Temp Problems
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8,501
Likes: 4
From: Lynchburg, VA
Temp Problems
I took my truck today for the longest drive in 8 months or so. About 35 miles on country roads. It's been bucking and skipping randomly at idle after driving for a few miles, like after it warms up. Of course, it happened on this drive. The temperature gauge, however, didn't move more than 1/8". It was working back in the fall, when short drives would get it up to operating temperature. I was thinking that the thermostat could be stuck open, but I checked the temps around the thermostat housing with an IR thermometer and read a max of 195*. Mixture has been adjusted for highest vacuum, timing checked, no vacuum leaks. Just curious if anyone has any insight.
And on a similar subject, I'm thinking of adding a thermal clutch fan in place of the stock fan spacer. Is it worth it? I assume it will just bolt up in place of the spacer?
Torqflo/Fan Clutch (922710) | 1979 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 8 Cylinders H 5.8L 2BLModified OHV | AutoZone.com
And on a similar subject, I'm thinking of adding a thermal clutch fan in place of the stock fan spacer. Is it worth it? I assume it will just bolt up in place of the spacer?
Torqflo/Fan Clutch (922710) | 1979 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 8 Cylinders H 5.8L 2BLModified OHV | AutoZone.com
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8,501
Likes: 4
From: Lynchburg, VA
Yeah, that's on the list of things to buy. Just curious if it sounded like the rough idle problem could be tied into a stuck open thermostat. But like I said, the thermostat housing was about 195.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,037
Likes: 9
From: Kasson, Minnesota
Have you checked the spark plugs lately? I haven't driven my truck for a while now since it's winter, but before I parked it for the winter, I was having a hard time with the truck running kinda rough and never gave it thought on my plugs because they are basically brand new, but I drive a lot at idle speeds so I figured I'd check and found that they were blackened pretty good. Hopefully, it will solve some of my problem, but something worth looking at considering you have checked many other things.
And I agree with getting an aftermarket temp gauge to see where you are really at before you go trying to troubleshoot more things.
And I agree with getting an aftermarket temp gauge to see where you are really at before you go trying to troubleshoot more things.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8,501
Likes: 4
From: Lynchburg, VA
Pulled 4 of them the other day. Looked good. Insulators were a nice tan color. Did a full tune-up approx 1500 miles ago.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8,501
Likes: 4
From: Lynchburg, VA
I've sprayed carb cleaner all around the carb and haven't found a thing. Maybe there is one and I just haven't found it yet.
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Drive it like ya stole it to clean it out.
And to add... The factory gauge is better at telling outside temps than engine temp.
Josh
And to add... The factory gauge is better at telling outside temps than engine temp.
Josh
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Lynchburg, VA
I have noticed a small pool of oily looking crap on the intake, just below the throttle shaft output. It's possible that the shaft is worn and sucking air...or blowing a small amount of gas, which I suppose would yield similar results.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
Since no one else has touched on the fan clutch part of the first post...
To add the clutch you will need both the clutch assembly and a fan meant for use with a fan clutch, as the center hub in the fan is much larger to allow the clutch to fit.
Stock gauges are not real accurate, as mentioned. Something as simple as low voltage or loose/corroded connection can make them read low. Even the wire going to the sender having a few broken strands inside it can lead to false readings.
They will let you know when something is outside the normal range, once you have gotten used to where they usually tend to run, though. Mechanical gauges are far better, if you really want to know what's going on.
To add the clutch you will need both the clutch assembly and a fan meant for use with a fan clutch, as the center hub in the fan is much larger to allow the clutch to fit.
Stock gauges are not real accurate, as mentioned. Something as simple as low voltage or loose/corroded connection can make them read low. Even the wire going to the sender having a few broken strands inside it can lead to false readings.
They will let you know when something is outside the normal range, once you have gotten used to where they usually tend to run, though. Mechanical gauges are far better, if you really want to know what's going on.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8,501
Likes: 4
From: Lynchburg, VA
Since no one else has touched on the fan clutch part of the first post...
To add the clutch you will need both the clutch assembly and a fan meant for use with a fan clutch, as the center hub in the fan is much larger to allow the clutch to fit.
Stock gauges are not real accurate, as mentioned. Something as simple as low voltage or loose/corroded connection can make them read low. Even the wire going to the sender having a few broken strands inside it can lead to false readings.
They will let you know when something is outside the normal range, once you have gotten used to where they usually tend to run, though. Mechanical gauges are far better, if you really want to know what's going on.
To add the clutch you will need both the clutch assembly and a fan meant for use with a fan clutch, as the center hub in the fan is much larger to allow the clutch to fit.
Stock gauges are not real accurate, as mentioned. Something as simple as low voltage or loose/corroded connection can make them read low. Even the wire going to the sender having a few broken strands inside it can lead to false readings.
They will let you know when something is outside the normal range, once you have gotten used to where they usually tend to run, though. Mechanical gauges are far better, if you really want to know what's going on.
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