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Bent Steering Stabilizer Bracket

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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 05:01 PM
  #1  
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Bent Steering Stabilizer Bracket

All,
I have a 2002 F250 V10 4x4 and need some advice on correcting a bent stabilizer bracket. Below is a picture of what the bracket looks like now. What would be the best\safest option to correct it? I was thinking about using some sort of torch to heat it up, but wanted to solicit advice from an experienced group.

Thank you in advance for your time and advice.

 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 05:36 PM
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You should be able to get on it with a big pry bar to get it down most of way. Then get a big adjustable wrench on it to move it the rest of the way. The bracket bracket jigger is not hard or anything so if you go slow you shouldn't need to heat it although heat will obviously allow it bend easier. Mine was bent a little and I just straightend it out with a big adjustable wrench. Even if the tab breaks off it is super easy to weld back on.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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Impressive bend, guessing the stabilizer is toast now? Or wasn't attached when you hit the rock. Agree, a nice long pry bar will get it back to its previous shape. Might be time for refacing the front rotors? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVwnCA63VlI
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 05:53 PM
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Awesome. Thanks for the advice guys. I wish I could have enjoyed the ride that produced that bend; but unfortunately, it was done before I purchased it ... and the steering stabilizer wasn't attached. BTW ... The rotors are next on the list of resurrected items, just behind the high pressure power steering line, rear drive shaft u-joints, vacuum lines, etc. Thanks again for your help.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 08:15 PM
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I'd heat it first to keep it from snapping off.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 07:32 AM
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When I had to straighten mine I heated it up along the upper bend and used a combination of a pry bar and a hammer to straighten it up. Part of the problem is whatever hits them pushes it back too. It's too strong to cold bend, unless you have a porta power or similar. Heating it won't damage it as long as you allow it to cool naturally and don't quench it, even then I doubt it will affect it much.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 11:07 AM
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The heat [16 oz. can of Bernzomatic Mapp Gas] and pipe wrench worked. It took me all of about 10 minutes. Thanks guys.

 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by aldridgec
Part of the problem is whatever hits them pushes it back too. It's too strong to cold bend, unless you have a porta power or similar.
Should I be concerned about the steering stabilizer not aligning correctly? or will the rotation of the steering rod provide the correct functionality? My intent is to install a Rancho RS5410 single stabilizer. I'm thinking (uh-oh) that if I slightly rotate the tie-rod mounting bracket, it should work fine.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 12:14 PM
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Due to heating you lost all the heat treatment the metal had. Don't think it really matter in this application, but heat should be the last remedy to consider.
Looks like you have pretty new joints, so PO did take care about it to some point.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Kajtek1
Due to heating you lost all the heat treatment the metal had. Don't think it really matter in this application, but heat should be the last remedy to consider.
Interesting. I will make note for future use.

Originally Posted by Kajtek1
Looks like you have pretty new joints, so PO did take care about it to some point.
I wish. Those are a result of the beginning stages of PROJECT: RESURRECTION. With the help of the awesome how-to documentation and videos on FTE, I've replaced\repaired;
  • All Front Ball-Joints,
  • All Shocks,
  • All Tie-Rods,
  • All Front Hub Seals (inner and outer),
  • Front Hubs,
  • P/S Hub Assembly,
  • All Front Axle U-Joints,
  • Front Brake Pads,
  • All Tires (with new-to-me BFG 305/70/16 on Racer Wheels),
  • Neutral Safety Switch
  • Blower Motor Resistor Switch,
  • Swaybar Links,
  • Fuel Filter,
  • Transmission Oil Cooler Line,
  • And now I'm just starting on the Steering Stabilizer.
AND MUCH MUCH MORE to go. I'm enthusiastically looking forward to it. I just have to convince my wife to see it as I do.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 01:00 PM
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Take your wife to one of G2G like we had 3 days ago. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...h-pics-13.html
I hope you bought the truck cheap enough to make up for all those parts?
I bought my F250 just weeks ago and had some things to do on it as well. Good for me mechanically it was solid, but several oil/fuel leaks and had to do flushing of cooling system and transmission when PO replaced broken radiator, but didn't worry about fluids contamination.
Than when you read parallel topic where member is considering spending 20 grands on this year lifted truck sure makes your day.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Kajtek1
Take your wife to one of G2G like we had 3 days ago.
WOW, that looks like good times. Eventually, I'll find something like that in Florida (even for a city-slicker like me).

Originally Posted by Kajtek1
I hope you bought the truck cheap enough to make up for all those parts?
Price paid to Previous Owner: $2500.00
Price paid for parts (so far): $2500.00
Knowledge gained: PRICELESS

Originally Posted by Kajtek1
Than when you read parallel topic where member is considering spending 20 grands on this year lifted truck sure makes your day.
It certainly does ... besides I'd much rather build then buy!
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 09:43 PM
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I seriously doubt that tab had any kind of heat treatment. My only concern with heat is that it would harden it and cause it to crack at some point, very little to worry about

The upper and lower holes may not align properly which is why you would need a hammer to help align the lower hole so the bolt will pass through properly. Otherwise it will work fine.
 
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