If it comes to that I will. Thanks for the idea. Wasn't an option I had thought of. At least yours doesn't end me in jail..

 

Engine is out and looks like it ws pulled from the bay. It has an oil cooler that looks to be in very tough shape and I don't want it put back on my new engine. I've done some searching and came up with an idea that I hope will work. Ford Racing m-6880-a50 and a flexalite 3951 oil cooler. I was wondering if I it would work. If I can get the ford racing adaptor on and bolt the flexalite oil cooler to that will I have the clearance? If just for now will the ford racing adaptor work?

 

It's for a 78 block; D5TZ6881A. It's an adaptor block for a 460 and it looks to have ports for an oil cooler.

 

The part you listed appears to be a right angle filter adapter, at least on Summit & Amazon.



Does your truck have the problematic oil to water cooler 'nightmare' at the block?

 

Problem is that the oil cooler on the old engine is trashed. I liked the idea of the 78 ford 460 adaptor with cooling ports if that is what I saw on the pic.

 

Is yours two, or four wheel drive?
I just looked at the part number and found that it isn't a remote ,, anything.
Just the right angle filter adapter.
That's all I have and I don't seem to have a problem overheating my oil, even hauling a 24' trailer to Florida and back.
I'm not sure why Ford decided to put that monstrosity on the fuel injected engines but I doubt it's necessary.

Plenty of aftermarket companies like L&L make remote filter adapters.
Surely you can plumb a cooler in the line too before it goes back into the engine.

 

It's 4 wheel drive. I hope it doesn't have to be a remote filter assembly. New long block was getting assembled the other day. With any luck it's going in today and then I guess I'll get a call if the ford racing adaptor works or not.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370544680978...84.m1423.l2649 This is what I saw on Ebay.

 

I don't know what you mean by "cooling ports".
The Ford Racing adapter angles the filter forward to clear the crossmember.
You need the block insert to bolt that part on.

 

Sorry, I was replying to your first post.

Your link is broken, I found it anyhow.
I doubt the van adapter will fit in a later model 4wd truck.
The frames and crossmembers are entirely different.

 

Well I guess I'll have to wait and see when the motor gets put back in. The old adaptor would be a great replacement if it would fit, then by the looks of the thing I could add a cooler if needed.

 

Nothing changed with the boss in the block, so if there IS clearance it should fit.
I cannot say as I have neither a '70's Econoline or a 1995 F-250.

 

engines going in today. All put together and painted. then new exhaust and drivers side ball joints and universal.

 

picked up truck yesterday. 5,470.00 dollars on top of 2300.00. got the truck home seems to run fine. But now there is a puddle of oil under the truck. Can't tell for sure, but it doesn't look like it's coming from the pan. It's leaking out the inspection cover on the transmission. I took it for a ride and stopped at a store and after 15 minutes there was a 5" round puddle of oil. I brought it home and within 10 minutes just about the same thing. I know he's going to say it's promars fault and it might be. But i've pretty much exhausted all patience. So far I bought the engine and the heddman headers. He has bought a water pump, belt, filter adaptor, lower radiator hose, universal joint, drivers side ball joints, intermediate pipe,muffler,tailpipe and put on *new 250 dollar mile marker hubs (without my say so) and misc. fluids. Anyway do you think 7,800 bucks is a bit steep for an engine swap,ball joints and exhaust? I really do not want to at this point take any responsability for the repair of this oil leak, especially if it turns out to be the rear main seal or worse. But, Promar does not allow enough money for this and I might end up eating the difference. The mechanic or Promar do not know there's a problem yet. But at this point there will be hell to pay if I have to spend another dime. The mechanic gave me the impression after the first bill that the rest would be a cake walk. So I was figuring another 2-3 K. The guy left me with 40 bucks in my account and 3k of that money is owed to my supply houses. Know a good lawyer?

 

I'm stunned.
How much of that $5,470 is in parts?

Not sure what the laws are in Mass. but auto repair shops are licensed through the DMV here in Connecticut.
You're entitled to a written estimate before repairs begin. (there may be a diagnosis fee)

Unauthorized repairs, like your $250 hubs, would be against the law too.

So, you only have 25 minutes on it now???

I don't know if the RMS is at fault. But your mechanic should have seen that it was properly seated when he bolted up the pan and flywheel.

I'm pretty sure Promar would have surfaced the crank, or sleeved it if it were deeply scored.

There are oil gallery plugs in the back of the block that may be the source of the leak, but it's hard to say anything from here.
If they were missing entirely you wouldn't have any oil pressure to speak of.