Power seat question
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
Thanks Sam,
the floor mount will be somewhat back of the front of the seat mount by 7", so to build the riser with one side intacked may not work. If I built it in two pieces as a rectangle and then leaned it forward the 7" that would limit it to two welds, for the riser. Then a piece across the front at the angle of the seat mount and one across the back for support.
So if I built the rectangle that is 8" high and then bushed it forward the 7" to allow for the seat clearance that should give me a rise of about 4" . Do you think that will be okay for strength? Also I will need to put tabs off the riser to align with the 2 original floor mounting holes, that an issue?
the floor mount will be somewhat back of the front of the seat mount by 7", so to build the riser with one side intacked may not work. If I built it in two pieces as a rectangle and then leaned it forward the 7" that would limit it to two welds, for the riser. Then a piece across the front at the angle of the seat mount and one across the back for support.
So if I built the rectangle that is 8" high and then bushed it forward the 7" to allow for the seat clearance that should give me a rise of about 4" . Do you think that will be okay for strength? Also I will need to put tabs off the riser to align with the 2 original floor mounting holes, that an issue?
Sam
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Stony Plain,AB Canada
Sam, here is a simple diagram of what I mean and the seat pic.....trying to clarify? As you can see these seat mounts are at different heights and not in align with each other, the need for the tabs there and then for the floor mounts as well.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
but what about the height? if u need 4 inches, that flat square ain't gonna cut it. How you mount the seat to the spacer, and how you mount the spacer to the floor are different topics, as your diagram shows.
sam
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
I agree with sam, I'd run a diagonal member inside corner to opposite inside corner in the short direction. The brace could be lighter stock, 1/2 or 3/4" sq tube. Take a look at the last picture in my body mod gallery for a shot of the riser I built.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
sam
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
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From: NM
By "airbag" I think what they are referring to is a switch that turns the Passenger airbag on and off, depending whether there is a weight on the seat cushion. If there were an actual airbag in the seat, there would be a little tag along the upper/outside seatback.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Stony Plain,AB Canada
I looked into your gallery and only saw the base for the seat unless all you raised it was the 1"?
I get the idea about supporting it diagonally, but isn't 1" tubing strong enough???? If I left this slope and then covered it with 16 gauge sheet metal(need to do something to close this in eventually) would that give the additional strength need? Most factory risers I have seen are usually pressed/stamped sheet metal.
<TABLE style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px" class=tborder border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR title="Post 11388672" vAlign=top><TD class=alt2 width=125 align=center>ALBUQ F-1</TD><TD class=alt1>By "airbag" I think what they are referring to is a switch that turns the Passenger airbag on and off, depending whether there is a weight on the seat cushion. If there were an actual airbag in the seat, there would be a little tag along the upper/outside seatback. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
ALBUQ F-1 Yea I think your right on there. I just found the power and ground and taped up the rest after I checked for the heated seats, that I don't have.
Last edited by CdnWillyG; Feb 5, 2012 at 04:35 PM. Reason: change of thinking
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
The risers are blocks under the corners, I only needed a total of 2" at the front, 1 1/2" at the rear. The way the PO installed the seats with blocks under to seat mount the rear inside bolt was thru the gas tank sender inspection cover! The cover is just a circle of sheet metal held in with 3 sheet metal screws. The other 3 were just thru the floor with no doublers.
Now the riser bolts to the seat bottom and into the OEM mounting points.
Now the riser bolts to the seat bottom and into the OEM mounting points.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
First off Axracer, good to have you back!
I get the idea about supporting it diagonally, but isn't 1" tubing strong enough???? If I left this slope and then covered it with 16 gauge sheet metal(need to do something to close this in eventually) would that give the additional strength need? Most factory risers I have seen are usually pressed/stamped sheet metal.<table style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px" class="tborder" border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="1" width="100%" align="center"><tbody><tr title="Post 11388672" valign="top"><td class="alt2" width="125" align="center">
</td><td class="alt1">
</td></tr></tbody></table>
I get the idea about supporting it diagonally, but isn't 1" tubing strong enough???? If I left this slope and then covered it with 16 gauge sheet metal(need to do something to close this in eventually) would that give the additional strength need? Most factory risers I have seen are usually pressed/stamped sheet metal.<table style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px" class="tborder" border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="1" width="100%" align="center"><tbody><tr title="Post 11388672" valign="top"><td class="alt2" width="125" align="center">
</td><td class="alt1">
</td></tr></tbody></table>
The forces in a front end collision would be parallel to the floor and forwards, and likely strong enough to collapse the parallelogram. There would be enough force to bend 1" tubing. Welding say 18 ga sheetmetal to one or both sides would be a membrane reinforcement, and be as good as a diagonal brace. Attaching it with fasteners would not be as effective.
I like to say to myself is this strong enough that I'd park my truck on top of it? If not I reinforce it.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
The risers are blocks under the corners, I only needed a total of 2" at the front, 1 1/2" at the rear. The way the PO installed the seats with blocks under to seat mount the rear inside bolt was thru the gas tank sender inspection cover! The cover is just a circle of sheet metal held in with 3 sheet metal screws. The other 3 were just thru the floor with no doublers.
Now the riser bolts to the seat bottom and into the OEM mounting points.
Now the riser bolts to the seat bottom and into the OEM mounting points.
sam
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