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picked up truck yesterday. 5,470.00 dollars on top of 2300.00. got the truck home seems to run fine. But now there is a puddle of oil under the truck. Can't tell for sure, but it doesn't look like it's coming from the pan. It's leaking out the inspection cover on the transmission. I took it for a ride and stopped at a store and after 15 minutes there was a 5" round puddle of oil. I brought it home and within 10 minutes just about the same thing. I know he's going to say it's promars fault and it might be. But i've pretty much exhausted all patience. So far I bought the engine and the heddman headers. He has bought a water pump, belt, filter adaptor, lower radiator hose, universal joint, drivers side ball joints, intermediate pipe,muffler,tailpipe and put on *new 250 dollar mile marker hubs (without my say so) and misc. fluids. Anyway do you think 7,800 bucks is a bit steep for an engine swap,ball joints and exhaust? I really do not want to at this point take any responsability for the repair of this oil leak, especially if it turns out to be the rear main seal or worse. But, Promar does not allow enough money for this and I might end up eating the difference. The mechanic or Promar do not know there's a problem yet. But at this point there will be hell to pay if I have to spend another dime. The mechanic gave me the impression after the first bill that the rest would be a cake walk. So I was figuring another 2-3 K. The guy left me with 40 bucks in my account and 3k of that money is owed to my supply houses. Know a good lawyer?
Well will be watching your future finding's on the leak problem you have...Sorry to hear the amount of your cash outlay.
They seemed to think that it is not likely that the rear main seal is leaking. I'm waiting on the written bill. He only had it written down in a notebook. I paid the verbal bill after looking at his notes. I can't find the oil leak so it is going back and now there is an antifreeze leak that i haven't found out where that is coming from either. I'm holding off to even talk to him until I get the written bill and see if I can find out for sure myself where the leaks are coming from.
Check for an oil leak at the back of the intake, if it's leaking there it sometimes runs down inside the bellhousing... I'm not saying that is where it is but it is often overlooked...
I looked for the oil leak with lights and mirrors and wiped a rag around back there and came up empty.DAMN! As far as the antifreeze goes most of the clamps were not tight. So that seems to be taken care of. Is there anything that needed to be plugged on the back of the engine that he might have missed or is the only place left the rear main seal? I'm going to call promar monday and see what they can do. Right now I'm broke from this @#%#@ bandit, so i'm hoping that promar will have some ideas. Maybe I could take the truck to one of there dealers and get it fixed.
It drips onto the y-pipe when running and after it shuts down it leaves a 4-5 inch puddle.
So, about a tablespoon???
I would think if he didn't bother to re-tighten the hoses after they took a set he may not have bothered to use sealant on the oil pressure sender or moved the rubber seal at the rear of the intake.
If it's not a valve cover, the back of the lower intake manifold or the oil pressure sender, there's nothing else I can think of that would leak externally.
The only things inside the bellhousing are the oil gallery plugs and the rear main seal.
An old trick we used to use to find oil leaks on British bikes was to clean everything with carb or brake cleaner (absolutely dry)
and use spray foot powder (like Desenex) on the engine.
The white film will show the leak right away.
Don't run it long, because oil travels and you'll lose the exact spot.
All the outer parts of the engine is dry, front, back, sides. I can see the sender and the back of the intake. I think the tranny is going to have to come out. rear main seal, cam cover, bolts that are not sealed properly? I know the mechanic is not going to take any responsability for this. He is more than likely going to blame it on promar. I can't stay there and watch him pull it apart to see what's going on and who's fault it is and now I can't afford to have him charge me anymore money. The other problem that I can see coming is that I purchased the engine and had it delivered to his shop. I can hear it now... I didn't buy it....not my problem....they must have done something wrong when they put it together... not me. What a damn mess. I questioned his first bill and he explained what a bear it was to get the engine out(in the business for over 30 years) 2340.00. Hmmm, O.K. But he assured me that it would go in alot easier. Trucks done he says..what the damage 5,474.00 more. So to replace an engine that I bought, drivers side ball joints,universal, int. pipe,muffler, tailpipe, belt, hose and a water pump comes to a grand total of 7,814.00? WHAT? And it's still screwed up!
You got hosed. I had a custom fully forged motor built and installed in my mustang for $5000. I wonder what his hourly rate is. Also, what milemarker hubs cost $250? The most expensive ones I've seen were just over $100.
I chased an oil leak in my 97 350-460 power.
My good friend and mechanic told me it was probably the rear seal and he had done lots of them in past.
I have my own back yard shop and just enuf tools to tackle it so i started the project planning on the rear main....this truck being 4x4 crew cab had me going one direction for the repair and the engine seperated from the tranny....then to our suprise....no rear seal leak....
Broken pan gasket....which would have saved countless hours of work...so look carefully before you assume what is causing the leak....