Changing plugs?
Junior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 82
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Changing plugs?
Big Orn: Use di-electric grease. Works good on trailer electric plugs, too.
I suspect the FoMoCo mech is 'selling what he's got'. The blowouts I've read about are all on factory installed plugs, mostly '99s.
I suspect the FoMoCo mech is 'selling what he's got'. The blowouts I've read about are all on factory installed plugs, mostly '99s.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
Changing plugs?
Yea, i reckon so. Seems to me that a bad plug hole is a bad plug hole. But I was careful on the reinstall - made sure to handtighen the plugs first. This eveidently was a bad design all the way around. Why not leave a thicker flange and an open cavity? makes no sense to me. But we have to live with it. What plugs do you plan you use, thespoon?
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 158
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Changing plugs?
Originally posted by thespoon
Tip:
A piece of rubber fuel/vacuum hose that will fit over the tip and the top of the ceramic will hold the plug, to allow threading it into the aluminum head, while not allowing too much torque, preventing cross-threading. After the plug is started, pull off the hose, and insert the socket/extender to finish. Don't forget the anti-seize for the threads!
Tip:
A piece of rubber fuel/vacuum hose that will fit over the tip and the top of the ceramic will hold the plug, to allow threading it into the aluminum head, while not allowing too much torque, preventing cross-threading. After the plug is started, pull off the hose, and insert the socket/extender to finish. Don't forget the anti-seize for the threads!
Rob
Junior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Changing plugs?
It was assumed one has a socket to complete the installation, problem in using the socket is, even with just the extension attached is you can apply enough force to 'start' it cross-threaded. If you use just your index finger and thumb, perhaps not.
YMMV.
A tip for keeping the grommet from coming off on the plug, or worse, the grommet/socket sticking to the plug (getting it back out of that hole is a PIA) is to put a little di-electric grease on the ceramic about 1/4" below the tip.
YMMV.
A tip for keeping the grommet from coming off on the plug, or worse, the grommet/socket sticking to the plug (getting it back out of that hole is a PIA) is to put a little di-electric grease on the ceramic about 1/4" below the tip.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 451
Likes: 5
From: Raleigh, NC.
Ok, so it is now my turn to change plugs on my 2002 V10. Will go with factory plug....not clear on if that is an Autolite or Motorcraft?
What about the gap setting?
Do we need to replace any boots? Thought I read somewhere that was a recommended procedure so that they will not harden on us and leak allowing moisture, etc in for the next 100K? I can't find that discussion anywhere, but know I read about it.
The links here in this post did not work, so maybe that is where the discussion was. Anyone have the new links?
I like the idea/thought of a second blow on the plugs after breaking them free! That is a great idea and I can envision that gunk breaking free after the first turn!
On the new plugs, install with vacuum hose attached to plug to ensure no cross threading and make sure to put antiseize on the threads...just enough on the threads but not too much so that it does not get on electode and cause misfire.
Also, seems you all are saying that we can get to and remove all 10 cops without removing or loosening the fuel rail?
How about the torque setting on the plug?
What about the gap setting?
Do we need to replace any boots? Thought I read somewhere that was a recommended procedure so that they will not harden on us and leak allowing moisture, etc in for the next 100K? I can't find that discussion anywhere, but know I read about it.
The links here in this post did not work, so maybe that is where the discussion was. Anyone have the new links?
I like the idea/thought of a second blow on the plugs after breaking them free! That is a great idea and I can envision that gunk breaking free after the first turn!
On the new plugs, install with vacuum hose attached to plug to ensure no cross threading and make sure to put antiseize on the threads...just enough on the threads but not too much so that it does not get on electode and cause misfire.
Also, seems you all are saying that we can get to and remove all 10 cops without removing or loosening the fuel rail?
How about the torque setting on the plug?
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 451
Likes: 5
From: Raleigh, NC.
Ok, did some research after thinking about the questions. Now I find this one to be more confusing.
One thing in my head is this...if the OEM plug can last 100K, then it is good enough. I have tried better on my old GMC and it never held up, the original always did the best. Bosch never did well in anything other than a engine designed for them and those are not usually something made for American Ignition systems in my past experience including my outboard engine.
So here is what I found on the Advance AutoParts site: 3 to choose from:
I have to wonder what "EXTREME PERFORMANCE" means. I am thinking they are trying to tell us that the OEM plug is the Double Platinum? Anyone confirm the part number?
Part No.AP103 Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Platinum
Gap .054
$2.79
Part No.APP103 Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Double Platinum
OE Style; Gap .054
$3.99
XP103 Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Xtreme Performance
Gap .054
$6.49
One thing in my head is this...if the OEM plug can last 100K, then it is good enough. I have tried better on my old GMC and it never held up, the original always did the best. Bosch never did well in anything other than a engine designed for them and those are not usually something made for American Ignition systems in my past experience including my outboard engine.
So here is what I found on the Advance AutoParts site: 3 to choose from:
I have to wonder what "EXTREME PERFORMANCE" means. I am thinking they are trying to tell us that the OEM plug is the Double Platinum? Anyone confirm the part number?
Part No.AP103 Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Platinum
Gap .054
$2.79
Part No.APP103 Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Double Platinum
OE Style; Gap .054
$3.99
XP103 Autolite Ignition Spark Plug: Xtreme Performance
Gap .054
$6.49
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Joined: Dec 2007
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After reading posts about how much trouble some people were having with their plugs, i decided to pay a garage to change out mine. i went with the bosch platnum II's, with the factory plugs i was getting low 7's for in town mpg after 80,XXX on them, after i switched them out im getting high 8's.
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