The infamous chirp
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
If you've torn it down that far, you could possibly pull the LPOP cover and inspect the gerotor gears for scoring and damage. That'll tell you real quick, if you have any roller lifter needle bearings (or anything else) that might have failed. By removing the drive belt and running the engine with the noise still present, you have eliminated the belt and EVERYTHING it drives as the source.
Something else to consider. Believe it or not, these engines CAN be started and ran with the transmission removed. I have done it a few times.
Something else to consider. Believe it or not, these engines CAN be started and ran with the transmission removed. I have done it a few times.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
Ive never pulled the front cover off. Ive heard that I could mess up something with the crank if I dont cut the sealant????? Any quick pointers for removing the front cover. Can I leave the intake on? Thanks in advance mchan, and william for the fix on the link. Should I go ahead and replace the lpop while im in there? Or at least have one in hand ready to replace? Theres prob very little chance in the noise being the lpop huh?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
I never said anything about removing the front cover, only the LPOP cover (five bolts after you've removed the four 18mm bolts and the crank pulley) for access to the gerotor inner and outer gear for inspection. If any damage is found, then SOMETHING went through it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
To change out a cam and lifters requires engine removal, cylinder heads, all eight piston and rod assemblies, bedplate, crankshaft and lastly the cam. In that exact order too. It's not so much the parts that are expensive but the labour required to change it out.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
Dang, so thats why most would just call blackstone huh,,, Pardon my ignorance, but when you say crank pulley, you are talking about the pulley that spins while running without the drive belt on? Is it also called the harmonic balancer??? if so, then behind that I can get access to the lpop? Thanks again.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Dang, so thats why most would just call blackstone huh,,, Pardon my ignorance, but when you say crank pulley, you are talking about the pulley that spins while running without the drive belt on? Is it also called the harmonic balancer??? if so, then behind that I can get access to the lpop? Thanks again.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
Should I have the oil drained? Will a lot leak out? Sorry for all the questions. Thank you again.
Last edited by run6.0run; Apr 16, 2012 at 12:00 AM. Reason: stupid question, I could look it up myself
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
https://rotunda.spx.com/en-US/Pages/...x?itemID=18653
Tool number 303-761
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
X2 on those ?'s.
Btw, what is also kinda wierd, if you look ast when this thread started, I think this was about 30k mi ago when it first started chirping. Then it went away for about 30k mi. now its back.
Btw, what is also kinda wierd, if you look ast when this thread started, I think this was about 30k mi ago when it first started chirping. Then it went away for about 30k mi. now its back.
Tuned
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
I too had this problem. Noone could figure it out, i changed water pump and various pulleys and still had it. I had the bearings changed in the alternator and hear the noise one time that day and never again. prob been 3,000 miles and sounds great still. Hoping it doesnt come come back in 30,000 again. Or maybe by then someone figures it out. Mine was exactly the same noise.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,735
Likes: 0
From: TX
Hey man, I had the exact same problem I, sounds like it anyway.
F250 noise under turbo - YouTube
I replaced the STC fitting when I did the EGR delete to no avail. It ran like a top and never skipped a beat. I talked to M-Chan and Cheezit and it was leaning towards being a lifter as well. In some ways, I lucked out and the ex wife totaled the truck so we got paid.
Subscribing.
F250 noise under turbo - YouTube
I replaced the STC fitting when I did the EGR delete to no avail. It ran like a top and never skipped a beat. I talked to M-Chan and Cheezit and it was leaning towards being a lifter as well. In some ways, I lucked out and the ex wife totaled the truck so we got paid.
Subscribing.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
at least I dont feel so alone now. Hopefully someone on here has broken it down after having that noise. I am sure if enough time passes, I'm gonna be forced to find the answer. I haven't pulled the oil pump cover yet. Can I just pull the cover and inspect without messing with the front crank seal?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,673
Likes: 6
Hey man, I had the exact same problem I, sounds like it anyway.
F250 noise under turbo - YouTube
I replaced the STC fitting when I did the EGR delete to no avail. It ran like a top and never skipped a beat. I talked to M-Chan and Cheezit and it was leaning towards being a lifter as well. In some ways, I lucked out and the ex wife totaled the truck so we got paid.
Subscribing.
F250 noise under turbo - YouTube
I replaced the STC fitting when I did the EGR delete to no avail. It ran like a top and never skipped a beat. I talked to M-Chan and Cheezit and it was leaning towards being a lifter as well. In some ways, I lucked out and the ex wife totaled the truck so we got paid.
Subscribing.
