IH dealers. I am going to make a road draft tube that goes into my exhaust (example at the end of the thread above) I'm tired of the messy air intake manifold and leaky cdr valves.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Poway, CA
Thanks for the link! It looks like the way to go on the CDR is to order the International version since it's the same thing minus Ford's mark-up. Is there a preferred IH online dealer, perhaps one that sponsors the site? Couldn't find any listed on the main page.
Mike
Mike
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Kodiak, Alaska
Stopped by the ford dealership today they call it a PCV valve it was about $60 and the Ford dealership in Gresham Oregon has one. I have the part # I think I left it in the truck I will find it for you tomorow if you need it.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Poway, CA
Wow! Thanks for all the help! I went through the site's vendors and saw that Tousley Ford is listed, so I'm assuming they're a sponsor of sorts. I gave them the business because they're also a big sponsor of another car forum I used to frequent, The Ford Focus Enthusiast Site :: Focaljet : (Ford Focus site), and have always been great to work with. Price was $44 for the valve and a couple bucks for the gasket/o-ring/grommet.
Thanks again!
Mike
Thanks again!
Mike
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Brett Foote
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 751
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From: Kodiak, Alaska
Sweet I think I am going to pick up 3 here in the near future and the kit from mister gasket to weld the road draft tube into the exhaust. DEQ will love me haha, drive in puffing black smoke and have oil dripping out of my exhaust 
good thing they don't emissions check disels here 
good thing they don't emissions check disels here
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,389
Likes: 849
From: Mi'kma'ki
but not even close to the amount of pressure you'd put on a spark plug.
kinda like tightening up transmission pan bolts.odds are you overtightened by leaps and bounds long before you thought snug.
kinda like tightening up transmission pan bolts.odds are you overtightened by leaps and bounds long before you thought snug.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,101
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From: Poway, CA
So, peaking under the hood today, it looks as though the soft line going from the driver's side return line(s) to the IP is leaking at the IP. Do you typically repair/replace this line, too, when doing the return line kit? Is this where the whole 'olives' thing comes in?
Mike
Mike