new engine problem
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2007
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new engine problem
so heres what i got. I put a brand new engine in my truck 460, and it is an 86 f250. So I just put it in timed it, everything on the ignition side is new, wires plugs cap rotor coil and ignition module. it also has a brand new carbuerator. Edelbrock 750. I have an inline filter that stays at least half full during the whole time i snap the throttle open. SO i was driving it home after switching motors. i live 11 miles from where i changed it and after i got over this huge hill if you give it a lot of gas, it will not accelerate, the engine will chug and shake so bad and if you let off it it would smoothe out and go away until you try to gas it again, and by the time i got home it wouldnt hardly run even if you barely give it gas. Now i know what your thinking and yes it has a full tank. also like i said i can watch it get fuel thru my inline any ideas?
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i think the fuel filter should be full of fuel
what kind of fuel pump-manual or electric
if manual r u sure the pump was installed properly
i would disconnect fuel line after filter and add some
more hose to pump into can
should be a strong shot of gas
be real careful
good luck
gt
what kind of fuel pump-manual or electric
if manual r u sure the pump was installed properly
i would disconnect fuel line after filter and add some
more hose to pump into can
should be a strong shot of gas
be real careful
good luck
gt
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Junior User
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well it is a brand new edelbrock carbuerator, i can see it has a good spray pattern, so i dont think it is the culprit. However the whole fuel filter thing, it has electric pumps in the tank, when this started happing also, i dont know if it is related, the fuel gauge stopped working both tanks, maybe a fuse tripped, or they might not be pumping at all but the engine maybe pulling the fuel up by itself? im not sure. So could there be something there going on where they arent pumping at all thanks
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also havent checked vacuum advance timing is retarded 7 degrees , i thought electrical at first cus my coil was hissing like a snake so thats why i replaced all that, it also isnt overcharging. when it does this the engine shakes like crazy it is a crate motor and eveything is new 70lbs oil pressure running 195 temp, 14 volts charging. thanks
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timing is retarded 7 degrees
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Quad Cities, IA
I would say a fuel pressure issue as well. Fuel filter only half full while driving seems a little questionable. All my carb'd vehicles with in-line filters had them at least mostly full, if not completely while the vehicle was running.
The timing thing, yeah... It needs to be advanced somewhere around 10* to 12* BTC (if I remember correctly).
The timing thing, yeah... It needs to be advanced somewhere around 10* to 12* BTC (if I remember correctly).
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Junior User
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well i advanced it but it didnt run better it is at 10*btc still no change any other ideas?
it is hooked up to the constant vacuum side or the right side of the edel carb....any ideas on what causes the gauges in the truck for fuel not to work???? is that related to this fuel issue..thanks
it is hooked up to the constant vacuum side or the right side of the edel carb....any ideas on what causes the gauges in the truck for fuel not to work???? is that related to this fuel issue..thanks
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im not sure when i had the old engine in it ran the best on that side or the right side, the great instructions said run it on the side that it runs the best. thats all i know, now mind you it started running like crap after i was half way home, ran great first half i dont believe it is the vacuum advance..... thanks though
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
IIRC people generally recommend to hook the vacuum advance to a source that has little or no vacuum at idle.
Concerning your gauges, read:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ding-unit.html
You can check the pressure & flow rate of the fuel at the carb, get a fuel/vacuum gauge and a coffee can (to measure the flow).
-ct
Concerning your gauges, read:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ding-unit.html
You can check the pressure & flow rate of the fuel at the carb, get a fuel/vacuum gauge and a coffee can (to measure the flow).
-ct
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From: Quad Cities, IA
That's what I thought as well, ctubutis.
Going back to the topic of this thread, you might try taking the top of the carb off and making 100% sure none of the needles are sticking. Edelbrocks are good carbs, but I've had them do funky things in the past (yes, even brand new out of the box). It could be that when you were driving it home that first time, it ran ok cold, but when the engine warmed up to a certain point it caused something in the carb to stick.
Edelbrocks are fairly easy to do that to, just make sure you don't lose any of the tiny little parts that are inside. They're a pain to find replacements for.
Going back to the topic of this thread, you might try taking the top of the carb off and making 100% sure none of the needles are sticking. Edelbrocks are good carbs, but I've had them do funky things in the past (yes, even brand new out of the box). It could be that when you were driving it home that first time, it ran ok cold, but when the engine warmed up to a certain point it caused something in the carb to stick.
Edelbrocks are fairly easy to do that to, just make sure you don't lose any of the tiny little parts that are inside. They're a pain to find replacements for.