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Power seat question

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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 12:19 PM
  #16  
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Great stuff! I will power the seats to get them in a normal position as they are somewhat in a tilted forward position, then I will get the pics of the bottom of the rails for further advice in mounting ideas.
I will make a trip to the Ford boys and see if they will give me the schematic I need, if not off to the library if I can't find something at the sites mentioned.
Thanks again to all!
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 09:19 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by CdnWillyG
Great stuff! I will power the seats to get them in a normal position as they are somewhat in a tilted forward position, then I will get the pics of the bottom of the rails for further advice in mounting ideas.
I will make a trip to the Ford boys and see if they will give me the schematic I need, if not off to the library if I can't find something at the sites mentioned.
Thanks again to all!
If you can power up your seats to move them, you have solved your own problem just ignore the extra wires unless they are bare.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 11:56 AM
  #18  
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You're right Chuck, just need to determine which is power and if a ground is needed too. If by chance these seats have heat I would love to have that working as well. So today I'll contact the Ford boys as I struck out at both of the sites and library.(almost forgot how to use the library....no help key!)
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 12:02 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 56panelford
I do like your seats and should maybe do some more shopping.
The only reason I went with these is that they were in great shape, powered and the leather color will just about go with any interior with out having them recovered. Plus the $200 I paid for them was inline with my budget.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 12:42 PM
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does your coloring line up with this (supposed pinout of a 2006/2007 Ford Taurus/SHO) seat connector:

 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 12:48 PM
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according to this site the separate yellow connector is an air bag, so I would be super leary about hooking juice up to that one... sorry in the gen 3 that was heated, and leather always came with heated, in gen 4 it looks like there is some mix and match:

Passenger power seat install for gen 4 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum

also a seatbelt pre-tensioner wiring is involved it sounds like, so caution that as well
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 02:51 PM
  #22  
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Just got back from Ford, and all they had were schematics for the 06 Taurus?? But it looks like I have all the info I need.

Bryan, your connections are similar to what I have and really all I need to do is power up the red 490 and grd. bk 57. The connectors are different because the yellow is actually what feeds over to the passenger seat, and the main feeds coming in are 16 pin.
Interesting about the air bag, any idea were they put them because I see no indication on the seat which I thought was manditory?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 06:45 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by CdnWillyG
The only reason I went with these is that they were in great shape, powered and the leather color will just about go with any interior with out having them recovered. Plus the $200 I paid for them was inline with my budget.
I wasn't implying that you should look for other seats. I was thinking I should because the ones you have would be perfect for my panel and save me having the ones I have re-upholstered. I would like tan coloured leather.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 11:23 PM
  #24  
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I've never seen seats with an airbag built in.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 11:25 PM
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I had a couple taurus wagons with the split bench seats. They were extremely comfortable.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 08:30 AM
  #26  
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They seem to be nice in the comfort department but sitting in them for hours will be the real test. I would have gone with a bench seat but because I'm using the T5 from a Mustang with the shifter further back buckets became the choice.
I'm thinking that 23"-25" seat height should be where I set the mid travel for up/down....sound right?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by CdnWillyG
They seem to be nice in the comfort department but sitting in them for hours will be the real test. I would have gone with a bench seat but because I'm using the T5 from a Mustang with the shifter further back buckets became the choice.
I'm thinking that 23"-25" seat height should be where I set the mid travel for up/down....sound right?
without a riser, how far off the ground are the seat bottoms?
I'm 6'2", and need all the leg support I can get..
the stock bench seat height, I think 15 inches from the floor, is a good spot.

we had to raise the bench seat in the green truck as high as it would go,
and make new decorative end panels to cover the brackets.

I find most car style seats are 7-9 inches from the floor, which means there will be a BIG spacer..

Sam
 
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 04:56 PM
  #28  
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I have the seats now moving under power and when at full height the seat cushion is at 11.5". I stuck a 3" cushion on top of that and that felt pretty good. So I'm thinking I will move the seats up about 4" between the floor and seat rails. That should give me an adjustment from 13.5" to 15.5" with the seat movement only.
Now to make the seat risers, what size of material should one use?
I have included some pics for the gurus to help with a design, if they would. For mounting on the floor I was hoping to use at least two of the original mounts for each seat?






 
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 05:35 PM
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I am uncomfortable with bucket seats perched up , so I build a frame for each one.

I would secure the piece that connects to the seat at both ends, one on each side..(orange blobs)

the drawing below is a top view of the frame and a side view..
the top view red lines are on the top edge of the frame, and the black are on the bottom edge.

this frame will keep the seat stable under all the usual conditions and will also give u support for some covering as you complete the interior decoration..

1x1 material should be enough.. I would notch and bend the piece that the seat attaches to, so that at least one edge is uncut. This way you are insured that one edge is not dependent on any single weld.

Sam
 
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 11:59 AM
  #30  
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Thanks Sam,
the floor mount will be somewhat back of the front of the seat mount by 7", so to build the riser with one side intacked may not work. If I built it in two pieces as a rectangle and then leaned it forward the 7" that would limit it to two welds, for the riser. Then a piece across the front at the angle of the seat mount and one across the back for support.
So if I built the rectangle that is 8" high and then bushed it forward the 7" to allow for the seat clearance that should give me a rise of about 4" . Do you think that will be okay for strength? Also I will need to put tabs off the riser to align with the 2 original floor mounting holes, that an issue?
 
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