Hey everyone ... I'm new to the site, mostly reading so far.. I've got a "new to me" 97 F250HD Ex-cab 4x4 w/ 5.8 and E4OD. Its got just under 300K on the clock.

So on to my issue....

It drove great when i first got it.. Felt like the engine and trans had a rebuild on them at some point.. Anyway... Now it stumbles and stalls when I'm driving. So far I have been able to restart it after a few minutes. I picked up an OBD1 code reader and have run both the KOEO and KOER tests... Both tests pass. From the searching I've been doing, it seems that people have been having trouble with the ignition module and distributor.

Is this a safe assumption to make?

Also, because the truck has such high mileage I was planning on doing the sixlitre tune-up... I've already purchased the cap, rotor, wires, plugs and ignition coil. They are not on the truck yet. I have replaced the fuel filter already and am planning on replacing both fuel pumps (that will have to wait because both tanks are full) plus the rear pump seems to run constantly which leads me to believe its on its way out.

I was looking at distributors and it seems their are 2 types... steel gear and cast iron gear..
-Which do I have and/or how can I find out?

When it comes to the ignition module..
-Which should I get? Grey or Black?

Should I replace the TPS while I am at it? And am i missing anything?

Thanks for your help and I apologize for the long winded thread.

 

Can you elaborate on the statement in bold above? The pump should never run constantly unless the engine is running.

If you need to replace the TFI you need a black CCD-style version.

Your truck should be using a roller cam, you would need a steel gear IIRC.

Do not replace anything until we get more details on the statement in bold above.

 

Thanks for the reply RLA.

So basically... You know when you start the truck you hear the fuel pump kick on for a few seconds... Well the rear pump does this constantly, doesn't stop.. and its loud.

 

Does the front pump do the same when selected? I am sure it does.
Sounds like a bad PCM Computer.

 

The rear pump is probably the problem. Have replaced several to cure this problem.

 

Then you changed the wrong part.

 

The front pump kicks on (pressurize/prime the system?) and then a few seconds later its quiet. Nothing like the rear pump. So far I've realized that no matter which tank I'm using i still get the "stutter/stalling while driving"... It doesn't do it while I'm in park in the driveway.

edit....

Subford.. If the front pump is doing the same thing it is much quieter than the rear and I'm not realizing it.

 

There is only one relay for both fuel pumps.
The computer grounds the coil of the fuel pump relay for one second when you turn on the key.
The selector switch on the dash selects the pump the the power from the fuel pump relay is to go too.

So power can not very from one pump to the other and there is no way a fuel pump can run without power. If it is running for more than one second when you turn on the key and not cranking or the engine is not running the Computer is at fault 95% of the time.
The fuel pump relay could stick closed and run the selected pump without the computer being bad but this does not happen very often.
If a pump runs as soon as the key is turned on and does not shut off unplug the computer and if the pump stops it is the computer. If the pump starts to run as soon as the key is turned on with the computer unplugged then it is the relay.

 

Ran outside and tested the front and rear pump.

Key in ON position, Engine not running
front - primes then shuts off
rear - primes then shuts off (much louder than front pump)

Engine running, switching between tanks
front - can't hear (no noise)
rear - constantly running (sounds like it is constantly priming the system)

Edit....

Did not try to mess with the computer because it's dark out and couldn't really see what I was doing.

 

From your last description it appears the pumps are working normally. Does the stalling problem happen on both tanks? Have you checked the fuel pressure running either tank?

 

The stalling happens with both tanks. I first thought it was the fuel filter because when i first got it the front tank was empty and the rear was about half. Switched it from the front to the rear and it drove fine until i filled them both up. After I filled them it started to stutter and then it tried to stall. Now it'll stall on me while driving. That's why i replaced the filter. the old filter was damn near seized on and when I got it off discolored fuel came out of it. glad i changed it. from the searching I have done people that are having similar problems are saying it was either something with the distributor or the ignition module.

 

With the engine running the selected pump will run all the time the engine is running.
That is normal.

You said "tried to stall". So the engine has never quit on you. That would mean the fuel pump selected is still running. A louder pump can run for a long time or may be getting ready to quit on you.

The fuel pumps do not prime the system an quit. The word priming the system is not a true statement with our era of Ford tucks. When the key is turned on the selected pump will run for one second and quit. This may or may not fill the fuel lines with fuel. You may have to turn the key on and off two or three times to fill the fuel system with fuel if the fuel lines are empty. Our trucks do not have a fuel pressure sensor going to the computer or in the fuel pump to shut it off.
There is a one second timer inside the computer that grounds the fuel pump relay coil for one second each time it sees a PIP pulse from the distributor or when the computer first gets power on its power pins. The fuel pumps run at no other times. The PIP pulse from the distributor comes faster then one second when the engine is cranking or running so the selected pump will run all the time the engine is cranking or running.

The Black ICM very seldom goes bad so I would not think that is your problem. You might want to check its color and if someone has put the wrong Gray one in your truck you might want to change it. The Gray one will run the engine so-so but the engine will not have the power or fuel mileage that it will get with a Black one.

The item that goes bad in the Ignition system most of the time is the PIP sensor (stator). But that is the hardest part to change so most will change out the ICM and the Ignition Coil first but that does not fix there problem most of the time. I have also been hearing that a lot Ignition Switch's going bad lately, that is the switch down low on the column and not the place you put the key in.

 

I'm going to warm it up tonight, maybe try for a quick spin and then see if any codes came up since my most recent trip. I'm going to search these items.. PIP/Stator and ignition switch.

Can you tell me more about this PIP/Stator?

 

OK, so some quick searching.. and...

The PIP is what I was referring to when I was talking about something with the distributor. The PIP is located on the distributor and it seems you have to pull it to replace it. Some have said it is easier to just get a new/remaned.

I guess this leads me back to my first question.... There are 2 types... Steel and Cast Iron...

How do you know what you have? How can I find out?

 

As far as the Steel and Cast Iron, rla2005 already said in post #2:
"Your truck should be using a roller cam, you would need a steel gear IIRC."