New to here, but I've found forums helpful on fixing other vehicles... hoping you guys can help me out.

My father has a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited Edition; 8.1L, Gasoline engine

There are a number of problems I think I can fix pretty easily, but I am not completely certain how to get to some of these areas.
Here is the list of obvious problems.


Leak in rear windshield fluid hose. -- Note: The mechanic Dad usually goes to has re-connected it a number of times, but whatever he's doing doesn't stick.

Driver's side overhead light is not working -- This stopped working recently. I'm sure it's just a blown bulb, but I am not sure how to open up the light to replace it. Same with the overhead lights over all of the back seats. I would like to not break my father's truck.

The window controls for the middle row do not work to open or close the windows, however both windows can be opened and closed by the controls at the driver's seat.

The front passenger side window does not work At All. It started out such that the driver's seat controls would work, then they only worked to close it, then it could -only- be controlled by the front passenger door. As of the last few months, that has not worked, either.

None of the automatic locks work. To get into the car, you need a key at either front door, or someone from the front driver's seat has to roll down the back middle window to manually unlock it from the outside.

The gas lift for the rear door does not work

The overhead display does not work. It doesn't even light up.




Mechanics can be expensive, and I would like to fix anything I can on my own before Dad takes the truck back to the mechanic.



Any advice is very welcome, including how to access things and where to find instructions on how to repair/replace parts.


Thank you!!

 

I think you mean the 6.8L gas V10...no such thing as an 8.1L gas engine in an Excursion.

Where is it leaking? We need more info to suggest a solution.

I think you have to pull the overhead console to get to that light (guys, chime in here if I'm wrong). Open the garage door opener door and remove the screw(s), then the rest is held on by clips. Beware that the back has a bracket to prevent it from falling down when you pull the console clips off of the roof. After removing the screw(s) and pulling the console down, you have to slide it forward or back (forward I think) to get it off of that bracket.

Odd that both doors went out. The panel the switches are on can be removed by pulling directly up (pry from the front with a plastic trim removal tool). You can check the switches for functionality with a multi-meter.

Have to search the forum for that...could be the window motor.

So they don't work from the switch or the remote? Fuses come to mind...

Easy fix...check this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10249586

Another easy fix...check this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...erhead+display

A few tips:
1. Use the thread search - nearly all of these questions can be answered, just gotta search the forum.

2. Posting a lot of questions of varying topics in one thread won't get many replies...posting questions individually will get more visibility.

3. See tip #1

 

>> I phrased that badly.. Dad said it was 8.1L and I was specifying that it was gas, not diesel. Dad didn't have any other info for me, and he doesn't have the instruction manual. I will go out and see what I can grab off the vehicle once it's light out.


>> It is leaking in the back luggage area on the passenger side. The fluid just doesn't make it to the window. As far as Mom could explain, it's like the hose/tube/whatever is supposed to connect to another one, and the connection just doesn't stay put. Their mechanic will fix it and it'll work for a very short period and then it goes right back to leaking... and it's not just a little drip. It's a serious enough leak that they can't store things on that side, just in case someone hits the button on accident when trying to just turn on the wipers.


>> I shall check it out as soon as it is light out. I should be able to get the light at any Pep Boys or O'Reilly Auto Parts, right?



>> What is a Multi-meter and where do I find one? Dad said he thought it was the fuse/fuses for the windows, but isn't sure. He also cannot remember if the locks went out at the same time or if one went out first. I do know the front passenger side lock and window (I can't remember if I posted that on here...) went out first... then the window kicked it.



>> I found instructions on replacing a window motor... but is there a way to test the motor first? Or to test the control buttons/connections? Maybe a wire just got loose due to weather? (or squirrels... we had an aunt who had squirrels climb inside of her car, under the hood and stuff, and chew up the wires)



>>Correct. The keyless entry doesn't work, the button code on the driver's side door (for in case you lock your keys in your car) doesn't work and the buttons inside the doors on either the driver's or passenger's side don't work.
I have a question regarding the fuses. I understand the concept, fuse burns out, you replace it. There are different size/kinds of fuses for different things. Do you have to get a very specific fuse for a specific slot? (i.e. if there are two slots that use the same size fuse, can I test it by swapping the blown fuse with one the same size? Or do I need to just buy new fuses?)
And I should be able to get those at O'Reilly, too, I think..



>> Excellent! I shall read those tonight. Thank you

I shall do, on both of those. I don't want to spam up the forum by re-posting all of these questions again, though, unless you think it would be helpful.

I did find a post on here, with pictures, on how to remove and replace the window motor, and another one (sans pics) on how to replace the lock actuator. Forgive me, but what is an 'actuator' in this context?



Thank you again

 

Here is a link to the manual:
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/?li.../01hdwog1e.pdf

Almost sounds like it's clogged up between that fix point and the rear wiper spray nozzles. After it's fixed, does the rear washer actually work, or does it blow apart the first time they try to use it? I know if you put 'tap' water in the washer tank and the water is hard, the residue can clog the nozzles and sensor...that would be my initial guess...but I think some of the guys that have experienced washer tube issues need to chime in.

I doubt Pep Boys/O'Reilly/AuoZone or the like would have the part. Fort part number XU5Z13466A The bulb is integrated into the unit, can't be replaced individually...see this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-question.html

There is also info in there about replacing the incandescent bulbs with LED's if you want.

This is a multi-meter:

Invaluable for working on electrical gremlins...can be purchased for anywhere between $20-$200...you don't need an expensive one for most purposes.

I don't see why not - you should be able to test the switch pins to see if the switch is actually completing the circuit, then test the connector at the window motor - if both work, then the motor is probably gone. If they don't work, then you have either a bad switch or bad wiring between the switch and motor. Check the fuses first though - some are under the steering wheel under the knee panel, others are under the hood up by the driver side hood hinge (check the manual link I put in above for the locations and sizes).

So do you hear any kind of sound when you hit the lock buttons? I ask because some of the actuators are known to go bad due to the resistor inside going out. You can tell this by the lock sounding like it is firing but the lock doesn't engage...mostly found on the rear hatch lock, but all can be affected.

You should (in my opinion) always replace a fuse with the same type of fuse you pulled out. The wiring is made to handle a specific amount of voltage/amps, and the device on the end of the wire also needs a specific size of fuse. Go smaller and you'll blow fuses constantly (the device on the end is asking for more amps than the fuse will allow to pass through)...go bigger and you risk burning out the device on the end, or worse - you can start a fire.

As for testing, the fuses are made in a way you can pull them and visually see if they are blown (the mini, blade, and maxi fuses). They do have larger ones that aren't clear, but check the smaller ones first.

The actuator is the motor assembly that actually moves the lock mechanism. It has a small resistor plate, a small motor and some gears. The actuator problem I mentioned before is that the resistor plate wears out and won't let enough current through it to move the motor, gears and attached rods. The symptom is a 'lazy' lock or the sound of the unit locking but no actual movement. There is a very easy fix that involves removing the actuator, and wrapping tin foil around the resistor inside...this bypasses the actuator safety feature, but unless you have dogs in your truck standing on the lock button for long periods of time or kids messing with the lock buttons all the time, the odds of burning out the motor are slim. Plus, it's a way to extend the life of the actuator while you source out new ones.