I cant wait until your results. I took my belt off and still had the chirp. The only place that I could hear it was on the rear passenger side of the hpop cover while wearing the stethescope. What I mean is when I touched the cover with the stethescope probe that was the only place that I could hear it through the stethescope (but I did that with the engine reassembled because I didn't want to run the engine for a prolonged time without the belt on).

 

Did you put the stethoscope on the turbo at shutdown?

 

yes, I read all the posts about the turbo being the culprit so I paid special attention to it. It was definataly coming from the hpop tho. Or at least the cover is where I could hear it. I have been wondering if the hpop has anything in it that could cause a squeak. One thing that I am ashamed of is that I am not sure if I have the updated stc fitting. The truck normally takes about 3 sec to start (which seems kinds long) so I will be getting in there to replace it soon. I have been that far into it a couple times and am not at all concerned or sad about having to get back in there. I would like to have a better understanding about the inside of the hpop and if it could cause the chirp, or if I need to pull the engine and replumb the whole system. I have been reading about the adrenaline hpop, anyone have exp with it?

 

Mine has had this shutdown chirp

Its only when I shut it off I figure I need a new Belt I have 85K on this belt so its about time for a new one not shure when the recomended change interval is. From what I figure when I shut it down the Dampner pulley on the crankshaft stops and the Belt and all the accesorys still have a little momentum especialy the waTER pump still has a little flow going and gives alittle belt chirp.

Sorrey I have nothing really useful that could help you pinpoint your problem


BTW thats some pretty Impressive milage you have on that 6.0 something all of us hope to make it to that Milestone


Good Luck with it Im shure that you will get it figured out hopefulley sooner than later

 

Thanks blade, btw, I have been mainly highway constant rpm's, but I just replaced my second belt and have gotten over 200k on each belt, one was fomoco, the next was a gates. niether are damaged, I just feel I got my moneys worth. fyi on the interval (mine that is).
I am thinking about letting it be for a while to see if it gets worse, however I would much rather work on her when I want. My work takes me with my truck all over and it would suck to have to do the hpop 1400mi from home in who knows what temperature outside.

 

Well I'm off to work again. Left KC headed to Indiana then to Florida. The sound is very noticeable at an idle. I'm wondering if there is a leak with my stc fitting, could it be small enough that the high pressure oil exiting in a fine stream could cause this? Will photobucket let me post a video? This chirp seems like its getting worse. Maybe the bearings in the hpop. I'm ok changing the stc fitting, but if someone else has had this issue and its the hpop, well that's a bit more expensive. I'm just looking for as much info a possible. Thanks guys

 

Well I'm off to work again. Left KC headed to Indiana then to Florida. The sound is very noticeable at an idle. I'm wondering if there is a leak with my stc fitting, could it be small enough that the high pressure oil exiting in a fine stream could cause this? Will photobucket let me post a video? This chirp seems like its getting worse. Maybe the bearings in the hpop. I'm ok changing the stc fitting, but if someone else has had this issue and its the hpop, well that's a bit more expensive. I'm just looking for as much info a possible. Thanks guys

 

So from what I'm told on other threads, this noise could be a lifter? If so, then I've got to get it fixed. Can't risk it going down a couple thousand miles from home. Any input on this would be great. Any diagnostic routines to confirm this. I haven't had a chance to get the service manual out, but is engine replacement my only answer?

 

If the lifter hasn't failed to the point scattering bearings through the motor and taking out a camshaft lobe then you can simply replace the lifter. I know on the 03/04 motors you have to get the HPOP branch tube out to get to the rear lifters. Pulling the branch tube requires pulling the back cover off the motor, which means removing the motor OR the transmission. I'm not sure if it's the same on the 05 and up motors.

 

Whew, nice, how do I get to the front lifters?

 

I don't think there's any way to get to any of them without removing the heads. The front ones are "in and out" IIRC. It's the back half that's difficult.

 

Upload video to YouTube . I would like to hear it. Sometimes words just don't cut it

 

run6.0run, I don't know any other way to tell you this, other than to be blunt and brutally honest. It is just as hard for me to tell you this when I don't even know you from Adam, as it would be, if it were a regular customer coming in through the front door of the dealership I work at. You've already indicated very clearly that you hear the noise, EVEN WITH THE BELT REMOVED FROM THE ENGINE. That piece of information right then and there, eliminates EVERYTHING in the accessory belt drive as the culprit. Kudos to you for being intelligent enough to have performed this first preliminary diagnostic step to "noise chasing". Some seasoned "mechanics" wouldn't even have bothered going this far before proceeding with a parts replacement diagnosis strategy, which is not the approach I like to take, particularly on an engine where just about all parts are pretty expensive.

One truck that I wrenched on fairly recently comes to mind. This truck was a 2007 F-350 that showed up on my doorstep with the complaint of an oil leak that the owner wanted addressed. The first step to any repair that lands into my hands is to check OASIS and repair history. Well, it appeared that this vehicle had already had TWO rear main seals replaced, the last one as recently as six months ago at another dealer. Putting two and two together, I wasn't about to replace rear main seal #3. Looking more closely at it, the engine was bone dry up top, as was the CMP and CKP sensors. The sides of the block were a little "damp", pointing almost directly to a bedplate seal as the source of the leak. So, as I proceeded to rip the cab off the frame to yank the engine, I had the engine out and disassembled down to the HPOP and top cover removed. It was at this point that I noticed one of the cam lobes worn almost completely flat (either cylinder #7 or #8, can't remember). At this point was when I removed the crank pulley and LPOP cover to look at the gears. Sure enough, the gears were scored a little with debris. Funny thing though, is this engine ran BEAUTIFULLY. I wouldn't have known that this issue was present had I not disassembled it down to this point. Obviously the LPOP was still functioning well enough to supply oil pressure to the HPOP in order for the engine to run, despite being scarred up pretty good. I guess it hadn't failed badly enough to the point of causing the engine to shut down YET. Long story short, I submitted a cost-cap quote to FoMoCo, and literally within 10 minutes I received a reply back from them, instructing me to put in a long block, without hassling me for more information or requests to disassemble further. So just to recap, the owner came in, with the intent on having his oil leak repaired, and got his truck back with a new long block. Talk about hitting the jackpot. I believe this particular truck was about one month away from having his diesel engine component warranty expire.

If that is in fact what the issue is with your truck, bear in mind that the camshaft is LITERALLY the very last part removed from this engine. To access it requires engine removal, cylinder heads removed, front and rear covers removed, HPOP and oil cooler removed, branch tube removed, engine mounted on a proper stand and turned upside down to have all eight piston and rod assemblies removed, bedplate removed, crankshaft removed, and lastly camshaft slid out the rear side of the engine block. And they are removed in that exact order.

Take this information for what it's worth.

 

That is what I was wondering when you have lifter issues. I had heard/read somewhere that once you start dealing with lifters/camshaft issues....your just about better off going with a long block. Thank you for helping clear that confusion (on my part) up.

 

Whoa, how common are lifter/cam issues? How can you avoid lifter failure? I don't want one...