I have changed everything
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,092
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From: Casa Grande
You don't have a resistor wire or ceramic resistor? Never seen one like that, well till they started using computerized and newer type ignitions. All the cars I've ever seen or worked on in the last 45+ years used some form of resistor to cut voltage to the coil in run mode.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,092
Likes: 2
From: Casa Grande
If it doesn't have the white ceramic style resistor, usually mounted on the firewall, it might have a resistor wire in the wiring harness. Or if you no loner have the old round style coil and instead have the newer square style it probably doesn't need a resistor circuit. The newer type coils can take full battery voltage in run but the older round ones need voltage to be around 7v in run or they don't last long.
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 339
Likes: 3
From: Saudia Arabia
Still didn't check if my truck ignition is the resistor type or not, but I do have the round type coil, see my truck is 66 year model and that square type coil wasn't exist at then, it worth searching on my truck ignition system, maybe I am missing that ceramic resistor and its affect on engine performance.
I drove my truck 125 miles this afternoon with couple of stops at the gas station and at a friend of mine who has a property in the suburbs. Driving between 65-70 mph is fun with engine responding to acceleration in all speeds, just feel like idle is a little low, will see that tomorrow.
Is the resistor wire the one coming from the starter solenoid, mine is a common wire like all others, what it looks like?, does it has affect on the voltage going to the coli or out to the distributor?.
I drove my truck 125 miles this afternoon with couple of stops at the gas station and at a friend of mine who has a property in the suburbs. Driving between 65-70 mph is fun with engine responding to acceleration in all speeds, just feel like idle is a little low, will see that tomorrow.
Is the resistor wire the one coming from the starter solenoid, mine is a common wire like all others, what it looks like?, does it has affect on the voltage going to the coli or out to the distributor?.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
The resistor wire leads from the ignition switch to the coil, I think they're pink and seem to be lots thicker than a standard wire in that loom.
I forget their ohm measurements - something like 1.1 to 1.3 ohms but don't take my word on it.
I forget their ohm measurements - something like 1.1 to 1.3 ohms but don't take my word on it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,092
Likes: 2
From: Casa Grande
Thank critterf1, couldn't remember exactly what the voltage was.
IMO it really isn't worth the effort to find it unless you just want to because it's probably buried in the wiring harness. As long as your truck is running it's good. And if it didn't have one you would have probably already fried the coil. It's one of those things that you just don't think about until it dies.
But if it ever goes to starting but dies as soon as you let up on the key that would be the first thing to look for.
IMO it really isn't worth the effort to find it unless you just want to because it's probably buried in the wiring harness. As long as your truck is running it's good. And if it didn't have one you would have probably already fried the coil. It's one of those things that you just don't think about until it dies.
But if it ever goes to starting but dies as soon as you let up on the key that would be the first thing to look for.
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 339
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From: Saudia Arabia
Now I got 214 Miles on the engine after installing all the new ignition stuff with the new Carter YFA 1 brl carb, engine works great except a little rough at Idle, no misses in all speeds.
I figured that rough idle is due to low vacuum, and IMO the correction is adjusting the idle speed with the mixture screw, maybe it is below specifications.
I figured that rough idle is due to low vacuum, and IMO the correction is adjusting the idle speed with the mixture screw, maybe it is below specifications.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
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From: Boise, Idaho
Certainly give that a try. Once the truck is warmed up, it will honestly take you about 5 minutes.
Start the truck, warm it up, pop the hood, hook up the vacuum gauge, rotate the idle mixture screw until you get peak vacuum.
Glad to hear the truck is running well though! Are you overall pleased with it?
Start the truck, warm it up, pop the hood, hook up the vacuum gauge, rotate the idle mixture screw until you get peak vacuum.
Glad to hear the truck is running well though! Are you overall pleased with it?
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 339
Likes: 3
From: Saudia Arabia
Yes I am A.B, the Ford F100 truck specially the 66 year model is a unique in Saudia Arabia and the Golf area. I love cruising the highway on this truck, lots of folks admire and have a happy smile.
With that twin I beam suspension, truck height from ground, and stability on road makes driving a real pleasure. There is a public model around here which kinda obsolete in the U.S, it is the F350.
Back to idle adjustment, don't you think the peak vacuum will throw the idle RPM out of limit?. I will do that tomorrow. Thanks for sharing your experience.
With that twin I beam suspension, truck height from ground, and stability on road makes driving a real pleasure. There is a public model around here which kinda obsolete in the U.S, it is the F350.
Back to idle adjustment, don't you think the peak vacuum will throw the idle RPM out of limit?. I will do that tomorrow. Thanks for sharing your experience.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Sounds like an awesome truck to have. 
Very cool.
For idle adjustment, it's very possible that it'll change your idle RPMs. If it does, that means it was out of adjustment.
If the idle RPMs change when you adjust for peak vacuum, adjust the idle RPMs until they're back where they should be. Once you reset the idle RPMs, readjust the idle mixture screw again for peak vacuum. If it changes the idle RPMs, adjust the RPMs again. Repeat, repeat, until they're both happy. Usually, it only takes once or twice.
Very cool.For idle adjustment, it's very possible that it'll change your idle RPMs. If it does, that means it was out of adjustment.
If the idle RPMs change when you adjust for peak vacuum, adjust the idle RPMs until they're back where they should be. Once you reset the idle RPMs, readjust the idle mixture screw again for peak vacuum. If it changes the idle RPMs, adjust the RPMs again. Repeat, repeat, until they're both happy. Usually, it only takes once or twice.
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 339
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From: Saudia Arabia
On the 11 Mar I done what AB told me, that was easy and resulted in smooth idling, and real smooth. Using the mix screw to increase the vac and then adjust the idle speed has a noticeable effect on engine idling.
I left my town in a 1200 mile cruise, had no problems, the cruise was very nice. I went to join a classic Ford truck gathering, will will see the photos I took in another thread titled" We do have Ford truck super-national".
Thanks for all of you who shared me your ideas in this thread. It is really good experience.
I left my town in a 1200 mile cruise, had no problems, the cruise was very nice. I went to join a classic Ford truck gathering, will will see the photos I took in another thread titled" We do have Ford truck super-national".
Thanks for all of you who shared me your ideas in this thread. It is really good experience.
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