ALWAYS always always unhook negative cables first!

Never unhook the positive cables first.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Well, that makes sense. I figured since the passenger battery had the heavy wire leading from the driver side battery on it, just removing it would've done it. OK, now I know.

Thanks!

Mike

 

This is a safety thing so you dont short your wrench to ground when unhooking the + cable and cause an arc.
There is no need to unhook the + cables, both - cables is all thats needed to be safe.

 

Can anyone answer my question in post #42 about what to do for the other lines I didn't replace?

Thanks for all the help, guys!

Mike

 

Oh, what the hell?!?!?!?!?!?!?

So, while trying to figure something else out under the hood today, I noticed my brand new caps are leaking a bit. Not bad, but a little moist around the cap and already trying to pool near the glow plug on a couple of them.

What did I do wrong, or is the notion of a truly leak free return line system as real as Santa Claus?

Mike

 

Just to update for those who may search this in the future.......

Remember to put the pressure line isolators back on! I forgot to re-install mine after the job, which may have led to the leaks I mentioned in the last post. I put them on, gave the leaking caps a little extra nudge to make sure they're seated, and all is well.

Mike

 

Great info here, thanks to all.

 

This is a great thread guys. I'm going to start mine thursday. I had questions and you all but answered them for me. I got my kit from typefour also and was a little intimidated with all the parts. Seems simple enough. Now for timing the IP. How to?

Chet

 

Well Chet, if you found this thread, you might know how the search button works. There is a lot of info on here about timing, and its a lot quicker for you to search for it, than ask in a thread about return lines and hope someone answers.

Good luck with the return lines, its pretty straight forward.

 

tecgod13, Ive been looking on the timing but really haven't found what I need.I guess you have to buy some type of time trac strobe light for the process, just not sure how to do the work. Also some say 6 BTDC turbo, & 8.5 BTDC not turbo'd. Is that right?

Chet

 

Looking to replace my injectors, anyone know what to torque them to?

 

35 ft lb........

 

Thank you very much, any ideas on the torque values for the caps that go on top of the injectors?

Thanks.

 

your welcome.the caps just snap on over the o-rings.lube them with petroleum jelly and press down on the cap very firmly until you feel a very distinctive seat.


no.for pulse timing method,you set timing to 8.5 BDTC + or - 2 degree's.this applies to turbo or n/a.
if you had a n/a engine set the timing to 8.5 BTDC,then added a turbo,turned the fuel up,and then checked timing again,you would find your timing now off (i found mine advanced) and need to set it back to 8.5 BTDC again.
within the 6.5-10.5 BTDC range using a meter,you can fine tune to see what feels best to you.it's just like how it acts on a gas engine.6.5 will real good in the upper 3k+rpm range,with 10.5 feeling really good down low.too far either way,and you'll feel the upper or lower rpm range being compromised.the true trick is to find the sweet spot,which is more than likely 8.5BTDC anyway.
if you travel the same route all the time,you can measure 10 consecutive tanks for economy,with .5 degree increments to find the best for your driving style.if you drive pretty easy,and don't use 2500-3k+ rpm range much for towing pulling large hills,then it's likely you could favor slightly advance for an increased off the line feel.but come time to hook up or haul heavy,you'll regret it,cus your upper rpm performance won't be there for you like it could be.
in short,stick to 8.5.for tweaking economy (or other advanced reasons) fine tune to your liking,but remain within range.damage can occur going either way too far.
9.5-10.5 is actually very annoying,as the engine becomes very loud even at normal operating temps.lot's of excessive rattle that does nothing for my truck but sound loud,slightly higher egt's,runs too smokey,and kills upper rpm power.your experience may vary.

 

I think he meant for the nuts on the ends of the injection lines.

Mike