Ha y'all I just got an email from that powerstrokehelp.com about a better coolant cap!!! Have y'all tried it yet? I'm not sure on that guy but, I was what the heck it's only $5 cap! I just put it on! What y'all think?

 

From my experience, you "Patch" one weak spot, you'll soon find another.

It may be perfectly Ok to use a stronger, more robust 20Lb.+ Cap but who knows.

Time will tell what gives up next.

My .02

D

 

I received the same email. It makes perfect sense. If you only presssurizing to 4lbs and boiling your coolant you are going to cause all kinds of problems in your motor. Think of all the posts you've read about people having the coolant over flow puking after a long pull and then learning their head gasket quit. Could boiling coolant in your head during a heavy pull cause a failure? I'm no diesel tech but would like to hear what someone smarter then me thinks about this.

 

Here's the link
YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.

 

The only things that will take you beyond 10 or 12 psig on the coolant system are (I am typically at 6-8):

1. Your engine is producing more heat than you should ever normally have
2. Your engine is removing less heat than it normally should (bad water pump, clogged radiator, bad fan clutch, etc)/
3. Head gasket leaks or cracked heads
4. EGR cooler leaks
5. Using coolant that is at too low of concentration
6. Having too much coolant in the degas bottle (not enough room for expansion)

Fix the source of the problem, don't mask it w/ a higher pressure cap.

 

This doesn't link to nothing Ford related.

Mod's should delete.

D

 

This thread has the video: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...gentlemen.html

 

It is important to maintain pressure in the system
A non pressure condition can lead to a situation of rapid boiling or film boiling.
These hot spots can result in severe corrosion, as well as AF inhibitor deterioration.
Also it could be possible a bad cap could lead to oxygen rich air to enter the system with the heat cool cycles, leading to sludge
Anyone with slime in their degas tank or being caught in their coolant filter care to have their cap tested ?

 

Buy a pressure gauge and some hose and see how much pressure yor system maintains. Get a new cap and do the same thing. You will be surprised. The back pressure is ONLY generated by liquid expansion, not the rating of the degas cap. That is what makes this design different from a radiator cap. If your system is healthy, you will see pressures WAY below the cap rating (ie 6-8 psig, and not 12-16).

 

I agree Bismic that the system normally produces pressures somewhere south of 16 PSI, and that the cap is a safety devise not a pressure regulating one.
Otherwise the constant steaming thru the cap would require an overflow tank as well.
I figured they call it a "degas" bottle because it's function is to separate coolant gas (air) from the coolant and also allow for expansion
A system that requires only 6 to 8 PSI is vastly superior to one that builds 20, if for no other reason than the failure rate of hoses, ect And I assume that the shear volume of the coolant system and the water pump design makes this possible.
But a constant no pressure situation can be detrimental as well.
It is the water in the cooling system that distills out and causes the localized boiling.
I am simply questioning whether a bad cap can play into the coolant/ clogged oil cooler debate.
Could an air entrained system cause bacterial growth which in turn reduces nitrite levels ?
Could localized boiling from other than the EGR cooler cause some of the Ford gold "jello" in our coolers , which in turn clogs it, and exacerbates the boiling problem ?