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460 long block

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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 06:34 AM
  #16  
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Slip ford man
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From: Calverton
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
I don't know where you are. It's not filled out in your profile...

If you lose the computer you're going to need another ignition system.
The DuraSpark 2 ignition system (distributor, coil, ignition module, harness) from a truck like mine is probably the simplest reliable thing going.
No points to clean and check.
It was in millions and millions of Ford vehicles from the late '70's until the last of the carbureted trucks in 1987.


Thank you, I live in eastern long island...the ignition sounds easy to find, I would love to go ahead with the project. My motor is real tired, that why I bought that block and heads. I wanted to have a weekend drop in after the rebuild, while still being able to use the truck till then.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 07:41 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Slip ford man
Thank you, I live in eastern long island...the ignition sounds easy to find, I would love to go ahead with the project. My motor is real tired, that why I bought that block and heads. I wanted to have a weekend drop in after the rebuild, while still being able to use the truck till then.



North or south fork?

Everything except the harness should be able to find at any parts store.
You can buy a new DSII harness, but some (like Painless) are stupid expensive.
If you can find a late '70's-> early '80's Ford at the junkyard with the blue grommet ignition module; take the coil & bracket, vacuum distributor, ignition module and the wiring harness between them... all the way back to the firewall plugs.
Your EFI truck won't have the proper ballast resistor wire in the cab side ignition wiring, so you might go up under the dash and get that too.

There are dozens of threads on doing this to earlier feedback carb models with the TFI ignition.
Start yourself a new thread if you decide to go this way with your currently EFI truck and some of us can walk you through.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 02:10 PM
  #18  
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From: Calverton
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk



North or south fork?

Everything except the harness should be able to find at any parts store.
You can buy a new DSII harness, but some (like Painless) are stupid expensive.
If you can find a late '70's-> early '80's Ford at the junkyard with the blue grommet ignition module; take the coil & bracket, vacuum distributor, ignition module and the wiring harness between them... all the way back to the firewall plugs.
Your EFI truck won't have the proper ballast resistor wire in the cab side ignition wiring, so you might go up under the dash and get that too.

There are dozens of threads on doing this to earlier feedback carb models with the TFI ignition.
Start yourself a new thread if you decide to go this way with your currently EFI truck and some of us can walk you through.

Calverton, right in the crotch of the forks. Well Jim I'll start collecting what I need. Thanks again, sorry for the
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 02:17 PM
  #19  
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(OT) Used to fly rockets at the airfield there before the whole TWA 800 thing closed that off to us. (/OT)

Hope your re-power is an easy weekend swap for you.
Sounds like the OP is going to enjoy his Promar longblock too!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 02:41 PM
  #20  
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From: Calverton
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
(OT) Used to fly rockets at the airfield there before the whole TWA 800 thing closed that off to us. (/OT)

Hope your re-power is an easy weekend swap for you.
Sounds like the OP is going to enjoy his Promar longblock too!

okay op, I swear this is the last ...Jim, I'm a ex rocketeer, mainly school parking lots
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 03:43 PM
  #21  
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Exhaust manifolds? Stock or maybe Hedman ceramic shorties?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 04:11 PM
  #22  
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You don't mention the trucks intended purpose.
Just that you "need to get it on the road ASAP"

Is it 4x4?
Is it going to be your DD?
What are your emissions regulations in Mass?
How much are you looking to spend on the entire exhaust system?

Not so many choices in compatible headers for SD EFI trucks, even less with a standard or four wheel drive.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 09:47 PM
  #23  
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use

plowing & scrap hauler...
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 04:53 AM
  #24  
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Well then it doesn't need to be a rocketship.
If it were me I would stick with the stock manifolds.
They are quiet and long lasting.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 05:37 AM
  #25  
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same price

The ones on the motor are not in good shape and for 40 bucks more I can get the ceramic hedmans with a new Y pipe.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 06:07 AM
  #26  
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Then go for it.

Ceramic shorties should last and not cause fitment problems.
I've really never played with the exhaust on EFI engines.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 06:03 AM
  #27  
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labor?

Motor is out of the truck and the engine is coming in monday. I asked if the mechanic needed any money for what he's done so far. Stupid question. But I wanted to make sure if he needed any I would get him some for the work he's done so far. He told me he had 28 hrs in the truck??? O.K. The job started as an oil pan and an exhaust manifold job. He started with the exhaust manifold and found that the head was junk. At that time he was up to 300 bucks. Then I decided to scrap the engine and put in a long block. I can't imagine a competant mechanic would take 20 hrs to pull an engine. So as far as right now he is saying the labor costs are up to 2300.00. Is it really possible? I can't imagine it taking that long unless you where using one ajustable wrench and a 6 in 1 screwdriver.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 06:18 AM
  #28  
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I can't see it either.
I don't have fuel injection but I had my engine out and on the ground in about 4 hours.
IN MY DRIVEWAY, not up on a lift with the benefit of air tools.
Plus, he already had the intake, exhaust and heads off the truck, so the coolant was drained, harnesses removed etc....

What's left?
Bellhousing bolts and motor mounts?
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 06:49 AM
  #29  
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I'm going to go see him monday after I calm down a bit. Hopefully some of the labor was doing the ball joints on the drivers side for both of our sake. I kind of got the deer in the headlights when he told me what the labor was up to and didn't ask if he had started on that job.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 01:33 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by nacman
Motor is out of the truck and the engine is coming in monday. I asked if the mechanic needed any money for what he's done so far. Stupid question. But I wanted to make sure if he needed any I would get him some for the work he's done so far. He told me he had 28 hrs in the truck??? O.K. The job started as an oil pan and an exhaust manifold job. He started with the exhaust manifold and found that the head was junk. At that time he was up to 300 bucks. Then I decided to scrap the engine and put in a long block. I can't imagine a competant mechanic would take 20 hrs to pull an engine. So as far as right now he is saying the labor costs are up to 2300.00. Is it really possible? I can't imagine it taking that long unless you where using one ajustable wrench and a 6 in 1 screwdriver.


Go around to a couple of shops and ask for a writen estimate on the same work that the jerk did. Then confront him with the estimates, and bargan him down...he is really slamming you on hours/labor, nice guy
 
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